Just got into reloading and was wondering if i needed to check the headspace and case length if i am planning to do a full resize on all my cases. Shooting a bolt gun not a semi-auto. Also, i ordered a Lyman .308 headspace gauge and not a case length gauge. do i need both?
Headspace gauge needed if you're doing a full length resize?
- Thread starter glennv
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You don't need those gages or special shell holders.
FL size a case and chamber it in the rifle. If it has a M70 type three position safety then set it so it holds the firing pin back and you can feel how the case fits the chamber.
Only set the FL die down enough so that your bolt closes easily and not more than that.
Measure the case length with a dial caliper you can get at Walmart.
FL size a case and chamber it in the rifle. If it has a M70 type three position safety then set it so it holds the firing pin back and you can feel how the case fits the chamber.
Only set the FL die down enough so that your bolt closes easily and not more than that.
Measure the case length with a dial caliper you can get at Walmart.
Last edited:
jr_roosa
Member
Depends how you "full length resize." I can make my cases much smaller than SAAMI spec if I really crank my sizing die all the way down and really cam it over. If you do this, you may find your brass doesn't last very long.
If you do get a headspace gauge, get the Hornady one that clamps onto your calipers and lets you get an actual number for how much you are sizing. Then you can actually get an idea of the difference between factory ammo, fire-formed brass from your rifle, and maximally resized brass from your die. You'll also find that your die may need a little tweaking with each batch to keep things the same length as brass hardens or when you size different brands of brass.
-J.
If you do get a headspace gauge, get the Hornady one that clamps onto your calipers and lets you get an actual number for how much you are sizing. Then you can actually get an idea of the difference between factory ammo, fire-formed brass from your rifle, and maximally resized brass from your die. You'll also find that your die may need a little tweaking with each batch to keep things the same length as brass hardens or when you size different brands of brass.
-J.
thump_rrr
Member
I personally like purchasing a case gauge for each rifle caliber that I reload for.
It allows me to quickly check my brass and verify that it is within spec for both headspace and trim length.
I prefer using the Hornady headspace gauge for my precision rifle rounds.
It allows me to quickly check my brass and verify that it is within spec for both headspace and trim length.
I prefer using the Hornady headspace gauge for my precision rifle rounds.
I do not know about the Lyman, but the Wilson gauge checks both headspace and case length.
You should own a set of calipers, as posted, and that is the best way to check case length and a myriad of other things. It will be money well spent and you will use it a lot in reloading.
Using a headspace gauge is a great way to make sure you are not over sizing and that your ammo will fit any proper chamber. I use a Wilson for .223 and .30-06 that will be used in autos.
On some ammo for bolt guns, and even my .300 BLK plinking ammo, I use a gauge and calipers to measure how far I move the shoulder back to help with case life.
That said, I am getting 8 to 10 and sometimes more firings in autos with .223 brass sized to fit the gauge.
Lots of ways to do it, some cheap, some not so cheap. Some folks just screw the die down to touch the shell holder and 99% of the time this works and is safe. I certainly did it that way starting out.
You should own a set of calipers, as posted, and that is the best way to check case length and a myriad of other things. It will be money well spent and you will use it a lot in reloading.
Using a headspace gauge is a great way to make sure you are not over sizing and that your ammo will fit any proper chamber. I use a Wilson for .223 and .30-06 that will be used in autos.
On some ammo for bolt guns, and even my .300 BLK plinking ammo, I use a gauge and calipers to measure how far I move the shoulder back to help with case life.
That said, I am getting 8 to 10 and sometimes more firings in autos with .223 brass sized to fit the gauge.
Lots of ways to do it, some cheap, some not so cheap. Some folks just screw the die down to touch the shell holder and 99% of the time this works and is safe. I certainly did it that way starting out.
“I ordered a Lyman .308 headspace gauge and not a case length gauge. do I need both?”
No, the question could be “What are you going to do with the head space gage?” We all know the bolt will close on the head space gage, it is not likely most can tell by ‘how much’.
If you had purchased both you could use the head space gage as a standard to test the case length gage, that would require a straight edge and a feeler gage or a height gage etc.. OR, a flat surface and a feeler gage, or a set-up table and a feeler gage.
