Hella blades sans handles

[fisherman66]

http://www.darktimberdesign.com/helleknife/

After reading another post I came across this site. I've marveled over the Hella knifes, but found them just above the price point I was willing to pay. Well appearently the blades are not the most expensive part of the manufacturing process. At about 1/4 the cost of a finished product I can purchase the blades and make a handle. I enjoy that kind of work, as it becomes a semi-custom product that has my personal touch involved in.

Can I assume the blades are already heat treated?

How do most people go about making the handle? I've thought of bone, leather washers or wood handle, but I am not opposed to a synthetic handle.

Can anyone direct me to a web site that offers a primer in seating the knife in the handle?

Thank for the help.

 

[hso]

The blades will be heat treated and ready to mount.

Since they're all stick tangs you can use any material you want and epoxy fill the void. Some guys use JB Weld. You'll want to make sure that the shoulders of the tang are square so that you can get a good fit on the guard.

 

[fisherman66]

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

 

[Valkman]

I see they're also sharpened - be very careful with that. I never work on sharpened knives, leaving that for the very last step.

Great handle materials are Micarta, G10 and stabilized wood. I just used some giraffe bone too and it's beautiful but cost like $75 for scales.

Try these links for info:

http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html

http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm

http://www.blades.web.za/

 

[fisherman66]

Thank you.

I've been searching for a primer and came across one that advises to use making tape to cover the blade during attaching the handle and/or the guard.

I wish I had a lathe.

 

[Valkman]

It's always a good idea to cover the blade, but if it's sharp make sure the edge can't come through. I use a buffer on handles and shudder to think of it flying off with a sharp edge!

I rough shape handles on the grinder then get to sanding by hand - a Dremel with sanding drums can really help alot. After that I'll buff it which really brings out the scratches that are still there, then back to sanding. If a material is really hard (snakewood) or really soft (Buckeye Burl) then it's tough to get it just right. When all the scratches are out and it's just the way I want it I buff it with white compound. I'm getting a sand blaster so some handles like Micarta will get blasted and stay grippy.

 

[fisherman66]

Don,

You do great work. I like the burl'ed handle knife the best.

 

[Valkman]

Thanks - feel free to ask any questions you want here, or by email or PM. Putting a handle on isn't that difficult but it must be done right.

That knife on my site went to our own Cacique500 who sent me the wood for it. He helped me alot when I first started and when I told him I was going to make him a knife he sent me that 400-year old Birdseye Maple. Beautiful stuff!