J-frame trigger improvement

viking499

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Feb 9, 2007
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Anyone ever swapped out springs on a J-frame? Worth the time and money? What springs do you recommend?
 
What J frame do you have that you’re asking about? What are your goals in asking?
What ammo do you shoot?
Is this a carry gun?
What is the perceived problem that may require a spring change?
 
Best upgrade is a K-frame.

I will say that the J-frame isn't so bad that it cannot be made to fire accurately. It's just that there are revolvers that are much easier to use well. When I contemplate needing to win a fight with it, the J-frame turns me off for so many reasons, not the least of which is the trigger.
 
Just kidding, I got to shoot a j-frame recently and was impressed with how much better the trigger reset is than in the lcr. Interested to hear how the first part can be improved
 
I installed an Apex Tactical “Duty Carry Spring Kit” in my 442. I installed this kit because I have had my gun since 1997. I was getting light primer strikes. Not good in a carry gun. I ordered factory springs and installed them. All of a sudden I remembered how tight this gun was when I bought it.
Anyway, I installed the Apex kit and my gun runs like a top and the trigger pull is very nice compared to the new factory springs.

https://www.apextactical.com/j-frame-duty-carry-spring-kit
 
I have a Model 36 and a 638. Both of them got a set of Apex springs and the 36 had some minor polishing done on it. DA pull on the 36 went from a touch over 13lbs to 8 1/2. The 638 was around the same and now breaks at 9 lbs. Both have shot reliably for me, and I shoot them better with the lighter trigger pull. The 638 is my daily carry.
 
Best upgrade is a K-frame.

I will say that the J-frame isn't so bad that it cannot be made to fire accurately. It's just that there are revolvers that are much easier to use well. When I contemplate needing to win a fight with it, the J-frame turns me off for so many reasons, not the least of which is the trigger.

The OP didn't ask whatever question you're trying to answer.
 
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Anyone ever swapped out springs on a J-frame? Worth the time and money? What springs do you recommend?

I put a TK Custom kit in a 637. Reduced the DA trigger pull by around 4 pounds, the SA by around 2 pounds. One of the best triggers of my S&Ws. It's a great 'fun gun'. but might be too light for a carry gun. You'll have to check to make sure it's 100% reliable.

Wolff springs would allow you to fine tune it a little more than a 'kit' which has just two springs and you're forced to use them. Either way, a J-frame S&W can have a wonderful trigger.
 
I lightened springs and polished internals on this S&W Model 37.

IMO, the J frame benefits more with trigger work than other S&W models because not much attention was paid at the factory, but yet the engineering and mostly similar components are there waiting like a diamond in the ruff. Springs swaps alone will help, but polishing is really where it is at.

View attachment 1139526
 
I wouldnt mess with the springs. Id just work on improving the power in the trigger puller. ;)

Ive had number of J Frames over the decades and still have a couple. I always thought the factory triggers were fine to shoot with, as were/are all of my S&W's and actually, all the others as well.
 
I used the Apex kit and like Tallball’s Wolf spring kit it helped out a bit. The trigger pull was finally able to read on my trigger pull gauge at 10lbs.
Polishing really makes a difference on these older J frames. A spring kit alone helps, but the polishing will make it every bit as good as a good K frame.
 
Wolff springs would allow you to fine tune it a little more than a 'kit' which has just two springs and you're forced to use them. Either way, a J-frame S&W can have a wonderful trigger.
My buddy did that on his Model 10 with very good results. He wanted a smoother and lighter trigger pull and that is just what he go and he likes it a lot with a Wolff kit.
 
You have to watch the Wolff leaf type springs with the "rib". They need to redesign the position of the rib, as it puts the strain screw in it, where it bottoms out, and you actually lose power due to it and may encounter light strikes. A small shim, something on the order of a primer cup without the anvil works well, but you shouldnt have to do it.
 
There is bad information in this thread. The J-frame trigger cannot be made anything like a KLN frame. No amount of polishing or spring reduction will do that. The geometry of the trigger and hammer are not altered by polishing or spring weights. The trigger will always have a spike in pressure before a let-off and then the sear will break. A person considering the prospect of working on or modifying a j-frame trigger should know this truth about it and not be deceived about the potential for results.
 
There is bad information in this thread. A person considering the prospect of working on or modifying a j-frame trigger should know this truth about it and not be deceived about the potential for results.

I disagree. The trigger pull on my Model 60, polished and with lighter springs, is as good or better than my Performance Center L-Frames and old Model 66. It's one of the best S&W triggers I've felt.
 
63 and 442 with Wolff springs made a great improvement. Don't touch the engagement surfaces but polish the sides of everything that moves or slides.
Smoothest DA small frame in our house is a SP101 and an old 36 heavy barrel, adj sight 38 belonging to Childbride.
 
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