I recently purchased a Smith and Wesson Model 66-2 with a 4-inch barrel. When measured with a Lyman digital trigger gauge I have an average double action pull of just over 4 pounds and a single action pull of about 8 ounces. The issue is that when cocked, forward pressure on the back of the hammer of about 2 pounds will cause the hammer to fall. The general consensus of the people who have handled it is that either some work was done to lighten the trigger or there is something damaged internally. If I knew what had to be replaced or modified, I could probably do it myself with the help of a video. However, I am not as confident in my ability to diagnose the problem. What would be the most likely components that were damaged, replaced or modified to result in this issue? I like the 4-pound double action pull and could live with the 8-ounce single action pull but would prefer if it were a little heavier. I do have concerns about the fact that I can just push the hammer forward. Thanks
Help with a Smith and Wesson Model 66-2 issue.
- Thread starter Zelwood
- Start date
Way too light on both SA and DA.
First I would say chopped springs. However the fact fact you can push the hammer forward indicates to me the hammer and sear have been over modified.
You can have a 8-10 lb DA. Forget 4 lb. I'm betting you will find in its present state the gun lacks reliability.
You can have 2 or 3 things in a revolver trigger,
Reliability, smoothness, light trigger
I always go for reliability and smoothness. You can overcome a heavy trigger by building up the muscles in your fingers and hands.
Hammers and sears have to be fitted. Not sure if your parts can be salvaged. Hope you got it for a bargain price as you may have to put some money into it.
First I would say chopped springs. However the fact fact you can push the hammer forward indicates to me the hammer and sear have been over modified.
You can have a 8-10 lb DA. Forget 4 lb. I'm betting you will find in its present state the gun lacks reliability.
You can have 2 or 3 things in a revolver trigger,
Reliability, smoothness, light trigger
I always go for reliability and smoothness. You can overcome a heavy trigger by building up the muscles in your fingers and hands.
Hammers and sears have to be fitted. Not sure if your parts can be salvaged. Hope you got it for a bargain price as you may have to put some money into it.
.38 Special
Member
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- Sep 15, 2006
- Messages
- 7,377
Jim Watson
Member
Have you actually shot it? A 4 lb DA is not likely to fire.
The first thing I would do is to put in a fresh mainspring and rebound spring.
I am pretty sure it will fire so the key is whether it will push off.
If it will not, great you are fixed.
If it still will, there are three options.
1. See if there is a gunsmith who will sharpen the sear enagagement.
2. Have the hammer and/or trigger replaced.
3. Remove the full cock and render it DAO.
The first thing I would do is to put in a fresh mainspring and rebound spring.
I am pretty sure it will fire so the key is whether it will push off.
If it will not, great you are fixed.
If it still will, there are three options.
1. See if there is a gunsmith who will sharpen the sear enagagement.
2. Have the hammer and/or trigger replaced.
3. Remove the full cock and render it DAO.
Simple stuff 1st. There is an adjustment screw on the backstrap. You'll have to remove the grips to see it. A previous owner may have loosened that screw in an attempt to adjust the trigger. It might be as simple as just tightening that screw.
And if I'm insulting your intelligence, I apologize in advance, but I've learned to assume nothing.
And if I'm insulting your intelligence, I apologize in advance, but I've learned to assume nothing.
See this article/post: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/76618-its-a-strain-screw-not-an-adjustment-screw/
You MIGHT get lucky with a drop in hammer replacement, but if that isn't the only thing a previous owner was modifying it's a waste of time. A trip back to S&W for repair is money well spent. As said, check the strain screw, and then replace the mainspring with something factory and see if the problem persists.
I thought I was getting a deal on a used S&W Model 67 but the timing was bad and it was striking all over the rim. A quick trip the factory for a reasonable repair and it remains one of my favorites. Your 66-2 is a fantastic revolver if treated well.
