I finally made this.

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C Younger

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Almost two years ago I started tossing the idea around of pouring the powder for a bp revolver through the barrel. I finally got around to making something and, so far, I like the results. I found some 1/4” brass tube and attached it to a funnel I made from a .243 casing. The tube goes into the chamber about 5/8”, so I pour, lift, rotate, and drop. Now I’ve got a larger hole to pour my scoop into which is made from a .44 mag case. No more powder grains on the face of the cylinder (not that I was a messy loader to begin with). 81A7AAB1-5ED4-41A3-A26C-8DCA40C233C4.jpeg image.jpg
 
Kind of a drop tube...any problems with 2nd and 3rd reload w/out removing cylinder to clean?

Do you run the ball and wad down the barrel too?
No issues with not cleaning the cylinder, but the Old Army generally can run through several cylinders before cleaning is necessary. Definitely don’t load the ball down the barrel, other than being near impossible without the leverage of the reloading lever, it would create an undersized ball.
 
Nice ruger, how much did the power compact, maybe you can get more powder in if you wanted.
Not sure I could get much more powder in, besides, I’ve never gotten best accuracy from max loads.
The main reason for making this was to avoid getting powder on the face of the cylinder while loading. I was reading an article somewhere that theorized most chain fires are caused by powder sticking to the sides of the chamber, then getting caught between the ball and chamber wall which would grind the powder into a fine powder trail down the inside of the chamber. The author recommended a funnel to ensure the powder is as far back in the chamber as possible before the ball is seated. Grease and over powder wads have been effective at mitigating the risk, but I don’t like using either of those products, so wanted to reduce the risk in other ways.
 
That’s a pretty cool tool. I seriously doubt you’ll spill enough powder on the face of the cylinder to cause a chain fire. You seem pretty careful to me. If you use good .457 balls it just won’t happen. Wads, over ball grease, etc. just aren’t needed for that purpose. Some lube is advisable but not needed to prevent chain fire.
 
Not sure I could get much more powder in, besides, I’ve never gotten best accuracy from max loads.
The main reason for making this was to avoid getting powder on the face of the cylinder while loading. I was reading an article somewhere that theorized most chain fires are caused by powder sticking to the sides of the chamber, then getting caught between the ball and chamber wall which would grind the powder into a fine powder trail down the inside of the chamber. The author recommended a funnel to ensure the powder is as far back in the chamber as possible before the ball is seated. Grease and over powder wads have been effective at mitigating the risk, but I don’t like using either of those products, so wanted to reduce the risk in other ways.
I think this may be the article that you referred to, very interesting.
http://geojohn.org/BlackPowder/RevolverMobile.html
 
I think this may be the article that you referred to, very interesting.
http://geojohn.org/BlackPowder/RevolverMobile.html
I think that’s the article. When I read it, it made a lot of sense.
I remove the cylinder on the Remingtons when I reload so any funnel works just fine. The Ruger and Colt I leave the cylinder in the guns until they gum up enough to start causing problems.
 
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