How would rebarreling my garand affect it's worth?

[Orlando]

Humor us and give it a try. What it will do is give a rough idea of what the wear to the muzzle is
Test the muzzle. Get a USGI 30-06 M2 Ball round for a tool. Hold the muzzle
up and put the M2 round in point down. If the case mouth touches the barrel crown , muzzle is very worn.
If the bullet ogive holds the case mouth up a 1/16" or so above the origin of the rifling at the bore/crown interface, there is a chance of a good shooter for several thousand rounds. If the bullet holds the case mouth 2/16" above the
origin of the rifling at the bore/crown interface, there is half the barrel life left. If 3/16",3/4 the barrel life. If it holds nearly a full 4/16", it is a near new barrel
I have been collecting and shooting USGI Military Surplus rifles since the eraly 1980's and do know alittle about them. I have owned around 20 Garands in that time
You are getting good information for some of us here wether you choose to accept it or not is up to you
Good luck

 

[CZguy]

Just because all Garand threads need a gratuitous M1 photo.

 

[ralfus]

Me too

 

[Orlando]

OK .I'll play. Nice looking rifles guys

 

[scythefwd]

Orlando - that information is useful. Just saying stick a round in the muzzle isn't useful to someone without the knowledge of the measurements you just gave.

I have checked just about everything else mentioned, gas tube, front sight tightness, make sure the op rod isn't catching, the tilt test, making sure the sights aren't moving (both rear and front), making sure the front isn't canted.

 

[benzy2]

I can't see you hurting value by rebarreling to a Kreiger barrel. It may not hold as much value to a collector but you are going to gain a bit to a shooter. It all depends on your target market. If its a rack grade as it sits and you rebarrel to a match barrel, you are going to increase the value from a parts rifle alone. It may not jump as much as you invest in the barrel, but it won't go down from where it is. Plenty of people are out there looking for a good shooter M1. That is exactly what you will have done, make a good shooting M1. If you were taking a correct gun in good shape it would be one thing but the fact you have a mix master, even if it is a correct barrel, doesn't give you a rifle worth much more than the standard rack grade prices. Turn the thing into a mix master that shoots very well and you have another story.

 

[Orlando]

No but the very first time I mentioned it to you I said to report back and report how much of the bullet was showing.

 

[CZguy]

I have checked just about everything else mentioned, gas tube, front sight tightness, make sure the op rod isn't catching, the tilt test, making sure the sights aren't moving (both rear and front), making sure the front isn't canted.

What ammo are you shooting in it?

Sometimes I will have a second shooter try it out to see if he gets the same results. Not an insult, just a troubleshooting technique that I have found useful.

 

[AH-1]

DCM

 

[scythefwd]

orlando , don't have any lc stuff around right now, but a game king has alot of bullet hang out. I did notice a small nick on the muzzle face. That could be some of my problem.

as to it being a parts master, here are the numbers I could find
receiver- sn 5027925 - d6528291 LEAD 8-68
bolt - D28287-19 SA
trigger group- d28290-5-sa
safety - sa-11 (as far as I can tell)
hammer - c46008-1

barrel - lmr d6535448 4 54 a32
op rod 6535382 sa

I couldn't find any other numbers on it. It looks to me that the trigger group was rebuilt at the least.

 

[Orlando]

Yes the rifle has gone through a rebuild , thats why its a mixture of SA parts on a IHC reciver (LEAD rebuild 1968)

If the knick is on the outside or face of the muzzle and doesnt protrude into where he bullet rides its not a issue.

If you remove the action from the stock and then reinstall it can take up to 40 rds or so fired through it to set the action back into the stock and accuracy to return.

IMO the rifle is worth more as is to a collector than if you replace the barrel. Actually LEAD rebuilds are getting collectable in their own.
I have a TOOELE rebuild with original barrel that is one of my favorites
Doest sound like a new barrel is needed anyway

 

[scythefwd]

Orlando, The mating surfaces, or some of them at least, have had a small skimming of epoxy or resin on them. Right under the rear of the receiver at the back of the cutout in the stock and at the front of the stock as well. Again, I'm not looking at the stock right now, but it has been at least bedded a little. That should keep it seating in the stock the same every time and from the first shot on. I'll take a look at the bedding job a bit more and see if I should redo it, but if it was done by my grandfather, then it was either done right or his first attempt ever. I have doubts that it was his first attempt. He was one of the best shooters I have known and did all of his own work.

 

[Orlando]

If it has been bedded that is even more of a reason not to remove the action from the stock unless really nessacary. You can ruin the bedding