So where are you at with this one Hawg?
That’s the way… can’t wait to see the results!After working on it for awhile I get tired of it and won't touch it again for a few days.
Looks good! I like the color you chose.
I like the new look in any rifle. After a while it will certainly look used and that’s a great look too.It looks about like it did last time. I'm not extremely happy with it but it is what it is. Maybe one day I'll get an urge to give it another try but today is not that day. The steel parts came out ok I guess. I neutralized the iron nitrate and went over it with 0000 steel wool and 3 in 1 oil. I still have to put the lock back together. I've polished the butt plate and ramrod thimbles up to 12,000 grit. They shine like a diamond in a goats butt. Not exactly what I wanted but once I got started on polishing the previous grits out I couldn't stop (7+" It will mellow out in time. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
I like the new look in any rifle. After a while it will certainly look used and that’s a great look too.
Well, you don’t strike me as a stitch counter type guy anyway…It's too glossy for the time period but then I browned the metal and that's not proper either.
Drag about the lock. Is it made by Kibler or is it a Davis or Chambers or L&R? I would take real close look at the sear spring, if its out of place it can cause the problems you describe. Is there any chance some wood finish found its way into the lock?
Does the lock have a warranty? If so I would send back for repairs or replacement.
I think they will put them back together, I remember Jim saying some people couldn't get there's back together properly.
I don't know some people that start these kits barley know how to tie there shoes let alone build things. Sounds like you need some more clearance in the stock so blacken the lock and see where it's hitting.I don't understand that it's a pretty simple mechanism. Maybe they encountered the same problem I did and gave up on it. I just took mine back apart and sanded all the iron nitrate off the back of the lock plate and it works now. At least it works out of the stock. However it doesn't work in the stock. This thing is turning into one big headache.
I don't know some people that start these kits barley know how to tie there shoes let alone build things. Sounds like you need some more clearance in the stock so blacken the lock and see where it's hitting.
I’d call Jim and see what he thinks about it. 5 bucks says he’s able to fix it over the phone…
4f is for the pan is it not? N pyrodex does not work well if at all in a flintlock... don't ask how I was reminded of thatI can’t wait to see this come together for you.
Psst! Please! For the love of all that’s holy! Don’t use Pyrodex! (Or FFFFG!) anywhere near this fine rifle!!