Inconsistent powder throws

[MDoutdoors]

I recently started reloading 44mag a little while back. I've been having issues with my Lee pro auto disk powder measure. I cant seem to get consistent charges while using alliant 2400 powder. I will get charges that vary from +/- .1 gn all the way to +/- 1.5 gn. The pro auto disk design just seems to be inadequate? Could the powder im using be the reason im getting such inconsistencies while metering? I've heard that "stick" powders usually don't meter well in general but 2400 seems to be somewhat of a "short stick" granual. If anyone else has had issues with the lee pro auto disk powder measure let me know what you did to fix it or if you have any recommendations on a powder measure that works well with 2400 im all ears. Thank you.

 

[kalielkslayer]

I’m not familiar with either your loader, nor 2400.

But my uneducated guess would be the powder.

Stick powders are stick powders, no matter how short they are.

I use stick powder for my rifles, measuring each load. But for a progressive, ball powders are the way to go!

 

[MDoutdoors]

I’m not familiar with either your loader, nor 2400.

But my uneducated guess would be the powder.

Stick powders are stick powders, no matter how short they are.

I use stick powder for my rifles, measuring each load. But for a progressive, ball powders are the way to go!

I'm a little reluctant to switch powders as I still have about 3lbs left of the 2400 I would like to get through. It's always done me well until I started putting it through a progressive and using the Lee auto disk system, so maybe switching powders will be necessary. Until then, are there any powder measures you recommend that seem to be pretty consistent while using them on a progressive or maybe a measure that you've used with other stick powders?

 

[tightgroup tiger]

If I'm using the adjustable powder slide in my Pro Auto Disc measure I can get up to .2 gr +or - with 2400 but the fixed normal discs are spot on.
1.5 gr variance sounds like the stroke is messed up and your leaving some powder on the ledge in front of the hole when your disc is supposed to be completely over the hole because it didn't travel forward far enough.
The large capacity holes in the disc almost match's the hole dia under them so you have to look down from the top when you set them up, to make sure you are getting enough stroke that the holes line up with each other and get a full dump every time.

There was also something about the lower parts not being screwed together far enough and leaving a ledge inside that would catch part of the drop and create an inconsistency. I remember this from a long time ago so forgive my bad memory.

Also run a cleaning brush down through the PTX to clean it out good. I have to brush mine out every so many years or it will get erratic.

The design is good, I've been using mine for 25 years and if it's set up correctly and the parts are clean inside, it can be the most consistent measure you have.

 

[MDoutdoors]

Thank you for your response, the first thing I had made sure of was that I was getting a full stroke, the hole in the disk actually pushes out farther then the hole so im sure its fully engaged. However of course I will check again. I will check to make sure the bottom hardware is all tight. I do know that there is a little wiggle side to side even though everything is as tight as I can get it by hand. When I've taken the hopper off to change the disk hole size I notice that there is powder that is left underneath. Almost as if there was a gap between the plate and the disk itself. Wasnt sure if that was normal or perhaps due to the powder type or what I wasnt sure. I will take the whole thing apart. Empty the hopper and clean everything. Perhaps there is something that is catching the powder before it can drop down into the disk hole. I will let you know how this goes

 

[MDoutdoors]

If I'm using the adjustable powder slide in my Pro Auto Disc measure I can get up to .2 gr +or - with 2400 but the fixed normal discs are spot on.
1.5 gr variance sounds like the stroke is messed up and your leaving some powder on the ledge in front of the hole when your disc is supposed to be completely over the hole because it didn't travel forward far enough.
The large capacity holes in the disc almost match's the hole dia under them so you have to look down from the top when you set them up, to make sure you are getting enough stroke that the holes line up with each other and get a full dump every time.

There was also something about the lower parts not being screwed together far enough and leaving a ledge inside that would catch part of the drop and create an inconsistency. I remember this from a long time ago so forgive my bad memory.

Also run a cleaning brush down through the PTX to clean it out good. I have to brush mine out every so many years or it will get erratic.

The design is good, I've been using mine for 25 years and if it's set up correctly and the parts are clean inside, it can be the most consistent measure you have.

Forgot to hit reply when I typed that up ^

 

[BJung]

Sounds like you are using a Lee powder thrower. I don't have any 2400 to meter through my RCBS and Redding Powder thrower so I can't help you. I shoot mostly test loads so I drop my powder into a pan and trickle up to the correct weight.

