Is It Time For A New Scope?

D.B. Cooper

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I have a Redfield Revolution (made in USA by Leupold) on my 243. I've had it...at least ten years. It's a good scope, but I think it's having repeatability issues.

I recently turned it all the way to the lowest elevation and back (157 clicks each way) to determine my "battlefield zero." Then, I turned it to max elevation and back to determine how much more elevation I had remaining. (43 clicks). Took it out to the range today, and it was about 3" low at 200 yards. Made 1.5 MOA or 6 clicks adjustment. Next shot was 3" high at 200. Next two were dead on and touching each other. Then I added 7 clicks and rang some steel at 300. Turned it down 7 clicks, and the next 3 shots were 3" high at 200. (Should have been back to dead on.) Made another 6 click, 1.5 MOA adjustment and the next 3 shots were 3" low. I then brought it back up 6 clicks, and the final 3 shots were 1" low @ 200.

Other than removing/reinstalling the base and rings (DNZ one piece base with built-in rings) with new locktite, is there any other troubleshooting I can do before condemning this scope? I've never had issues with it. Other than riding around in a Kolpin gun boot on a side by side, it hasn't had a hard life. Then again, this is the first time I've ever tried to shoot using the elevation knob adjustments. I usually just use the BDC reticle for the 300 yard shots and Kentucky Windage for everything else.

I wonder if Leuplod will even warranty this thing now that the Redfield name is dead an buried. I wonder what their turn around would be if they do warranty it. (47 days until hunting season opens.) Is this even worth repairing? (A comparable Vortex scope is $259, which is only slightly more than I paid for this Redfield 10 years ago.)
 
Many years ago I had a scope that did basically the same thing yours is doing. If I understand correctly it is shifting zero. I missed the chance at what would have been the state record white tail because the scope failed. When hunting you never know when you’ll get that one shot.

back to Redfield, I only have a sample size of one, but my hunting buddy had one and IIRC it did pretty much the same thing as yours. Worst case you could call or email Leupold. If they fix it, put it on a casual shooter. I personally use Leupold because they supposedly have one of the most rugged scopes made
 
FWIW Leupolds (M8 and Vari X) have a long standing quirk...............tapping turrets was a thing.
Dunno how that may apply to newer models.
Seemed to be more of an issue on lesser recoil stuff.

The Revolution IIRC has the same turret type as the VX1.

Those IMHO are set and forget, not to be used for dialing up n down for range.
 
The Revolution IIRC has the same turret type as the VX1.

Yeah, my understanding is that the Revolution is very close to being. rebadged VX-1. The reticle is different.

Those IMHO are set and forget, not to be used for dialing up n down for range.

I wonder if that is true is for all scopes with caps over the adjustment dials. (As opposed to dials that are permanently exposed and usually oversized-you know, the "tacticool" scopes.)
 
When hunting you never know when you’ll get that one shot.

That's my line of thinking, too. Thinking about just buying a new scope-probably a Vortex Diamondback in the same 4-12x40 format. I don't need the best glass for aiming the gun. I'm not sexing animals or counting brow tines with the scope-I have binos and a spotter for that, but I do need repeatable and dependable crosshairs that I can adjust without losing zero.
 
IIRC its a weak bias spring thats the problem.
Burris way back showed in their advertising that they used 2 springs...unlike the Gold ring guys. This back.in late 80s.

PD blasting buds tired of the Leupold shuffle got Burris. They tracked. But the lesser w quality of image had em go back to Leupold.

There are way more options these days, but dunno.what is good.
 
When the Revolution was introduced, it was a rebadged VX-1. They made them cheaper because there were no options for different reticles or other options that were offered for the VX-1. But the VX-1 was upgraded several times while the Revolution stayed the same. Depending on when it was made a VX-1 could be a much better scope.

Pretty much all Leupold scopes hold zero pretty well if you sight it in and leave it alone. They all, even the more expensive ones, don't do well if you're constantly fiddling with adjustments. While 1 click is supposed to be 1/4" at 100 yards that isn't always so with Leupold.

If you have it zeroed and for some reason move the elevation dial up 10 clicks there is no guarantee 10 clicks down will get it back to the same zero. It may take 8, or 12.

Forget money. IME this is a better scope than anything made by Leupold selling at or under $300.

Amazon.com: BURRIS FullField II 3-9x40 Scope, Ballistic Plex Reticle, Matte Black (200162) : Everything Else


They make it in a 4.5-14X42 and a 6.5-20X50 for a little more. I've used, and highly recommend the 2 lower powered scopes. No experience with the bigger one.
 
Did it lose zero or never get zeroed?
(after you checked turret adj range )

It wouldn't return to zero. It was zeroed. I made significant adjustments, then shot a few rounds, then reversed those adjustments, and it was no longer zeroed.

I've never had issues with it. I've taken 4 caribou with it in the past 6 years. But this is the first time I've ever turned the turrets since zeroing it 7-8 years ago.
 
They all, even the more expensive ones, don't do well if you're constantly fiddling with adjustments. While 1 click is supposed to be 1/4" at 100 yards that isn't always so with Leupold.

If you have it zeroed and for some reason move the elevation dial up 10 clicks there is no guarantee 10 clicks down will get it back to the same zero. It may take 8, or 12.

