I went with the K31!

[barnbwt]

I guess a bit late to be of help, but shellac is frequently colored or tinted to give wood a bit of color, but would be (more) removeable, at least compared to penetrating stains. Being alchohol soluble, it's easy to repair and fiddle with until you get it just right.

TCB

 

[meanmrmustard]

I guess a bit late to be of help, but shellac is frequently colored or tinted to give wood a bit of color, but would be (more) removeable, at least compared to penetrating stains. Being alchohol soluble, it's easy to repair and fiddle with until you get it just right.

TCB

Too late. I'm two coats into a red stain. It looks hella good compared to what it was before.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I don't have an opinion on a Red K31 but if you like the way it looks, it's your call. Mine would hardly take the stain so lol I guess yours will look better. It's got color, but it wouldn't take any more. Thinking about stripping it and just oiling down the stock lol.

I wish I knew what you guys were talking about when it comes to recoil, though... I can easily go through a ton of ammo per rifle a day. Recoil never bothered me.


~On The Road Again...~

 

[meanmrmustard]

I don't have an opinion on a Red K31 but if you like the way it looks, it's your call. Mine would hardly take the stain so lol I guess yours will look better. It's got color, but it wouldn't take any more. Thinking about stripping it and just oiling down the stock lol.

I wish I knew what you guys were talking about when it comes to recoil, though... I can easily go through a ton of ammo per rifle a day. Recoil never bothered me.


~On The Road Again...~

I'm two coats in, and it's soaking right in. My method:
DNA and Krud Kutter first, hot water, I mean really hot to break through the old finish.
Then, steamed the stock with an iron. Any dent popped up, any gouges I'm chalking up to character. I let stock dry in sun, helped by blow dryer and extension cord.
Sanded, slow and steady, in no one spot for too long. Started at 120 grit, on up to 1200 grit to get the stock über smooth. At this point, all old finish is long gone.
Wiped down both parts of stock with lint free rag, getting the dust off.
Rag-wiped Minwax Sedona Red evenly with grain, top to butt, overlapping areas as I went down.
This is where I'm at thus far. Im bugging GF to take pics, but to no avail.
Overall, at this time, it's alot better looking. Glad I picked the red too.

 

[barnbwt]

Man, your fast, Mustard!

Glad the refinish is going well. So long as the stock looks better than it did, you've "done no harm" in my book. My two are actually in pretty good shape; shallow (numerous) dents, and no discernable water damage/darkening. But some stocks I've seen are downright gnarly toward the butt, stained black and streaky . Duracoat would be a better look for those dogs.

Even on my rifle, a modern, more transparent finish would probably look better, since my walnut stock has literally nothing going on grain-wise (looks like dark pine) and is a bit plain with the satin brown lacquer. I intend to replace the stock with something that fits me better eventually, so I have no need to mess with the original, though.

TCB

 

[meanmrmustard]

Man, your fast, Mustard!

Glad the refinish is going well. So long as the stock looks better than it did, you've "done no harm" in my book. My two are actually in pretty good shape; shallow (numerous) dents, and no discernable water damage/darkening. But some stocks I've seen are downright gnarly toward the butt, stained black and streaky . Duracoat would be a better look for those dogs.

Even on my rifle, a modern, more transparent finish would probably look better, since my walnut stock has literally nothing going on grain-wise (looks like dark pine) and is a bit plain with the satin brown lacquer. I intend to replace the stock with something that fits me better eventually, so I have no need to mess with the original, though.

TCB

Mine was a greenish yellow, with black streaks. Those Swiss sure knew how to build a solid rifle, but not how to carry one! Although, hobnail boots seemed to be a must.

The refinishing is going well. Letting second coat soak in, then tomorrow hitting it with 0000 steel wool, wipe down, the starting with the tru oil. Prolly going eight coats. Can't wait till my GF gets off her hind quarter and does pics. I'd like to have posted before and afters. Touch up bluing on mag, front sight, trigger guard, screws, and sling mount is done. Cold water rinse for deactivation, soaking in CLP waiting for reassembly.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Glad it's working out for you man, just takes some time and concentration.


~On The Road Again...~

 

[headoftheholler]

I'm itching for a K31. I've got plans to put one in a Boyds stock, free floated with the clamp on scope mount. Would compliment my Tikka Mosin sporter and future 7mm Mauser sporter.

 

[meanmrmustard]

I'm itching for a K31. I've got plans to put one in a Boyds stock, free floated with the clamp on scope mount. Would compliment my Tikka Mosin sporter and future 7mm Mauser sporter.

That may be something else I attempt, some kind of walnut sporter stock.

The actions on these rifles a pretty flipping beefy.

 

[barnbwt]

The actions on these rifles a pretty flipping beefy

Right, I'm convinced the steel butt was the Swiss attempt at anti-tank weaponry

Seriously, the guns are pretty heavy (hiliariously so when you realize they were designed as "lighter, shorter carbines" over the 1911 model). I can only imagine what a lighter rifle in this configuration would kick like (I shoot lots of .308, and now 30-06, so I believe my recoil issue is a combination of stock fit, metal butt, and me wearing a T-shirt to the range today)

TCB

EDIT: Upon closer inspection of the butt of the rifle I was shooting, I found the steel plate protrudes over each side slightly, so the back of the stock is basically square in profile (with corners *ouch*) where it meets up with my shoulder. If the bruises on my shoulder are any clue, these corners are the source of my problem (duh). I also notice my beech stock K31 has a nice rounded profile in all directions, so I'd bet the problem is far less on that rifle. Definitely will be buying the aftermarket butt pad adapter now, at least for this gun.

