Keeping snow from packing in boot treads

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I dunno, I think you were on to something in your first theory. Thousand gram thinsulate is probably for the uppers. My Pac boots have pretty thick soles to keep my feet away from the cold.

To the OP, I added insulating sole inserts to my pac boots, and they help a lot. Might be worth a try. I've never noticed a problem with snow in my boot treads.

I don't think the PAM will remain on your boot soles very long, especially if they are oil resistant. Besides, I'm sure the bears will love that. lol
The liner looks the same thickness all over. I did have to take out the pad inside to fit with my think wool socks. So I can't see any insulation. Wish I had some silicone spray lol.

I'd love to get some mucks but they don't fit me. And the other rubber boots with the zipper for your cafes are pricey to. I could really used some this year.
 
So is the issue the extra weight of the snow or the loss of traction? Seems that the conditions that would make snow, stick to boots, like the Red Gumbo Clay we have around here, would be very rare at most. I have several pairs of boots with much more aggressive soles that what you have shown us(Vibram) and while my wife complains all the time about the amount of dirt and mud they track in the house, I have yet in all the years of hunting in snow, to have them fill up enough with snow to have any real effect on walking. Living in Wisconsin for 65 years and between hunting and working construction, I have had a tad bit of experience with snow and boots. While I don't doubt your experience, I do think it is something that happens so rarely that to go to any great lengths to prevent it is probably more bother than it is worth. IMHO, It would seem it is not the boots or the outsole, but the condition of the weather and the snow. Any type of lubricant, even only within the tread would give less traction in snow. Cold snow/temperatures would tend to thicken any lubricant and make it sticky, thus attracting dirt/debris and snow within the tread. IME, snow conditions change sometimes within hours. Sometimes from one side of the hill to the other or from shaded areas to open and exposed areas. Weight of one's boots, the condition of the wearer, amount of exercise the wearer is used to and terrain, would seem to me to have more influence on walking in snow, than any amount of snow stuck in the treads. Every year I find it harder and harder to walk in hilly country, deep snow or mud. That first morning of turkey season, climbing to the top of the ridge where the birds roost, with a 20# pack on my back,after sitting around all winter, almost kills me. Four days later, not so bad.
 
So is the issue the extra weight of the snow or the loss of traction? Seems that the conditions that would make snow, stick to boots, like the Red Gumbo Clay we have around here, would be very rare at most. I have several pairs of boots with much more aggressive soles that what you have shown us(Vibram) and while my wife complains all the time about the amount of dirt and mud they track in the house, I have yet in all the years of hunting in snow, to have them fill up enough with snow to have any real effect on walking. Living in Wisconsin for 65 years and between hunting and working construction, I have had a tad bit of experience with snow and boots. While I don't doubt your experience, I do think it is something that happens so rarely that to go to any great lengths to prevent it is probably more bother than it is worth. IMHO, It would seem it is not the boots or the outsole, but the condition of the weather and the snow. Any type of lubricant, even only within the tread would give less traction in snow. Cold snow/temperatures would tend to thicken any lubricant and make it sticky, thus attracting dirt/debris and snow within the tread. IME, snow conditions change sometimes within hours. Sometimes from one side of the hill to the other or from shaded areas to open and exposed areas. Weight of one's boots, the condition of the wearer, amount of exercise the wearer is used to and terrain, would seem to me to have more influence on walking in snow, than any amount of snow stuck in the treads. Every year I find it harder and harder to walk in hilly country, deep snow or mud. That first morning of turkey season, climbing to the top of the ridge where the birds roost, with a 20# pack on my back,after sitting around all winter, almost kills me. Four days later, not so bad.
I would second and add in the type of tread makes a huge difference in traction on different surfaces, especially with snow. Most traditional pac boots don't have deep lug soles for a reason. The dot and ridges or waffle pattern soles tend to do a better job compacting snow and keeping traction over the lug style. If you look at the bottom of the shoe and it looks like a flat surface with grooves going in, it's likely to pack up with snow (or mud) which leaves you with an overall flat, smooth, and slick surface. The designs that are bumps, protrusions, and ridges coming up from the flat bottom do a much better job staying clear and giving traction. The downside is they tend to wear out a lot faster walking on concrete and have less traction on hard surfaces.
 
I dunno, I think you were on to something in your first theory. Thousand gram thinsulate is probably for the uppers. My Pac boots have pretty thick soles to keep my feet away from the cold.

To the OP, I added insulating sole inserts to my pac boots, and they help a lot. Might be worth a try. I've never noticed a problem with snow in my boot treads.