Then there is always the possibility to check the ability of the full length sizer die to return a case to minimum length/full length sizer. Simply drop the head space gage into the full length sizer die, install the shell holder then measure the gap between the bottom of the die and and top of the shell holder, the difference in length between the two should equal the difference in length between the chamber (head space from the datum/shoulder to the bolt face) and length of the case from the datum/shoulder to the head of the case, with the neck sizer ball primer punch assemble removed.
The above makes the head space gage a standard, it makes the head space gage a transfer, the head space gage also qualifies as a verifier?
Case length gage: You/we see pictures of cases sitting in the case gage with some kind if a narrative, always, it is ‘SEE’, I have to take their word for for what I am seeing, again, I use a straight edge and a feeler gage or a a flat surface and a feeler gage.
The head space gage is coveted, I am the fan of getting all the use I can out of every tool, we can use the head space gage or we can talk about owning one.
You ordered: I would suggest you purchase a forming die for the 308W, my favorite, Forming die when compared to the head space gage, the head space gage comes in three lengths, go, no and beyond, with the 308 W forming die a reloader can form 389 different length cases when forming 308 W from 30/06 cases, the different lengths cover 7.7 Japanese, 8mm57, 7mm57, 257 Roberts, 7.65mm53/BM Mauser, etc., etc.. When I want to determine the length of a 308 W chamber I form cases in different lengths with the forming die then size the formed cases with the full length sizer die, with a difference, the full length sizer die has stamped on the top of the die F.L., Just because the die is stamped full length sizer dies not mean I am required to full length size, again, my dies and press have threads, the threads make my presses and dies adjustable, rather than make wild guestimates when adjusting my die to the shell holder I use the feeler gage. Form the case with the forming die off the shell holder .010” then full length size the cases with the same adjustment of .010” gap, if after sizing the case will not chamber, reduce the gap, continue until the bolt closes, no where on the case that was formed then sized it it written the case must be used for any other purpose than to determine the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face in thousandths if the reloader can measure the length of the case from the shoulder back to the head of the case.
I can get more use out of a forming die than a reloader can get out of a head space gage and a case length gage, owning the tool is one thing, knowing how to use it is another.
F. Guffey
No, the question could be “What are you going to do with the head space gage?” We all know the bolt will close on the head space gage, it is not likely most can tell by ‘how much’.
If you had purchased both you could use the head space gage as a standard to test the case length gage, that would require a straight edge and a feeler gage or a height gage etc.. OR, a flat surface and a feeler gage, or a set-up table and a feeler gage.
Then there is always the possibility to check the ability of the full length sizer die to return a case to minimum length/full length sizer. Simply drop the head space gage into the full length sizer die, install the shell holder then measure the gap between the bottom of the die and and top of the shell holder, the difference in length between the two should equal the difference in length between the chamber (head space from the datum/shoulder to the bolt face) and length of the case from the datum/shoulder to the head of the case, with the neck sizer ball primer punch assemble removed.
The above makes the head space gage a standard, it makes the head space gage a transfer, the head space gage also qualifies as a verifier?
Case length gage: You/we see pictures of cases sitting in the case gage with some kind if a narrative, always, it is ‘SEE’, I have to take their word for for what I am seeing, again, I use a straight edge and a feeler gage or a a flat surface and a feeler gage.
The head space gage is coveted, I am the fan of getting all the use I can out of every tool, we can use the head space gage or we can talk about owning one.
You ordered: I would suggest you purchase a forming die for the 308W, my favorite, Forming die when compared to the head space gage, the head space gage comes in three lengths, go, no and beyond, with the 308 W forming die a reloader can form 389 different length cases when forming 308 W from 30/06 cases, the different lengths cover 7.7 Japanese, 8mm57, 7mm57, 257 Roberts, 7.65mm53/BM Mauser, etc., etc.. When I want to determine the length of a 308 W chamber I form cases in different lengths with the forming die then size the formed cases with the full length sizer die, with a difference, the full length sizer die has stamped on the top of the die F.L., Just because the die is stamped full length sizer dies not mean I am required to full length size, again, my dies and press have threads, the threads make my presses and dies adjustable, rather than make wild guestimates when adjusting my die to the shell holder I use the feeler gage. Form the case with the forming die off the shell holder .010” then full length size the cases with the same adjustment of .010” gap, if after sizing the case will not chamber, reduce the gap, continue until the bolt closes, no where on the case that was formed then sized it it written the case must be used for any other purpose than to determine the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face in thousandths if the reloader can measure the length of the case from the shoulder back to the head of the case.