This is kind of my concern. That, basically, I broke it when I decided to adjust the turrets. My other concern is that all scopes that have capped turrets are going to be that way. I feel like a good quality scope will be repeatable, meaning you can up 20 clicks, shoot, go right 20 clicks, shoot, go down clicks, shoot, then go left 20 clicks, and you should have 4 holes in a square. 1/4 MOA should equal 1/4 MOA along both axis moving in any direction.

Perhaps my expectations are too high?

In other news, I used this same scope in my first F-Class match today. Added 55 clicks up. Took my first sighter. cam down a few clicks and left 8 clicks and then put 18 out of 20 rounds in the black, 4 in the 10 and 9 rings at 600 yards. More experienced shooters with much more expensive equipment were a bit surprised.

But. I'll bet money when I go back to the range this weekend that I'll turn the turret down 55 clicks and it won't be back to a 200 yrd zero.
 
The nightforce br scope has covered turrets and it tracks just fine and has for years. If your shooting and don't have faith in your turrets, a graduated reticle is the fix. I prefer 2 moa hash marks because 1x is to busy. Some like mrad and that's fine also. I prefer to dial for zero and hold based on the retical.
 
If your shooting and don't have faith in your turrets, a graduated reticle is the fix.
This Redfield scope has that, but only 300 and 500 yards, and they're not that accurate. Plus, I was shooting to 600 today. That said, I'm looking at the graduations on the Vortex Diamondback reticle, and they seem well laid out with plenty of range.

I prefer to dial for zero and hold based on the retical.

I somewhat agree. For taget shooting applications, I definitely agree. For hunting, meh, not so much. I've never really had time to dial turrets prior to taking an animal. Or, at least I've never taken the time. I can think of one occasion where I used to Kentucky Windage when I probably had time to turn the turrets. Everything else was either within the 200 yard zero, or was moving too fast
 
This Redfield scope has that, but only 300 and 500 yards, and they're not that accurate. Plus, I was shooting to 600 today. That said, I'm looking at the graduations on the Vortex Diamondback reticle, and they seem well laid out with plenty of range.



I somewhat agree. For taget shooting applications, I definitely agree. For hunting, meh, not so much. I've never really had time to dial turrets prior to taking an animal. Or, at least I've never taken the time. I can think of one occasion where I used to Kentucky Windage when I probably had time to turn the turrets. Everything else was either within the 200 yard zero, or was moving too fast
The rp2 reticle by nightforce is what I have in my scope. The rp1 is to busy with double the amount.... most reticle are calibrated to max power in second focal plane. upload_2023-6-24_3-3-24.png upload_2023-6-24_3-3-24.png
 
I have a couple Athlon HMRs (one Argos, one Midas) with capped turrets that track perfectly so far. The Midas sits on my 7mag and thats been run out and back from 100-900+yds a few times

The Argos is on my smokeless muzzleloader and ive only used it too a couple hundred, but the clicks move the bullet the expected distance and its survived a few hundred rounds of 325ftxs at 2300fps.

My newer leupolds all have turrets ment for dialing and they have been pretty decent, but i remember having to tap on (or fire a couple shots)the Vari-Xs ive owned.....those were always MPBR and/or Kentucky windage scopes.

The FFe1s ive had have been pretty decent....

If you dont mind rather tall turrets one of my favorite options in the 350 range are the Sightron S-tacs.
 
The Redfield Revolution 4-12X doesn't have adj objective.
That, to me suggests "set and forget".
Had two reticle choices, Duplex or Accurange.

I never considered the Accurange to be exact, was just more marks to use after you found out how your load corresponded. I cant remember if my 4-12X Rev was Accurange or not, did have that on a 2-7X (on a 16" coyote AR).
 
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If a scope isn’t repeating, it’s broken. A box test or tall target test will give answers really quickly. Think about what has to be happening for a scope to not repeat - it’s just a screw inside, pressing against a spring loaded tube. If the tube is sticking, it’s not freely moving, and the spring isn’t keeping the tube against the screw. If the screw isn’t repeating, it means the threading must be damaged internally - how many bolts have you ever turned which skipped a thread, and what do we call it when they do, and what do we do with those bolts when that happened?

So it’s simple - it should only take ~4-12 rounds to decide if the scope is smoked or not. Box test and have your answer in minutes.
 
...most reticle are calibrated to max power in second focal plane...

Yeah, I had to do a little reading to grasp the differences in focal planes. 2nd focal plane is fine for my use. This is a 4-12 scope that has never...ever...been on anything other than 12x. I hunt on open tundra. Even at 100 yards, 12x isn't "too much zoom." Honestly, if manufacturers still made them, I could just buy a fixed power scope. (Maybe I can find a Unertl on etsy, lol.)
 
Two reasons to upgrade. Better glass for the money out there now, get rid of the doubt.
I think this is my conclusion, too. Looking at replacement cost of the scope, like for like, (or even slightly better)...I'll spend more money on gas in my truck on my next hunt than I will on the scope.
 
I never considered the Accurange to be exact, was just more marks to use after you found out how your load corresponded.

That has been my experience with the Accurange reticle, too, and I've heard that is true about virtually all BDC reticles from every manufacturer. With mine, I could be zeroed at 200 yrds, but if I used the BDC for 300, it would always be low-not enough to miss an animal, but enough to call it inaccurate.
 
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