I don't think the PAM will remain on your boot soles very long, especially if they are oil resistant. Besides, I'm sure the bears will love that. lol

I've used Pam on snow shovels. It lasts about 5 min
 
So is the issue the extra weight of the snow or the loss of traction? Seems that the conditions that would make snow, stick to boots, like the Red Gumbo Clay we have around here, would be very rare at most. I have several pairs of boots with much more aggressive soles that what you have shown us(Vibram) and while my wife complains all the time about the amount of dirt and mud they track in the house, I have yet in all the years of hunting in snow, to have them fill up enough with snow to have any real effect on walking. Living in Wisconsin for 65 years and between hunting and working construction, I have had a tad bit of experience with snow and boots. While I don't doubt your experience, I do think it is something that happens so rarely that to go to any great lengths to prevent it is probably more bother than it is worth. IMHO, It would seem it is not the boots or the outsole, but the condition of the weather and the snow. Any type of lubricant, even only within the tread would give less traction in snow. Cold snow/temperatures would tend to thicken any lubricant and make it sticky, thus attracting dirt/debris and snow within the tread. IME, snow conditions change sometimes within hours. Sometimes from one side of the hill to the other or from shaded areas to open and exposed areas. Weight of one's boots, the condition of the wearer, amount of exercise the wearer is used to and terrain, would seem to me to have more influence on walking in snow, than any amount of snow stuck in the treads. Every year I find it harder and harder to walk in hilly country, deep snow or mud. That first morning of turkey season, climbing to the top of the ridge where the birds roost, with a 20# pack on my back,after sitting around all winter, almost kills me. Four days later, not so bad.
They got very slick, felt like walking on ice with warm shoes. The tread were filling up in only a few steps. And after last then 50 feet became a ball of snow. That snow that day was the type to make a snow man wen we were kids. We're you can start rolling a snow ball into a giant one. He treads always filed up in the past but did not get as slippery.
 
Warm wet snow is sticky and slippery. Colder snow is better. I think your grooves are too tight and not deep enough. Bigger wider spaced lugs and not worn down shed snow better I think. I hunt in snow a lot and I rarely have a problem with a variety of boots. I guess I so used to it I adjust to it without thinking about it.
 
They got very slick, felt like walking on ice with warm shoes. The tread were filling up in only a few steps. And after last then 50 feet became a ball of snow. That snow that day was the type to make a snow man wen we were kids. We're you can start rolling a snow ball into a giant one. He treads always filed up in the past but did not get as slippery.

Again, I think the chance of encountering the same conditions is so low, that anything you do will probably deter grip during all other conditions. I used to use a wax type ski for cross country skiing. Problem was, that no matter how much attention to detail I made of the snow condition and the ambient temperatures, the grip and glide waxes I used generally became a determent from one part of the day to the other. While the wax worked great on the south side of the hills, it sucked big time on the north. Used to be, one accepted the fact you had to change wax as the day wore on, or as the wax wore off. That's why I now use waxless skis. Trying to have the perfect traction and glide waxes for one condition just wasn't worth the effort. Having something that worked well in most conditions, all the time with no effort, made more sense. Especially when one was out all day, when conditions would change due to temperature change and amount of sun. Those few times when the snow and temps made for the worst skiing, were the worst conditions regardless of what wax you used. Kinda how I look at your boot scenario.
 
Sometimes the snow is just stick to your tread consistency but in the last decade or so I've been using Lacrosse alpha burleys and they seem better than most for self cleaning. They do freeze to the stands kinda bad, must be the insulation (use 1500gr in season to sit longer). I notice less slips and falls with their lugs also, they are just getting so expensive.
 
Again, I think the chance of encountering the same conditions is so low, that anything you do will probably deter grip during all other conditions. I used to use a wax type ski for cross country skiing. Problem was, that no matter how much attention to detail I made of the snow condition and the ambient temperatures, the grip and glide waxes I used generally became a determent from one part of the day to the other. While the wax worked great on the south side of the hills, it sucked big time on the north. Used to be, one accepted the fact you had to change wax as the day wore on, or as the wax wore off. That's why I now use waxless skis. Trying to have the perfect traction and glide waxes for one condition just wasn't worth the effort. Having something that worked well in most conditions, all the time with no effort, made more sense. Especially when one was out all day, when conditions would change due to temperature change and amount of sun. Those few times when the snow and temps made for the worst skiing, were the worst conditions regardless of what wax you used. Kinda how I look at your boot scenario.
did so me small game hunting this morning. I got cold last night 10° boots were fine today with the crunchie snow. Where was about 1/2 inch of ice under the light dusting of snow.
 
Sometimes the snow is just stick to your tread consistency but in the last decade or so I've been using Lacrosse alpha burleys and they seem better than most for self cleaning. They do freeze to the stands kinda bad, must be the insulation (use 1500gr in season to sit longer). I notice less slips and falls with their lugs also, they are just getting so expensive.
boots are hard to find that for me. I have a short foot but it's wide and I have a high arch, plus I have very large calfs. Makes boot shooting difficult, if I had money for custom boots that would help.
 
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