I can get more use out of a forming die than a reloader can get out of a head space gage and a case length gage, owning the tool is one thing, knowing how to use it is another.
F. Guffey
Quote "Just got into reloading and was wondering if i needed to check the headspace and case length if i am planning to do a full resize on all my cases. Shooting a bolt gun not a semi-auto. Also, i ordered a Lyman .308 headspace gauge and not a case length gauge. do i need both?"
If you have made a decision to full-length (FL) resize, the answer is no! In fact if you are going to FL resize you need neither! Die sets are made to FL resize (assuming you follow the directions that come with the set or are found in any good manual) and nothing further is needed to produce good reliable ammunition. If however you are going to fit your cases to your particular action (which will extend case life) read and heed the excellent advice provided in the above posts.
Beyond that, the case length gauge will be needed to check to see if cases need trimming after firing.
If you have made a decision to full-length (FL) resize, the answer is no! In fact if you are going to FL resize you need neither! Die sets are made to FL resize (assuming you follow the directions that come with the set or are found in any good manual) and nothing further is needed to produce good reliable ammunition. If however you are going to fit your cases to your particular action (which will extend case life) read and heed the excellent advice provided in the above posts.
Beyond that, the case length gauge will be needed to check to see if cases need trimming after firing.
aka108
Member
I set my8 FL sizing die just about the thickness of a dime from touching the shell holder. Whatever it does, all the reloads work in any of 4 M1 Garands and some cases have over 20 loadings and are still going strong.
Brickeye,
“Case length gauge maybe, actual headspace gauge?”
Glenny responds with:
“Thanks guys. I ran a few dummy rounds and they fit my chamber just fine but I'll check them with the gauge when it comes”
Glenny could be a victim of mislabeled tools, I read through Lyman's instruction to the proud new owner (written by a very lazy writer), bottom line goes something like: ‘If your case does not agree with out gage destroy the case....immediately’.
I have always thought it was the user of the tool that did not understand L. E. Wilson concept of a a gage based on the datum, I can only guess there are many that skipped the kinder garden school for machinist, that is where they are supposed to get a good understanding of ‘from and to’. Most believe the L.E. Wilson case length is a one ended gage, and that can not be.
F. Guffey
“Case length gauge maybe, actual headspace gauge?”
Glenny responds with:
“Thanks guys. I ran a few dummy rounds and they fit my chamber just fine but I'll check them with the gauge when it comes”
Glenny could be a victim of mislabeled tools, I read through Lyman's instruction to the proud new owner (written by a very lazy writer), bottom line goes something like: ‘If your case does not agree with out gage destroy the case....immediately’.
I have always thought it was the user of the tool that did not understand L. E. Wilson concept of a a gage based on the datum, I can only guess there are many that skipped the kinder garden school for machinist, that is where they are supposed to get a good understanding of ‘from and to’. Most believe the L.E. Wilson case length is a one ended gage, and that can not be.
F. Guffey
LeonCarr
Member
You can use the Wilson/Lyman drop in type Case Gauge to measure how much you are sizing the case, and use it to determine if you are full length resizing, neck sizing, or doing a body/shoulder bump sizing.
Take a case fired in your rifle and drop it in the gauge. Take your dial caliper and put one end of the gauge on one caliper blade, the end of the gauge with the case sticking out on the other caliper blade, and measure the overal length. If you want to bump the shoulder of the case back .001, back out the sizing die until it is only sizing the neck of the case, and screw in the die into the press 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn at a time, measuring the case in the gauge with the caliper each time, when the overall legnth of the case/gauge combination is .001 shorter, BOOYA you have bumped the shoulder back .001.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
Take a case fired in your rifle and drop it in the gauge. Take your dial caliper and put one end of the gauge on one caliper blade, the end of the gauge with the case sticking out on the other caliper blade, and measure the overal length. If you want to bump the shoulder of the case back .001, back out the sizing die until it is only sizing the neck of the case, and screw in the die into the press 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn at a time, measuring the case in the gauge with the caliper each time, when the overall legnth of the case/gauge combination is .001 shorter, BOOYA you have bumped the shoulder back .001.
