Interesting comment on GB auction
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Willie Sutton
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^^ Exactly.
Blade shaped rather than a rod (but started off as a piece of drill-rod, then filed flat on the sides after being set into the frame).
This is one of the largest improvements than can be made to these. Makes reliable rapid fire a pleasure.
Willie
.
Blade shaped rather than a rod (but started off as a piece of drill-rod, then filed flat on the sides after being set into the frame).
This is one of the largest improvements than can be made to these. Makes reliable rapid fire a pleasure.
Willie
.
Please tell me more about this "cap rake".
Having never heard of one, I don't know how to make and install one.
I would like to do so. Eliminating cap jams would be a great thing for my Pietta Navy
and Uberti 1862 Police.
I like to use them as woods-loafing pistols, but would like them better if the hammers didn't pull the caps off the nipples and jam up the works.
Does the cap rake enable me to retain the hammer safety notch?
It would be great if it does.
Having never heard of one, I don't know how to make and install one.
I would like to do so. Eliminating cap jams would be a great thing for my Pietta Navy
and Uberti 1862 Police.
I like to use them as woods-loafing pistols, but would like them better if the hammers didn't pull the caps off the nipples and jam up the works.
Does the cap rake enable me to retain the hammer safety notch?
It would be great if it does.
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Willie Sutton
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Basically you add a pin into the top of the frame and then enlarge the slot in the hammer so the hammer clears the pin. The pin prevents the caps from falling off when shot. It really improves function tremendously.
I ended up with a matched pair of the 1860's from the same smith/seller and they are my favorite C&B revolvers. Also a 1861 set up the same way. I can do photos but itll be in April when I get back north.
The photo shown above shows how they look though. Not hard to do. You just need to have enough guts to drill a hole to start with. After that it's easy.
Willie
.
I ended up with a matched pair of the 1860's from the same smith/seller and they are my favorite C&B revolvers. Also a 1861 set up the same way. I can do photos but itll be in April when I get back north.
The photo shown above shows how they look though. Not hard to do. You just need to have enough guts to drill a hole to start with. After that it's easy.
Willie
.
Here is an essay on the installation of the cap rake (in this case, a cap pin).
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/colt_cap_and_ball.pdf
I have them on a couple of my revolvers because they work AND allow me to use the hammer slot as it was intended to be used. I have also replaced the safety pins on some of my cylinders so they can be used as intended.
http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/colt_cap_and_ball.pdf
I have them on a couple of my revolvers because they work AND allow me to use the hammer slot as it was intended to be used. I have also replaced the safety pins on some of my cylinders so they can be used as intended.
toolslinger
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Look it's clear to anyone that knows guns that the guy meant that he modified the plantroidestics. What he didn't mention is that you then have to correspondingly lengthen the shintoidstoolik. Come on guys its obvious!
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Willie Sutton
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StrawHat, good article. Thanks for the share.
These are one of the most important practical modifications you can make on one of these.
The fully tuned pair that I shoot has had that done, has had a brass pin added to each arbor to correct length, Wolf springs installed, cylinders reamed to correct size, and treso nipples installed.
Once these items are done they become completely different animals from a shootin' standpoint than your out of the box Uberti. The work is not difficult or expensive to do.
Willie
.
These are one of the most important practical modifications you can make on one of these.
The fully tuned pair that I shoot has had that done, has had a brass pin added to each arbor to correct length, Wolf springs installed, cylinders reamed to correct size, and treso nipples installed.
Once these items are done they become completely different animals from a shootin' standpoint than your out of the box Uberti. The work is not difficult or expensive to do.
Willie
.
44 Dave
Member
In Sitm1's 3rd photo notice the punch, staked, mark holding the pin tight.
I have done this to 4 open tops, it is the best thing ever and easy.
You also want the pin rounded so as not to snag when cleaning. I used softer wire pin but cutting the drill would be OK as you would have the the size matched as in straw hat's link
I have done this to 4 open tops, it is the best thing ever and easy.
You also want the pin rounded so as not to snag when cleaning. I used softer wire pin but cutting the drill would be OK as you would have the the size matched as in straw hat's link
Crawdad1
Member
So you're saying that because of Uberti's short arbor and the subsequent barrel misalignment the Pietta Colt is a better shooter out of the box then the Uberti Colt?
Thanks for the link.
I think I'll do my brass framed Pietta "Navy" .44 first.
Then, I'll do my Pietta .36 Navy and my Uberti 62 Police.
So, make/install cap rake and deepen/enlarge the cap trough as needed.
Seems simple enough.
The above pics look as though the cap rake is installed with a forward angle.
The link shows it installed parallel to the recoil shield.
Is either one better?
So, would there be any need or reason to install a cap rake on a Remington or ROA?
I think I'll do my brass framed Pietta "Navy" .44 first.
Then, I'll do my Pietta .36 Navy and my Uberti 62 Police.
So, make/install cap rake and deepen/enlarge the cap trough as needed.
Seems simple enough.
The above pics look as though the cap rake is installed with a forward angle.
The link shows it installed parallel to the recoil shield.
Is either one better?
So, would there be any need or reason to install a cap rake on a Remington or ROA?
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44 Dave
Member
Jaymo I used soft material bent for ward for my cap rakes which doesn't require as much of a notch in the hammer. I drilled the hole so it just clears the back of the shield then let the hammer bend it forward to where I want it the set with small sharp punch.
Makes sense. It's not a firing pin, so it doesn't have to be hard.
A cut off stub of small diameter welding rod, or a small piece of brass brazing rod (for brass frames
) and use it.
I must do this.
It makes me want to buy more Colt replicas. Maybe an 1860 Army, an 1861 Navy, an 1849 Pocket, and a 3rd Dragoon.
A cut off stub of small diameter welding rod, or a small piece of brass brazing rod (for brass frames
) and use it.I must do this.
It makes me want to buy more Colt replicas. Maybe an 1860 Army, an 1861 Navy, an 1849 Pocket, and a 3rd Dragoon.
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