I thought I was getting a deal on a used S&W Model 67 but the timing was bad and it was striking all over the rim. A quick trip the factory for a reasonable repair and it remains one of my favorites. Your 66-2 is a fantastic revolver if treated well.
The fact that the hammer can be pushed off leads me to believe it's not just the strain screw.
gwpercle
Member
If tightening up the main spring screw or relacing the springs doesn't "fix" it ... take or send it to a good gunsmith . Triggers and hammers must be fitted and if you don't have the jig's , tools and knowledge you will just bugger up the notches and fitting . If the repair requires more than a spring swap ...
... Seek Professional Help !
If mine , I would take it to Clark Custom Guns which is a short day trip drive North East of where I live , them boys can do magic on a S&W trigger !
Gary
... Seek Professional Help !
If mine , I would take it to Clark Custom Guns which is a short day trip drive North East of where I live , them boys can do magic on a S&W trigger !
Gary
Poper
Member
If it was mine, I would not hesitate to send it to S&W. It is inexpensive insurance to have the people that know it best repair it.
Taurus 617 CCW
Member
Your revolver fails what is called the push off test. That means the sear engagement has a negative angle and slips off. The push off test only requires about 1.5 lbs to check. It is most likely not the springs but the hammer and trigger interface on the single action shelf (which should never be touched). Take it in to a gunsmith in your town for verification before moving forward with any repairs.
It is clear that someone has messed with that revolver. I doubt that 4# willI reliably detonate primers, and the push-off failure makes it unsafe.
I have had good service from S&W , aka The Mother Ship. However, the trigger weight will be stock when they are done with it, so be prepared for a change.
If you want a trigger that is moderately light and butter smooth, look up Ahlman’s in Minnesota. They do fabulous work.
A 66 is worth the effort you need to put into it.
I have had good service from S&W , aka The Mother Ship. However, the trigger weight will be stock when they are done with it, so be prepared for a change.
If you want a trigger that is moderately light and butter smooth, look up Ahlman’s in Minnesota. They do fabulous work.
A 66 is worth the effort you need to put into it.
lemaymiami
Member
From my own history, I can remember more than one part time, partially skilled, gunsmith on my own Department back in the seventies when most agencies still carried revolvers. Just guessing but that left too much room for work that should never have been attempted on the sidearms we carried…. Like others I’d vote for a return to the factory to bring that weapon back within specs- unless you can find a really competent gunsmith locally that does good work…
Another vote for finding a good gunsmith or sending it to the factory. But if you're feeling adventurous:
www.americangunsmith.com
www.gunpartscorp.com
AGI Armorer's Course for Smith & Wesson Revolvers - The American Gunsmithing Institute
Bob Dunlap understands the design, function, and repair of Horace Smith and Daniel Wessons masterpiece, the modern cartridge revolver, as well or better than anyone else alive does today. If you want the quick course on how to get the Worlds Most Popular Revolver apart, back together, and...
www.americangunsmith.com
Smith & Wesson Model 66-2 Revolver Parts | Numrich
Get your S&W Model 66-2 parts, accessories and schematics with Numrich Gun Parts. Providing revolver parts since 1950.
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UncleEd
Member
I'm betting just the trigger return spring needs to be replaced
and the hammer spring strain screw tightened or a new screw
that is longer is needed.
If the hammer/trigger were messed with, I doubt S&W has the
parts any more to fix it.
Bur all good advice has been given.
and the hammer spring strain screw tightened or a new screw
that is longer is needed.
If the hammer/trigger were messed with, I doubt S&W has the
parts any more to fix it.
Bur all good advice has been given.
Bigdog357
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2020
- Messages
- 143
I also bought a 66-2 that had the push off problem and a hair trigger. I replaced the sear and that didn't solve the problem. Then I replaced the hammer and that eliminated the push off issue. I ended up with a DA at 6lb and single at 1.9lbs. Keep in mind I am not a Gun Smith and had never been inside the workings of a revolver before. I watched a couple YouTube video's and dove into the deep end of the pool. The sear did take some minor fitting, go slow, take off a little material at a time. Bottom line is it's not that hard to fit and replace parts. I eliminated a unsafe condition and it shoots fantastic now.