Just my .02,
LeonCarr
The thickness of a dime? I can only guess these numbers are only guesses by those that do not have a micrometer, it is published to the Internet the thickness of a time is .045” or .047” or .057”, There is nothing I do when adjusting the die to and or off the shell holder that calls for a gap of from .045” to .057”, I have one chamber I load for that has a field reject length chamber + .002”, I adjust the die off the shell holder .014” when sizing and or forming cases for that chamber, my best source for cases is the 280 Remington, it is field reject 30/06 length + .037”. It is a ‘can not miss to fit’.
F. Guffey
F. Guffey
Is your headspace gage a Go gage, a No Go gage or a Field gage?
“Is your headspace gage a Go gage, a No Go gage or a Field gage?”
I have gages that are from minimum length/full length size to .012” shorter than a minimum length meaning I have gages that measures the length of a short chamber, I have gages that start .001” longer than a minimum length case and go up to .016” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, that is 28 different lengths.
The go-gage is .005” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, the no go-gage is .009” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case and the field reject gage is .014” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case. POINT? I determine the length of the chamber in thousandths, knowing the go-gage will allow the bolt to close is less than nice to know, I want to know the length of the chamber in thousandths.
I can adjust the length of the case to off set the length of the chamber, to adjust the length of the chamber one needs a rifle that has a barrel secured to the receiver with a barrel nut.
Problem, moving the barrel out from the receiver makes the chamber longer if the chamber has been cut.
F. Guffey
“Is your headspace gage a Go gage, a No Go gage or a Field gage?”
I have gages that are from minimum length/full length size to .012” shorter than a minimum length meaning I have gages that measures the length of a short chamber, I have gages that start .001” longer than a minimum length case and go up to .016” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, that is 28 different lengths.
The go-gage is .005” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, the no go-gage is .009” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case and the field reject gage is .014” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case. POINT? I determine the length of the chamber in thousandths, knowing the go-gage will allow the bolt to close is less than nice to know, I want to know the length of the chamber in thousandths.
I can adjust the length of the case to off set the length of the chamber, to adjust the length of the chamber one needs a rifle that has a barrel secured to the receiver with a barrel nut.
Problem, moving the barrel out from the receiver makes the chamber longer if the chamber has been cut.
F. Guffey
Headspace gauges are used to check chamber size, NOT brass size.
Unless you manage to set back locking lugs on an action (or unscrew the barrel) the headspace was forever set by the factory wen they manufactured the rifle.
From the bolt face to a datum point on the shoulder (for bottle necked cases).
Their are case comparators (like Wilson and others) that check brass for max and min size compared to defined headspace for the cartridge (most only check shoulder to head, NOT diameter).
There are case gauges that let you actually measure case head to shoulder dimensions.
These can be useful to ensure you ARE setting back the shoulder (and the diameter) when sizing to ensure the round will fit in your chamber.
'Full length' sizing indicates reducing the case dimensions to the minimum length and diameter so the round should fit ANY gun of the same cartridge type.
It means the brass will be stretched every time you fire and reload, often leading to short brass life when the head separates from the case body.
If our rifle's actual headspace is on the tight end (shorter chamber length) stretch might no be that bad.
If on the lose end (longer chamber length) it may only take a couple reloadings to fail.
Some military cartridges and guns are known for having 'generous' (oversize) chambers and reloading life on these is often short.
The length gauges allow you to measure a fired cartridge, then size it, then measure how far you have pushed the shoulder back.
For bolt guns you may be able to have almost zero should push back and still chamber the round.
For actions with less ability to ram a cartridge into the chamber, you may need a few thousandths of clearance between the shoulder and chamber.
Remember the case is also tapered, so when you move the shoulder back the diameter goes down in bottle necked rifle cases.
In many rifles accuracy improves when the loaded case is closer to chamber size.
This and longer case life are reasons to only move the shoulder (and diameter) as little as possible.
Unless you manage to set back locking lugs on an action (or unscrew the barrel) the headspace was forever set by the factory wen they manufactured the rifle.
From the bolt face to a datum point on the shoulder (for bottle necked cases).
Their are case comparators (like Wilson and others) that check brass for max and min size compared to defined headspace for the cartridge (most only check shoulder to head, NOT diameter).
