LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Mine's taken one before, though the circumstances were not as I had hoped for. Had to do with grabbing the wrong pouch of ammo, something that isn't going to happen again.
I went with the K31!
- Thread starter meanmrmustard
- Start date
- Status
meanmrmustard
Member
What did you confuse it with? If I may ask.
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
Well, to save myself from some ridicule I've taken about this from another thread, it was purely a mix-up, wasn't as focused on what I was doing as I should have been, but it resulted in a clean-kill none-the-less, though I'll never make this mistake again.
I had hunting rounds and fmj rounds in two different pouches, and I was out the door to go and hunt in Nebraska on some family land. Grabbed the the FMJ rounds instead of the soft-point rounds on accident. Didn't pay any attention loading the rifle up at all, only put three in through the action of the rifle down into the magazine, wasn't even looking.
I took the first deer the K31 has ever taken in my possession with fmj and that is a huge no-no. At least it was a clean kill.
I had hunting rounds and fmj rounds in two different pouches, and I was out the door to go and hunt in Nebraska on some family land. Grabbed the the FMJ rounds instead of the soft-point rounds on accident. Didn't pay any attention loading the rifle up at all, only put three in through the action of the rifle down into the magazine, wasn't even looking.
I took the first deer the K31 has ever taken in my possession with fmj and that is a huge no-no. At least it was a clean kill.
meanmrmustard
Member
Ah, I see. No scrutiny from me, mistakes happen. What do you suggest for a hunting round?
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
I know Sellier & Bellot and Prvi Partisan both make a Soft Point round, I used a relative's hand-loads after that but I think his brass was Prvi. It's either or, I have no experience with either, but I've heard more good about Prvi than Sellier so Prvi would be my pick.
Lost the pouch of soft-points I bought in the move a few years ago, I'm pretty sure they're Prvi, but might be Sellier, too.
Lost the pouch of soft-points I bought in the move a few years ago, I'm pretty sure they're Prvi, but might be Sellier, too.
Last edited:
meanmrmustard
Member
Have you used the Hornady soft point?
I'm starting the refinish tomorrow, mostly just filling a tote with steaming water, steaming stock with iron, using Krud Kutter to draw out gunk and old finish. I'm a wee bit nervous, but confident that it will be a good experience.
How is perma blue on the muzzle and front sight? Should I bother touch up bluing? It's not horrible, but worn nonetheless.
meanmrmustard said:
938th Mountain Infantry Company. I'm guessing "Unit A". I couldn't tell you what the next number means without a picture of it, but it's most likely an address. The cards only ever featured a date of birth; they were never stamped with rifle construction or an issue date.
The slings are often stamped though; it might give you a good idea of when the rifle was issued if you can find it.
vaupet
Member
geb = gebirgs or mountain, fus = fusilier, infantry, kp probably kompany
hinteregg is the name of a road in the village grabserberg, Eggenberger is a very common name in that village, this was usualy the home-adress of the soldier
a very fine link on swiss rifles: http://www.swissrifles.com/index.html
have fun
Peter
hinteregg is the name of a road in the village grabserberg, Eggenberger is a very common name in that village, this was usualy the home-adress of the soldier
a very fine link on swiss rifles: http://www.swissrifles.com/index.html
have fun
Peter
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck
Member
There is so much to learn about these rifles; it's an adventure in-and-of-itself. I would just leave metal as is, and just do the stock. Looks better that way.
And it's been a few years since I've fired those reloads, not sure what they were. I don't reload, so... So it's a safe in-between road of "I do not know" with Hornady soft-points.
Sent from my MP3/Hands-Free/Web-Browsing Device
And it's been a few years since I've fired those reloads, not sure what they were. I don't reload, so... So it's a safe in-between road of "I do not know" with Hornady soft-points.
Sent from my MP3/Hands-Free/Web-Browsing Device
madcratebuilder
Member
Does the wood have a oil finish now or is it a shellack finish? Most post war2 are shellack.
You would remove the old shellack with denatured alcohol.
You would remove the old shellack with denatured alcohol.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
I suppose. On the other hand, it is a vintage military rifle. Part of the value of it is in it being, and looking, as it did when issued. A little refreshing may be in order. Changing it to some color they never came in ruins something you can't get back.
But, of course, if what's keeping you from enjoying your rifle is that the stock isn't red or purple or blue or whatever -- go for it, right?
meanmrmustard
Member
What's going to be the fastest stripping method that isn't harsh to the wood. It's beech, but almost certainly worn through the shellac. I figured hot water and a good degreaser would draw that stuff out?
meanmrmustard
Member
It's not that I'm willing to deface the gun, hence my questions on best way to go about it.
meanmrmustard
Member
You and phaeton are awesome! Thanks for that info.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
If the finish is shellac, denatured alcohol will dissolve it and wash it away. That's very gentle on the stock, and something you should get done before you do anything else to it.
meanmrmustard
Member
Thanks, I'll get that. Next, what is the barrels rate of twist? I'm not privy to that
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
1 in 10.63 in. (http://www.swissrifles.com/sr/)
Optimized for the 175 gr. bullet the GP11 cartridge uses.
Optimized for the 175 gr. bullet the GP11 cartridge uses.
meanmrmustard
Member
Cool, that's what I found too. I also found that many of these rifle, albeit carried alot, were well maintained and shot sparingly for training. Hence, I'm guessing, why ive yet to hear someone with crappy rifling. This bore is downright gorgeous, and 63 years old to boot.
