I Snubbed My 1858 Stainless

[paul harm]

I've seen some threads drift, but we didn't really need someones post about modern 45 autos in a muzzle loading forum. JMHO

 

[Ugly Sauce]

I just need a sight and some final polishing.

The bead the bead. Go with a bead. Highest cool-factor.

 

[Paul R Zartman]

I've seen some threads drift, but we didn't really need someones post about modern 45 autos in a muzzle loading forum. JMHO

That is not a "drift" it is a total white out blizzard...but, what a awesome looking gun, I am sure I can make my '58-'63 look like that with a little help...

 

[Ugly Sauce]

That is not a "drift" it is a total white out blizzard...but, what a awesome looking gun, I am sure I can make my '58-'63 look like that with a little help...

Not sure if that would look good on a Remington. ? Cool on a 1911 for sure. The barrel on a 1860 or 1861 Navy kind of have a "melted" look. !!!

 

[paul harm]

You could use " just " a bead - drill a hole in the barrel and tap it or if a tight fit use some Lock Tite.

 

[Ugly Sauce]

You could use " just " a bead - drill a hole in the barrel and tap it or if a tight fit use some Lock Tite.

Yes, a big bead. One could also go with the tight fit, and silver solder, or just regular solder which would take very little heat. Put some flux in the hole before tapping the bead in.

As I'm sure everyone knows, using a pistol like that at very close range you don't take the time to line up the sights, but rather just put the front sight (or bead) on the target and shoot. More accurate than just pointing, but just as fast. At that range, holding the front sight or bead above the back strap or top of the frame will only make a one inch difference in elevation, if that. In my experience, drawing from concealment and putting the first shot on target as fast as possible, I tend to shoot low anyway, and gut shoot my target. (trying to line up the sights) Just using the front sight held high above the rear sight/frame puts me right on.