Holster wet molding

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Sounds like am attempt at making kydex from leather and a way to get them out the door faster.

It is raining just enough to not want to be out in it so I think I will go get started on a new belt I have been intend to make for myself that will remain real leather.
No it is neither. It is just the correct professional way to set a wet molded holster. Probably a good idea if you just stuck to belts.
 
Well then your knowldge base is lacking. For nearly a decade I was a professional custom holster maker and sold holsters to every state in the union and several foriegn countries until my health took a downturn. I know a large number of custom makers and all ,read that all, use heat to set the molding in wet molded veg tan holsters. Your use of the term "bake" further indicates you do not know whereof you speak. The holsters are not baked but force dried at a temperature around 150deg F this allows the release of collagens, think liguid hide glue, in the leather fibers essentialy glueing the molding in place.
Throttle back on the condescension there pard, we'll have a more harmonious outcome. Before you get too comfy on your high horse, I never said what you posted was false. I simply took exception to the comment that ALL "professional" makers bake their holsters. Because they do not. Maybe YOUR knowledge base is lacking, maybe your frame of reference is too narrow or maybe we're just talking about two different things. You're obviously talking about MASS PRODUCED, fully boned/molded concealment holsters and I am not. I don't know you and you don't know me but I know quite a few "professional" makers and none of them are baking their holsters.


Probably a good idea if you just stuck to belts.
You may need to go back to school and learn some manners while you're at it.
 
Throttle back on the condescension there pard, we'll have a more harmonious outcome. Before you get too comfy on your high horse, I never said what you posted was false. I simply took exception to the comment that ALL "professional" makers bake their holsters. Because they do not. Maybe YOUR knowledge base is lacking, maybe your frame of reference is too narrow or maybe we're just talking about two different things. You're obviously talking about MASS PRODUCED, fully boned/molded concealment holsters and I am not. I don't know you and you don't know me but I know quite a few "professional" makers and none of them are baking their holsters.



You may need to go back to school and learn some manners while you're at it.
Nice try at twisting what I said. I said that all professional custom holster makers use heat to set the molding in wet formed holsters. I made no refrence to those making western style holsters or others that are not wet molded. I was not refering to only mass produced holsters although those that are wet formed are heat dried also I was refering to custom holster makers that use wet formed veg tan leather. Your continued use of the term baked shows how little you really know. The heat used is right around 150degF hardly a baking temperature.
As to learning some manners. If he thinks that heat drying is trying to turn leather into kydex and a sneaky way to get more work out the door then he really should stick to belts.
 
I wet mold every damned thing I make. As do most. Again, maybe it's YOUR knowledge base that's lacking. Do you even know the distinction between wet molding and boning? You don't think these are wet molded? Oh I apologize, this isn't "professional" work. I reckon neither was the work of John Bianchi, Chuck Burrows, Will Ghormley or myriad other "professionals".

Force drying with heat = baking. Lighten up, I know exactly what the hell you're talking about. When I do it, either to expedite the process or to keep a rawhide holster/sheath from going sour, it's in a dehydrator right next to the jerky and set at 100°.

In his defense, that's exactly what it sounds like. Virtually all makers of modern concealment gear are taking shortcuts, such as using vacuum molds rather than hand boning. Which is also more akin to working with Kydex than leather. See, we probably know more about what you're talking about than you do.

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I wet mold every damned thing I make. As do most. Again, maybe it's YOUR knowledge base that's lacking. Do you even know the distinction between wet molding and boning? You don't think these are wet molded? Oh I apologize, this isn't "professional" work. I reckon neither was the work of John Bianchi, Chuck Burrows, Will Ghormley or myriad other "professionals".

Force drying with heat = baking. Lighten up, I know exactly what the hell you're talking about. When I do it, either to expedite the process or to keep a rawhide holster/sheath from going sour, it's in a dehydrator right next to the jerky and set at 100°.

In his defense, that's exactly what it sounds like. Virtually all makers of modern concealment gear are taking shortcuts, such as using vacuum molds rather than hand boning. Which is also more akin to working with Kydex than leather. See, we probably know more about what you're talking about than you do.

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No point in carrying this any further. You are entitled to your opinion and I am entitled to disagree. Just to clarify a couple of things. Vacuum molding does not preclude hand boning but makes it much easier with consitantly good results and many makers have gone to it from the former method of 40durometer rubber pads in a hydraulic press. Might want to research it a bit you might find it useful. I also made kydex holsters and it was in no way anything like forming leather.
By the way nice looking holsters.
 
I certainly hope leather can be molded again. I have a large piece of leather (shoulder) I'm using to make a holster (concealed); the leather is some old stuff and has been neglected in the basement too long. It seems to have some water on it. I gave it a generous application of leather lotion (the bottle is in the other room) and it seems to be responding. I decided to try this bit of leather prior to trashing it and buying more.

I have wet molded several holsters and used rubbing alcohol instead of water. It doesn't cause rust on the firearm used and a light application of leather oil (like for shoes and such) will restore any effects from the alcohol. None of my guns have finishes other than bluing or nickle.
 
You can certainly use alcohol. That's basically what I'm doing when I wet form right after dip dyeing. You just have to work faster as it dries so much more quickly.
 
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