 

[MDoutdoors]

Sounds like you are using a Lee powder thrower. I don't have any 2400 to meter through my RCBS and Redding Powder thrower so I can't help you. I shoot mostly test loads so I drop my powder into a pan and trickle up to the correct weight.

Gotcha, yeah its a Lee disk measure so basically it just has different disks that have different pre set sized holes and you calculate which hole is right for your powder and charge needs. I heard some good things about the Lee drum measure, the rcbs uniflow, the redding and the Hornady lock and load. Wasnt sure if anyone had any luck with 2400 powder in any of those measures.

 

[Lafitte]

2400 powder is a fairly fine powder and usually measures well if the measuring device is used exactly the same for each throw. Lee equipment usually works fairly well but it is not top of the line. Make certain that the neoprene wiper ring in your Lee is in place and in good condition.
Lafitte

 

[MDoutdoors]

2400 powder is a fairly fine powder and usually measures well if the measuring device is used exactly the same for each throw. Lee equipment usually works fairly well but it is not top of the line. Make certain that the neoprene wiper ring in your Lee is in place and in good condition.
Lafitte

I will check the wiper ring when I do a full takedown of the piece of equipment, thank you.

 

[Walkalong]

Another thumbs up for 2400 metering well. Something is amiss.

 

[rfwobbly]

You have 2 main areas to research. One of them is not the measurability or flow of 2400.

► When it is cold, static cling can become a large problem for people using all-plastic powder measures. This is almost on a case-by-case basis, because some homes with humidifiers (and other anti-static measures) do not experience issues with static electricity. If you are seeing other forms of static in your home, then you should be wiping your powder measure down with anti-static laundry sheets and taking other common anti-static precautions.

► Volumetric powder measures are at a disadvantage from the start. Those type powder measures are measuring Volume, but what we really want is Weight. The only link between accurate Volume and accurate Weight is accurate Density. This should be intuitively obvious. Two common solutions to gain consistent Density are...
A. Powder Baffles can be added to the bottom of the powder hopper. These keep the column height of the powder from changing the powder's Density.
B. Consistent Vibration helps in a big way. It becomes necessary for the press operator to run the press at the exact same speed on each op lever pull in order to elicit the exact same internal vibration within the press/powder measure assembly. This consistent vibration is a huge factor toward the desired consistent Density.

These are not the only ways, but they are the 2 most common. The only way around this that I know of is to purchase an auto powder dispenser with a built-in scale.
.

 

[Rule3]

How and what are you using to weigh the powder throws?. The Lee disc drops powder into the case, then what do you do to weigh.?
Sounds like a weighing issue.
When using the Lee powder through die, there should be a slight "hitch" or bump on the up stroke (by design) that kinda shakes out the powder.
As mentioned check the wiper.

I used the Pro Disc for many years and powders. 2400 meters very well . it is not a "stick" powder. You do not need a powder baffle if the hopper is kept at 3/4 full.
I would not worry about 0.1 grain but the 1.5 is something else.

 

[Zendude]

You could try using a baffle in the powder hopper. It seemed to help with consistency on my pro auto disk.

https://www.titanreloading.com/product/titan-round-powder-baffle/

 

[ericuda]

I cut a baffle out of a thin piece of aluminum. Templates are online. I probably don't need it bit I doubt it hurts.

 

[JeffG]

If you suspect powder bridging or grains staying in the measure, run some powdered graphite through the measure to coat the surfaces. Shake out any excess. I do this for all my powder measures.

 

[sparkyv]

My pro auto disc measures consistently, and 2400 flows and measures well, though I've not run 2400 in that measure. So I also suggest something is amiss with your measure.


This is normal.

When I've taken the hopper off to change the disk hole size I notice that there is powder that is left underneath.

 

[mdi]

The key to consistent powder charges is consistent use. To get identical powder charges, one must operate the powder measure consistently. Early on I tried all the suggestions I could read (waaay pre web) to get consistent charges, but found the key was the operator. If I moved the handle fast one charge and slow the next, charges would differ. If I had the hopper full, I'd get one charge and when near empty, I could get another charge. If I bumped the handle at the end of the stroke I'd get one charge, if I just ran the handle the full through without bumping it at the end of the stroke, I'd get a different charge. Or any other inconsistencies )plus some powders just don't meter as well as others), ends up varing powder charges. After a while reloading I have very little difficulty with consistent 2400 charges from my C-H 502 or my Lee PPM. My method is consistent from set up to cranking the handle. I'd suggest the OP try to make his use/method as identical, from charge to charge as possible before blaming the powder measure (as noted above many don't have problems with 2400 in the same powder measure).