Thank you to everyone who has responded, There's a lot of good information there. To answer several of your questions, no, I haven't tried to fire it yet and I think I got a decent price on it. I paid $650, I have seen them go upwards of $1000.
bangswitch
Member
This ^^^ is the problem. It's one of the things you check when buying a used gun. The hammer should be replaced, the sear notch has been worked on to decrease the pressure required to break it and allow the hammer to fall. Certainly, also make sure the strain screw is all the way in and tight.
That looks like a dash-1 and not a dash-2. It has a pinned barrel and it also looks to be a recessed cylinder (very little clearance between cylinder and recoil shield). Both those features were dropped in the dash-2 series. However, the small S&W logo roll stamp should also be on the right side and larger on a dash-1 and the stocks should have a speedloader cut instead of the football, so you may have a "transitional" gun, meaning it's at the end of one series, or the beginning of the next and has features (or lack) of both series. That's a very nice M66, regardless, and looks brand new.
Bigdog357
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2020
- Messages
- 143
Ha, you are correct my computer file was mis-labeled, it is a -1 and the cylinder is recessed.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Absolutely.
How tight the strain screw is will have nothing to do with the hammer falling.
Every firearm I buy one of the tests I do is cock the hammer and push really hard against the hammer. Not two pounds, really hard.
The hammer should NEVER fall, no matter how hard it is pushed.
Damage to either the full cock notch on the hammer, or the sear, perhaps both.
Probably done by an armchair gunsmith who did not know what he was doing.
The parts probably need to be replaced.
For what it's worth, the strain screw should always be tightened all the way, backing it out is asking for light primer hits.
GooseGestapo
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2003
- Messages
- 6,154
A knowledgeable gunsmith can fix it in about 10minutes.
I shot PPC for 30+yrs so dealing with lock work on S&W’s was an on going affair.
A replacement rebound spring and light stoning and facing of the single action sear on the hammer is what it needs.
Not major surgery!
Sending it back to S&W might be a bottomless rabbit hole! They no longer have parts for the older guns, and might even keep your gun and give you a voucher towards purchase of a NEW gun. Likely for FAR less than your gun is worth on open market.
They no longer honor the “Lifetime warranty” of older firearms.
Only if I had a problem with a recent manufacture gun would I send it back to S&W.
I shot PPC for 30+yrs so dealing with lock work on S&W’s was an on going affair.
A replacement rebound spring and light stoning and facing of the single action sear on the hammer is what it needs.
Not major surgery!
Sending it back to S&W might be a bottomless rabbit hole! They no longer have parts for the older guns, and might even keep your gun and give you a voucher towards purchase of a NEW gun. Likely for FAR less than your gun is worth on open market.
They no longer honor the “Lifetime warranty” of older firearms.
Only if I had a problem with a recent manufacture gun would I send it back to S&W.
.38 Special
Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2006
- Messages
- 7,377
Regardless of the current issues, you have one of the best and most useful revolvers of all time, and these days, $650 is a fine price for such a treasure. In your shoes, I would find a "name" gunsmith - the American Pistolsmiths Guild is a good place to start: https://americanpistolsmithsguild.com/ - and then tell the fellow what you want. It may well set you back another few hundred bucks, but you will then have one of the few perfect things available in this life, along with the satisfaction of having been partially responsible for its existence.
Congratulations on your find, regardless, and please let us know how it turns out.
Hello, thanks again for all the responses. Since I last posted I have pulled the grip and found that the strain screw was a little loose. I tightened it, two or three turns which only resulted in causing the trigger to fail to return to the forward position on it's own. It now requires a little help. At this point my plan is to see what happens when I try to fire it, hopefully this weekend, and then return it to the store where I bought it so that their gunsmith can take a look at it.