There are case gauges that let you actually measure case head to shoulder dimensions.
These can be useful to ensure you ARE setting back the shoulder (and the diameter) when sizing to ensure the round will fit in your chamber.
'Full length' sizing indicates reducing the case dimensions to the minimum length and diameter so the round should fit ANY gun of the same cartridge type.
It means the brass will be stretched every time you fire and reload, often leading to short brass life when the head separates from the case body.
If our rifle's actual headspace is on the tight end (shorter chamber length) stretch might no be that bad.
If on the lose end (longer chamber length) it may only take a couple reloadings to fail.
Some military cartridges and guns are known for having 'generous' (oversize) chambers and reloading life on these is often short.
The length gauges allow you to measure a fired cartridge, then size it, then measure how far you have pushed the shoulder back.
For bolt guns you may be able to have almost zero should push back and still chamber the round.
For actions with less ability to ram a cartridge into the chamber, you may need a few thousandths of clearance between the shoulder and chamber.
Remember the case is also tapered, so when you move the shoulder back the diameter goes down in bottle necked rifle cases.
In many rifles accuracy improves when the loaded case is closer to chamber size.
This and longer case life are reasons to only move the shoulder (and diameter) as little as possible.
Rangemaster
Member
I only full length resize if the following
1) Used fired brass not from my rifle
2) My fired brass no longer fits my drop in case guage
3) Brass was dented or damage after shot
4) Brass gets mixed up and doesn't have a black sharpie marking across the primer showing this is my brass
1) Used fired brass not from my rifle
2) My fired brass no longer fits my drop in case guage
3) Brass was dented or damage after shot
4) Brass gets mixed up and doesn't have a black sharpie marking across the primer showing this is my brass
I have a Redding Competition Shellholder set and adjust the sizing die to slightly cam over the +.010" shellholder. The bolt won't close on that case. So I do the same thing with the +.008" shellholder. The bolt closes on that case with resistance. I know this shellholder gives me zero clearance. So I bust out the +.006" shellholder knowing it will give me .002" of headspace. Perfect. Easy.
Elkins45
Member
The best gauge for your resized cases is the chamber of the rifle you will be shooting them in. You'll want to keep from making your cases too short (by pushing the shoulder back) because short cases have to stretch to fill the chamber every time they're fired. That can cause head separation after just a few firings.
The best method is to start with the die screwed out a few turns from where it contacts the shell holder. Take a candle and blacken the case neck with soot. Size the case and see how far back the sizing actually happens on the neck. Adjust it until the sizing make extends to near the bottom of the neck but hasn't touched the shoulder at all. Your goal is to resize the case without moving the shoulder back at all. Once you have established the correct sizing length you can lock down the adjustment ring and this will always be the correct setting for that particular rifle.
The best method is to start with the die screwed out a few turns from where it contacts the shell holder. Take a candle and blacken the case neck with soot. Size the case and see how far back the sizing actually happens on the neck. Adjust it until the sizing make extends to near the bottom of the neck but hasn't touched the shoulder at all. Your goal is to resize the case without moving the shoulder back at all. Once you have established the correct sizing length you can lock down the adjustment ring and this will always be the correct setting for that particular rifle.
918V, I have one set of Redding competition shell holders, I had the opportunity to purchase the set for $5.00 at a gun show in Mesquite, TX, I opened the package to check the deck height, 3 were off by .001” each, I could have contacted Redding but correcting the deck height of a shell holder is something I did before Redding offered competition shell holders.
Cost $$$ ? $40.00 a set + shipping, taxes etc., for adding shell holders for each shell holder used is an investment.
Back to before Redding made competition shell holders, nothing changed for me, I used a feeler gage to adjust the die off the shell holder, again, I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring, and again, I have a chamber that is longer than a minimum length/full length sized case by .016”, I could purchase a Redding .010+” shell holder then adjust the die off the shell holder with a feeler gage, or I could go straight to the feeler gage and make the adjustment.
Forming dies: My favorite forming dies are the short ones, like the 308 W and 243 W, for magnums there is the 350 Remington Mag forming die, to replace the feeler gage with Redding shell holders when forming cases would require 124++++++ Redding competition shell holders just for magnums.