FWIW and just me; I don't own any powder throwers and my powder measures don't throw anything. I'm not usually a "vocabulary nazi", but for me, "powder thrower" and "throws" are irratable and in the same file as "pill" for bullets. "magazine" for clip, "shotty",etc.. I admit it's just me and the meaning is understood, but seems ignorant. My apologies if I offended anyone and I'm not dissing anyone's education or intelligence...

 

[deadeye dick]

On the upstroke I give the metal drum a little tap in case of bridging

 

[MDoutdoors]

How and what are you using to weigh the powder throws?. The Lee disc drops powder into the case, then what do you do to weigh.?
Sounds like a weighing issue.
When using the Lee powder through die, there should be a slight "hitch" or bump on the up stroke (by design) that kinda shakes out the powder.
As mentioned check the wiper.

I used the Pro Disc for many years and powders. 2400 meters very well . it is not a "stick" powder. You do not need a powder baffle if the hopper is kept at 3/4 full.
I would not worry about 0.1 grain but the 1.5 is something else.

I'm using a national metallic digital powder scale. I know for a fact the scale is dead nuts on. To check the powder measures I just dump the powder out of the case and onto the scale into a pan, the scale is zeroed for the little powder pan that sits on top.

 

[.38 Special]

No experience with the Auto Disk, but I've burned an awful lot of 2400 and never had an issue with metering. In the OP's shoes I would buy just about any drum-style measure I could find - including a $20 eBay special https://www.ebay.com/itm/255317447866 - and cal it done.

 

[bersaguy]

I had some issues with the Lee auto disk early on. Most of my issues were static cling, and wiping out the hopper with a dryer sheet took care of most of my problems. Also cleaning out the throat of the drop die with a q-tip from time to time would keep things running smoothly. I switched to the auto drum measure a few years back, but recently bought the auto disk again and use it with the adjustable throw. That all seems to be running consistent drops as long as I keep the hopper at least ½ full. And keeping everything tight....had issues when I first set up my new auto disk loading 45 with Bullseye, there's more mass swinging around on my turret press with the auto disk compared to auto drum. After a while the whole contraption would want to swing out, causing inconsistent drops. Once I tightened everything down nice and snug with most of the mass of the hopper as close to the center of the turret as possible, that cleared right up. Only reason I opted for the disk instead of the drum is the blasted new hopper/bottle Lee is putting on it. I like to have a lid on the hopper to top off or put my weight check drops back into the hopper

 

[FROGO207]

With electronic scales I often find the scale is the culprit when measures differ.
You might try measuring a charge, put it back into the brass, wait for the same length of time it would take to normally go to your next brass, then dump the previously weighed charge again. Do this several times. Do you get the exact weight every time. You should, as it is the same amount. This will verify the scale sees the same weight every time---or not.

 

[Blue68f100]

I find when dumping powder from a shell, powder has a tendency to stick in the primer. It may take several taps to get it out, some may not.

 

[Tilos]

If I'm using the adjustable powder slide in my Pro Auto Disc measure I can get up to .2 gr +or - with 2400 but the fixed normal discs are spot on.
1.5 gr variance sounds like the stroke is messed up and your leaving some powder on the ledge in front of the hole when your disc is supposed to be completely over the hole because it didn't travel forward far enough.
The large capacity holes in the disc almost match's the hole dia under them so you have to look down from the top when you set them up, to make sure you are getting enough stroke that the holes line up with each other and get a full dump every time.

There was also something about the lower parts not being screwed together far enough and leaving a ledge inside that would catch part of the drop and create an inconsistency. I remember this from a long time ago so forgive my bad memory.

Also run a cleaning brush down through the PTX to clean it out good. I have to brush mine out every so many years or it will get erratic.

The design is good, I've been using mine for 25 years and if it's set up correctly and the parts are clean inside, it can be the most consistent measure you have.

Yeh, I remember that go-around.
It was the drop tube not being pressed all the way into the powder measure body.
Even with the drop tube pushed in until it bottom's out against the shoulder, there could still be a small shelf there for powder to stick on.
Here's a pic looking down thru the measure and you can see this shelf:

And I just pushed the drop tube against the edge of my bench, and it pushed in the drop tube until it hit the shoulder.
jmo,
.