Lee Auto drum issue

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Chuck59

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I've been using the auto drum on 9mm and .357 with easy to drop powders for a couple of years. Worked well.
Decided to load some 44 mag with Herco, and occasionally had some very low charges. (!) Had a closer look, and
47230799031_77fbfb7f4e_k.jpg 2019-02-27_02-19-23 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
the charge cavity is only half open.
Completely disassembled it, and don't see any obvious thing I can do to make it work. It also doesn't completely turn to the open position. I tried to contact Lee through their web site, and kept getting an error. I see where people on here call them, but I haven't found a phone number..
Thanks!
 
Try this out
Lee Precision Customer Service
Monday through Friday 7:30am-3:45pm Central Standard Time (CST)
phone: (262) 673-3075
 
Just guessing but screwing the die down a bit will result in the case going up the die farther which will rotate the disk more.
(also give more flare which you may or may not want)
 
With the drum out, actuate the drop several times with a cartridge and see if the gear work moves freely. Look for grit or powder in the gears. I use an old paint brush to clean mine out when changing drums. If the gear work is good, make sure the drum and assembly are totally clean, assemble, and tighten. Actuate the powder drop several times and tighten until it does not return all the way to the top. Then loosen just enough to get full travel. Looking in the top of the unit without the hopper, does the charging chamber come fully to the top now? If not, try loosening just a little, actuate, and check again. If working properly, you should be able to get it adjusted for full travel.

Hope you get it working! (I have "heard" of the internal gears in the body of the unit getting out of sync or somehow out of alignment. Lee should make it good for you. They replaced the main metal body and gears on one of my AutoDrum units that cracked at no charge)
 
Just guessing but screwing the die down a bit will result in the case going up the die farther which will rotate the disk more.
(also give more flare which you may or may not want)

This may be close to the solution... If you are using a powder thru riser on top of the die, make sure the riser is screwed down all the way into the die AND that the AutoDrum assembly is screwed all the way in to the riser.

Also, if not using the riser, make sure the AutoDrum is screwed all the way into the die. Either way, if it is not, you will not get full travel on the drum.

Checking this point will not change flare on your cartridges as you do not screw the die further in at all.
 
Try this out
Lee Precision Customer Service
Monday through Friday 7:30am-3:45pm Central Standard Time (CST)
phone: (262) 673-3075

Thanks for that..:thumbup:
FWIW, I took the spring out and reassembled it. It looks like the link arm is worn..but.. there is a *lot* of slop in everything that moves. I fully realize this measure is built to a price and does an exceptional job considering that. I think I'll research a more substantial one.
I'm open to suggestions.. and thanks again!
 
So will another brand replace the Drum measure with a feed thru the die, on a Lee new style 4 hole turret press?
 
Thanks for that..:thumbup:
FWIW, I took the spring out and reassembled it. It looks like the link arm is worn..but.. there is a *lot* of slop in everything that moves. I fully realize this measure is built to a price and does an exceptional job considering that. I think I'll research a more substantial one.
I'm open to suggestions.. and thanks again!

If the sector gears are not engaged properly/correctly, the position of the rotor is affected.
Take it apart again and advance or retard the gear mesh one tooth and try that.
You can re-assemble it without the spring and push/pull the spindle to check the drum alignment with the hopper.
I checked the manual online and these internal gear sectors are not even shown :thumbdown:.
good luck,
:D
 
Yeah, I did that. Assembled it without the spring. Tried moving the engagement one tooth. That didn't work. Tried shimming under the spring. Tried shimming under the actuator arm. Every thing I tried either didn't give a full throw or align properly at rest at the same time. :) Apparently, it has always been this way, but with easy to measure powders, I never noticed. Not so much with Herco. It doesn't play well together with the small opening.
I'll call Lee tomorrow.. thanks to the list for the unobtainable phone number..:) but I expect to be sent to the "another dummy that can't read the instructions" department. For what it's worth, I've been a machinist for over 50 years, and have run my own machine shop for 33. To me, it looks like they designed it to not open fully at rest. Maybe I'll know tomorrow..
 