 

[meanmrmustard]

Right, I'm convinced the steel butt was the Swiss attempt at anti-tank weaponry

Seriously, the guns are pretty heavy (hiliariously so when you realize they were designed as "lighter, shorter carbines" over the 1911 model). I can only imagine what a lighter rifle in this configuration would kick like (I shoot lots of .308, and now 30-06, so I believe my recoil issue is a combination of stock fit, metal butt, and me wearing a T-shirt to the range today)

TCB

Most recoil of gotten was a Ruger #1 in .375 H&H. How's that compare?

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I'd be willing to bet its significantly less than the .375 H&H. Never fired the .375, but I'm willing to bet.


~On The Road Again...~

 

[fireman 9731]

I don't think they recoil that much...

 

[meanmrmustard]

I'd be willing to bet its significantly less than the .375 H&H. Never fired the .375, but I'm willing to bet.


~On The Road Again...~

Well, recoil is VERY subjective, and to me it was memorable. I'd say neighborhood of twice that of your run of the mill '06. You don't forget that.

Steel wool tomorrow. Then the tru oil. Can't wait to fire this beasty.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Should have shot it before you went through all of this lol


~On The Road Again...~

 

[meanmrmustard]

No, no. I was talking about the .375!

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I was replying to your "Can't wait to fire this beauty" lol


~On The Road Again...~

 

[rondog]

St. Marie, AKA Swiss Products, does make a fine and simple scope mount that works very well. Clamps on very securely with one screw, and no mods to the rifle. Scope is to the right of centerline though, so the brass can eject. Lots of other goodies for the K31 too. But they don't sell them to the public, you'll need to order one through Brownells, maybe another outlet. But I know they distribute through Brownells. http://www.swissproductsllc.com/

I have two K31's, both walnut, and they are sweet rifles. Recently bought a bayonet from APEX, and it's a very impressive blade for a battle implement. The Swiss sure do things differently.

 

[meanmrmustard]

St. Marie, AKA Swiss Products, does make a fine and simple scope mount that works very well. Clamps on very securely with one screw, and no mods to the rifle. Scope is to the right of centerline though, so the brass can eject. Lots of other goodies for the K31 too. But they don't sell them to the public, you'll need to order one through Brownells, maybe another outlet. But I know they distribute through Brownells. http://www.swissproductsllc.com/

I have two K31's, both walnut, and they are sweet rifles. Recently bought a bayonet from APEX, and it's a very impressive blade for a battle implement. The Swiss sure do things differently.

Prolly gonna do that soon. I'm getting this beast set up for deer.

Mosin: Cabelas wouldn't let me fire it in the parking lot. Jerks.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Lol what <deleted>! Man, if that were a shop I owned I'd tell ya go ahead lol


~On The Road Again...~

 

[meanmrmustard]

Starting tru oil soon. Had a set back.

Excited to shoot it soon. Maybe Saturday.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

Whattaya mean a set-back?


~On The Road Again...~

 

[meanmrmustard]

Whattaya mean a set-back?


~On The Road Again...~

Had to pick up kids. Parenting: priceless.

First coat of tru oil applied. Set to dry for a bit, steel wool, coat two either tonight or tomorrow afternoon. Looks good so far, at least way better than the "hobnail finish".

I could just look at a ballistics calculator, but I'll ask you: what kind of effective range can I expect to shoot deer with factory soft points, accuracy a non issue, and kill cleanly? Guess a better question would be, what is the effective range the 7.5 Swiss for medium sized game?

 

[Sam1911]

I could just look at a ballistics calculator, but I'll ask you: what kind of effective range can I expect to shoot deer with factory soft points, accuracy a non issue, and kill cleanly? Guess a better question would be, what is the effective range the 7.5 Swiss for medium sized game?

Within an insignificant margin of .308 Win. In other words, if you can see them and you know you can put all your shots in an 8" paper plate at that distance, you'll have no problem at all killing a deer with one.

Your ability to accurately shoot the gun under field conditions will be, by far, the limiting factor.

And to be most honest, for the majority of shooters using iron sights, that's maybe 250 yds, if they've practiced a fair bit. With a scope, maybe 350. But you must KNOW that the shot is going RIGHT into that 8" circle at that distance or you shouldn't be on the trigger.

 

[meanmrmustard]

Within an insignificant margin of .308 Win. In other words, if you can see them and you know you can put all your shots in an 8" paper plate at that distance, you'll have no problem at all killing a deer with one.

Your ability to accurately shoot the gun under field conditions will be, by far, the limiting factor.

And to be most honest, for the majority of shooters using iron sights, that's maybe 250 yds, if they've practiced a fair bit. With a scope, maybe 350. But you must KNOW that the shot is going RIGHT into that 8" circle at that distance or you shouldn't be on the trigger.

Soooo...I'm the limitor, not the rifle or round? I know .308 win can reach out and touch at pretty good distances. My eyesight ain't great, but is 300-400 out of the question?