F. Guffey
Cost $$$ ? $40.00 a set + shipping, taxes etc., for adding shell holders for each shell holder used is an investment.
Back to before Redding made competition shell holders, nothing changed for me, I used a feeler gage to adjust the die off the shell holder, again, I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring, and again, I have a chamber that is longer than a minimum length/full length sized case by .016”, I could purchase a Redding .010+” shell holder then adjust the die off the shell holder with a feeler gage, or I could go straight to the feeler gage and make the adjustment.
Forming dies: My favorite forming dies are the short ones, like the 308 W and 243 W, for magnums there is the 350 Remington Mag forming die, to replace the feeler gage with Redding shell holders when forming cases would require 124++++++ Redding competition shell holders just for magnums.
F. Guffey
Elkins,
The best method?: I go to the firing range for the same reason shooters go to the range, to shoot. Difference? Before I leave I purchase fired brass, after purchasing the fired brass I match the fired brass to case length from the shoulder to the head of the case, cases fired in very nice chambers become ‘just another case that was fired in a nice chamber’, cases that are long between the shoulder and the head of the case become my favorite cases. Any and everyone can purchase new, minimum length, unfired cases that will chamber, it is not easy to find cases that require “FITTING”. I fit my cases to chamber, after I fit the case to the chamber I am under no obligation to load and fire that fitted case, option? After fitting/sizing the case I can save the case and other cases that failed to fit for the next chamber, after all anyone that can fit a case to a chamber can measure the length of the case from the shoulder/datum to the head of the case (that is not a yes and or no question).
I disagree with “THE best method”, there are other methods and or techniques, I have little interest in finding ways for a reloader to spend the most money, I am interested in methods and or techniques that save money and time. TIME? By the time someone orders the/a tool, I am finished.
F. Guffey
The best method?: I go to the firing range for the same reason shooters go to the range, to shoot. Difference? Before I leave I purchase fired brass, after purchasing the fired brass I match the fired brass to case length from the shoulder to the head of the case, cases fired in very nice chambers become ‘just another case that was fired in a nice chamber’, cases that are long between the shoulder and the head of the case become my favorite cases. Any and everyone can purchase new, minimum length, unfired cases that will chamber, it is not easy to find cases that require “FITTING”. I fit my cases to chamber, after I fit the case to the chamber I am under no obligation to load and fire that fitted case, option? After fitting/sizing the case I can save the case and other cases that failed to fit for the next chamber, after all anyone that can fit a case to a chamber can measure the length of the case from the shoulder/datum to the head of the case (that is not a yes and or no question).
I disagree with “THE best method”, there are other methods and or techniques, I have little interest in finding ways for a reloader to spend the most money, I am interested in methods and or techniques that save money and time. TIME? By the time someone orders the/a tool, I am finished.
F. Guffey
Elkins45
Member
I had to read this three times to understand what you are saying.
I didn't advocate buying any sort of tools. I advocated a free technique that insures the OP doesn't set back case necks and induce excessive headspace in an otherwise perfectly fireformed case.
What you are talking about only works when loading for multiple rifles. My impression from the original question is that this guy has one gun he is loading for. Segregating cases and waiting to find a chamber that fits does him no good.
The method I advocated is widely used and almost universally advocated by a number of sources. It's 100% effective and 100% free. It may not be best by every measure, but free and effective are two pretty good features in my opinion.
"...but free and effective are two pretty good features in my opinion"
forgive, I thought you started out saying "The best method" I agree with effective and pretty good features, and, thanks for the extra effort, you are under no obligation to make any attempt to understand, I place no demand on anyone to make the attempt.
F. Guffey
forgive, I thought you started out saying "The best method" I agree with effective and pretty good features, and, thanks for the extra effort, you are under no obligation to make any attempt to understand, I place no demand on anyone to make the attempt.
F. Guffey
Elkins45
Member
I did say "best method" but you are supposed to read what I meant rather than what I said
I was defining "best" as meaning he could get the results he wanted without buying anything. To change the subject back to the original just a bit, the OP mentions buying a Lyman headspace gauge. I wasn't aware Lyman made such a thing? I thought headspace gauge was the thing a gunsmith inserts into the chamber to see if the bolt will/won't close. A headspace gauge measures the space inside the gun, not the dimensions of the case.
Doesn't Lyman make case length gauges?
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