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
The most common "damage" is a series of dents surrounding the stock between an inch and 3" above the buttplate. There's a great pic to explain that which shows a bunch of Swiss alpine troops at parade rest one morning outside their tents up some mountain in deep snow, with their rifle butts resting in the snow against their hobnail boots.
It's all history, man! Don't wipe too much of it away.
It's all history, man! Don't wipe too much of it away.
chicharrones
needs more ammo
I haven't shot mine open sighted in some time. I have an S&K scout scope mount with a Simmons 4x32 pistol scope. You really need a true scout scope with an S&K mount because even with a pistol scope the eye relief is not ideal. On top of the scout scope, I need a cheek riser on the comb to keep hy head aligned better with a scope.
Even with the limitations listed above, here is a sight in target with four 3-shot groups with my K31 using GP11 ammo with that pistol scope mounted.
Last edited:
meanmrmustard
Member
Good shooting, and thanks for the scope/mount info. I'm touch up bluing the trigger guard as we speak.
fireman 9731
Member
Here is my Swiss beauty. Picked it up from a forum member on here. Dates to 1944, original stock with very crisp cartouches. Its in pretty good shape. I don't think it needed refinishing, I like guns with character. I have successfully refinished several stocks with Tru-oil though, I can't recommend it enough.
The K-31's are awesome shooters. Great triggers and sights. Go buy a bunch of GP-11 and some fun!
The K-31's are awesome shooters. Great triggers and sights. Go buy a bunch of GP-11 and some fun!
meanmrmustard
Member
First coat of Sedona Red is drying. Looking like a mosin stock.
barnbwt
member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2011
- Messages
- 7,340
I actually just got back from the range with mine. Before you shoot it, just be sure the:
-Bolt handle is fully forward and bolt sleeve rotated fully (S/N up)
-Raise your head when cycling the action (your nose will thank you)
-Wear something heavier than a T-shirt (I didn't today
)
(related: don't bring more than one box of ammo per range trip)
-Have fun catching your brass as it ejects vertically!
-Take the time to disassemble the bolt (I'm sure you already have) and understand exactly how the cam/sleeve operate. There is a potential failure point on the cocking handle pin that can (highly unlikely) allow an OOB ignition
I really like these guns (I bought two; beech and walnut). Perhaps (perhaps) not quite as accurate as a K98, but easily the most well made ($$$) bolt rifle of the era, or possibly any era. Reports of 1MOA with milsurp GP11 are common. The only thing close to them today is probably a Blaser rifle for over $3K. I've heard estimates the K-31 would cost nearly that to make today.
I was shooting my 30-06 FN49 before this gun today, and the K31 beat me up by comparison. Granted the semi's heavier, but I think the very straight-line stock of the K31 wasn't helping. Your grip is nearly in line with the barrel, so arms can't really catch much of the recoil. Luckily, there is a buttpad adapter out there that allows a cushier rear to be installed without permanent alterations. Sore shoulder aside, I was grouping about 1.5"horizontal X 3" vertical at 50yrds with Hornady's loading (not sure on the brass, but Cyrillic-looking markings). Take that grouping with a lump of salt, though, I've only shot rifle irons twice now. Last time was about 3" x 6".
Oh, be sure to pick up some of the special loaders. Not really a stripper clip, but same idea as far as use. Makes reloading really fast and easy. Also "historically accurate" since these rifles were never really intended to be removable mag-fed (though the Swiss did have the foresight to make it easy to load them externally).
TCB
-Bolt handle is fully forward and bolt sleeve rotated fully (S/N up)
-Raise your head when cycling the action (your nose will thank you)
-Wear something heavier than a T-shirt (I didn't today
)(related: don't bring more than one box of ammo per range trip)
-Have fun catching your brass as it ejects vertically!
-Take the time to disassemble the bolt (I'm sure you already have) and understand exactly how the cam/sleeve operate. There is a potential failure point on the cocking handle pin that can (highly unlikely) allow an OOB ignition
I really like these guns (I bought two; beech and walnut). Perhaps (perhaps) not quite as accurate as a K98, but easily the most well made ($$$) bolt rifle of the era, or possibly any era. Reports of 1MOA with milsurp GP11 are common. The only thing close to them today is probably a Blaser rifle for over $3K. I've heard estimates the K-31 would cost nearly that to make today.
I was shooting my 30-06 FN49 before this gun today, and the K31 beat me up by comparison. Granted the semi's heavier, but I think the very straight-line stock of the K31 wasn't helping. Your grip is nearly in line with the barrel, so arms can't really catch much of the recoil. Luckily, there is a buttpad adapter out there that allows a cushier rear to be installed without permanent alterations. Sore shoulder aside, I was grouping about 1.5"horizontal X 3" vertical at 50yrds with Hornady's loading (not sure on the brass, but Cyrillic-looking markings). Take that grouping with a lump of salt, though, I've only shot rifle irons twice now
. Last time was about 3" x 6".Oh, be sure to pick up some of the special loaders. Not really a stripper clip, but same idea as far as use. Makes reloading really fast and easy. Also "historically accurate" since these rifles were never really intended to be removable mag-fed (though the Swiss did have the foresight to make it easy to load them externally).
TCB
Attachments
Last edited:
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Oooh, I'm sorry. I was afriad that would happen. Well, best of luck with it. There are some wood bleaching chemicals that might help, but it's a long row to hoe.
- Status
