How does this brass look?

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tnieto2004

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I am testing some 90gr 6x45 loads. I am within Accurate 2230 range but I get a little nervous seating to 2.26" for the magazine. Anyone see anything alarming about these? I see some SLIGHT ejector swipes.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Pictures are a bit blurry, but:
1) ejector wipe can be caused on the way out, by pressure or a burr on the boltface, or on the way in by tight fit or a burr on the bolt face.
2) those primers look fine, but decap a few to look closer and check pocket tightness.
3) stop mixing headstamps, or stop pretending you're after accuracy or max velocity. Pick one.
3b) I've never met a 5.56 Headstamp more durable than LC. If you're not going to buy Lapua, use year-sorted LC brass for pocket life.
 
Thanks for the info Edward, I'll decap some today! I'm not after velocity, just hunting-adequate ammo under 250yards- I am looking for a hog/small deer round for my 6x45.
 
High pressure showing. Primer flowing into firing pin channel. Some would say "bush the firing pin hole".

What primer? Some flow sooner then others. All load data may help?
20190215_140151.jpg
 
20190215_141433.jpg There is a short bullet bearing lenght on fmj bullets. At least in .224" .

When the bullet bearing surface increases, pressure goes up. Bullet construction also may raise pressure . Thick jacket, non-lead cores.
 
High pressure showing. Primer flowing into firing pin channel. Some would say "bush the firing pin hole".
In a world of high-end or custom rifles, that would be useful information. In this world, it's not; every bolt gun I own from 4 manufacturers shows that primer sign for every load, hand or factory, I've ever fired.

Residual radius of the primer corner is much more useful, since it only depends on the bolt face being present, not bushed custom-tight around the pin hole.
 
Here is a primer I pulled from one of those. I am using 24gr of Accurate 2230 with a Nosler BT seated COL@ 2.265" CCI standard small rifle primer
 

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If its used in an AR, you want a hard skinned primer like 243winxb has suggested. CCI#41 is best in that regards.
 
Here is a primer. . .
Primers look good. What you don't want is the corner radius approaching 0 (sharp corner) or worse still recurving outward to fill the radius in the brass around the pocket. Sometimes it's hard to tell which you're seeing without decapping.

Here's a comically (tragically?) extreme example. . . no I didn't load it. Some type 3 reloader was trying to duplicate .357 energy in his .380ACP.
 

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I think before reading the pressure signs on that brass, it would be beneficial to know a little more information...

What firearm? Auto (AR15) or a bolt action?
How was the brass resized prior to this firing? FL resized, or neck sized only?
What Primers were used?
Condition of the primer pockets (loose, tight)
Condition of the bolt face
What do factory loads fired in the same gun look like after firing (I know, not likely with a 6x45... but if you have some 223/5.56 brass that the same bolt has fired to compare against...)

Reading what appear to be mild (ie... not extreme) pressure signs alone with nothing to compare to is really only "shooting in the dark" when it comes to making a determination... in my opinion. Like I said in the beginning of this post, just a little more information would make what we're looking at here more meaningful.
 
I think before reading the pressure signs on that brass, it would be beneficial to know a little more information...

What firearm? Auto (AR15) or a bolt action? AR
How was the brass resized prior to this firing? FL resized, or neck sized only? FL Resize and trimmed
What Primers were used? CCI 400
Condition of the primer pockets (loose, tight)- Neither loose or tight- pretty normal form my experience
Condition of the bolt face- no visual issue on the bolt face
What do factory loads fired in the same gun look like after firing (I know, not likely with a 6x45... but if you have some 223/5.56 brass that the same bolt has fired to compare against...)- Don't have any factory or previously fired- new gun

Reading what appear to be mild (ie... not extreme) pressure signs alone with nothing to compare to is really only "shooting in the dark" when it comes to making a determination... in my opinion. Like I said in the beginning of this post, just a little more information would make what we're looking at here more meaningful.
 
What firearm? Auto (AR15) or a bolt action? AR
How was the brass resized prior to this firing? FL resized, or neck sized only? FL Resize and trimmed
What Primers were used? CCI 400
Condition of the primer pockets (loose, tight)- Neither loose or tight- pretty normal form my experience
Condition of the bolt face- no visual issue on the bolt face
What do factory loads fired in the same gun look like after firing (I know, not likely with a 6x45... but if you have some 223/5.56 brass that the same bolt has fired to compare against...)- Don't have any factory or previously fired- new gun

OK, with that, FIRST, I have to say that I have exactly ZERO experience with AR's, or their operation... That said....

The thing I see in your cases that concerns me the most is especially noticeable in the 3rd and 4th rounds from the top in your pics... which show a bit of primer flattening. Could be caused by too much headspace... potentially because your FL die could be "bumping" your shoulder back a bit too much. This would let the primer push out of the pocket during the firing sequence, and then get flattened by the case as the case later stretches to fill the excess headspace... giving the appearance of over pressure.

The Cratering you are seeing around the firing pin mark is pretty normal in my experience with CCI primers. I have the same thing with my 22-250.

I would try backing off your FL die just a bit, and fire a few of the otherwise same load, and see what the primers look like.
 
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