Yeah, I did that. Assembled it without the spring. Tried moving the engagement one tooth. That didn't work. Tried shimming under the spring. Tried shimming under the actuator arm. Every thing I tried either didn't give a full throw or align properly at rest at the same time. :) Apparently, it has always been this way, but with easy to measure powders, I never noticed. Not so much with Herco. It doesn't play well together with the small opening.
I'll call Lee tomorrow.. thanks to the list for the unobtainable phone number..:) but I expect to be sent to the "another dummy that can't read the instructions" department. For what it's worth, I've been a machinist for over 50 years, and have run my own machine shop for 33. To me, it looks like they designed it to not open fully at rest. Maybe I'll know tomorrow..
I am not impressed with the auto drum design either, the need for a heavy spring to operate it was the 1st sign the gear size/design is undersize.
I didn't use it long and went back to the auto disk because I can unhook the spring in my setup, put a case under it and hand throw a charge or ten to weigh and average.
MirrorS.jpg
:D
 
I just bought one a few weeks ago, and brand new the drum opening looks just like yours, with a little offset.

Looking at mine, it appears that is the way it is designed. Didn't get a chance to call Lee today, life got in the way..:) All I can say is it doesn't like Herco, Sam I am. The opening is about 50%. There is probably some arcane reason for that I don't understand..there is a *lot* that I don't know.
 
I have 3. As long as I don't over tighten the drum, they all go back to full open. This will then allow a little more leakage, which I don't like, but put up with.
 
So mine is the same and I have only loaded perhaps a 100 44 Magnums. Is it because if its all the way open all the weight of the powder in the measure would cause to to pack down and overcharge say the first round loaded?

B. Is there a replacement other than Lee for this which will work on the turret press?
 
I *think* I was getting bridging on flake powder. Occasionally 1 or more grains light. (!) For what it's worth, I bought the new Lyman "Brass smith" powder measure from Amazon for $40 delivered. :thumbup:
It is very well made, sturdy, and initial testing I did today was good. I dropped 10 straight 13 grain loads without being .1 off on any. Now, getting it to work automatically on the Lee case expander and powder drop die might be a challenge. :) I *think* the Hornady case activated linkage will work with it.
Searching on here didn't show up anything except people scoffing at their new 8 hole turret press. If it is made as well as the powder measure, it's probably ok, and Amazon has them, too. My old Lee is obsolete, and I just may have a yella press in the shop some day. ;)
 
Chuck I have never been 100% happy with any Lee powder measure and now discovering today this one does not open all the way to fill has me wondering again. I am wanting to find a solution and not keep screwing around. Both the Dillons I owned and then sold when I got out reloading were right on.
Let us know how that Lyman turns out.

I went out to the cold shop and took mine apart. No matter loose or tight the nut was it never went to full open, maybe 2/3 or so. Is everyones that same way or only recent ones made in the past year or so??
 
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I bought one because people raved about them and I haven’t found it to be all that great either. Mine grinds to a halt with fine ball powders like AA9.
 
Mine is over 2 years old, broken twice and returned twice. Since the last return if has been flawless. It returns to Top Dead Center after each cycle and while using AA#2, AA#5 and Ramshot Silhouette I get less loose powder from leaking than I do from spillage when the shell plate turns. I also use a Pro Auto Disk measure with no measurable leakage. So if you are having this much trouble with your measure then send it back. Don't fight it, don't bitch about it, just send it back for repair.

For those that don't know, Dillon pays patent right fees to Lee for their powder measures. Look it up.
 
Mine is over 2 years old, broken twice and returned twice. Since the last return if has been flawless. It returns to Top Dead Center after each cycle and while using AA#2, AA#5 and Ramshot Silhouette I get less loose powder from leaking than I do from spillage when the shell plate turns. I also use a Pro Auto Disk measure with no measurable leakage. So if you are having this much trouble with your measure then send it back. Don't fight it, don't bitch about it, just send it back for repair.

For those that don't know, Dillon pays patent right fees to Lee for their powder measures. Look it up.

I have the Auto Disc, too.. and it works pretty well. I also have the adjustable charge bar, but I'm considering making one out of aluminum. It doesn't seem to do very well with small charges.
"Broken twice and returned twice" sounds to me like shipping would cost more than a new one.. not to mention the aggravation of doing it. After thinking about it for a while, I've decided to go another way, even if it costs considerably more.
I've used Lee equipment since the 70s, and admire their ability to build to a price. Very clever designs.
 
That is frustrating... quality control on these must not be as good as the ones I have (5). Could be their supplier of parts (particularly the cast body) is not up to the standard needed. Hope you find what you need.
 
I have the Auto-Drums and use them quite a bit, but they could definitely be better. I wish they would get away from using the plastic drum and go with something better.
 
Well I am wondering if the phone call to Lee produced any results. But after I saw the not centered position on mine, that explains why I had such a difficult time getting it to meter the same every time.
 
"Broken twice and returned twice" sounds to me like shipping would cost more than a new one.. not to mention the aggravation of doing it. After thinking about it for a while, I've decided to go another way, even if it costs considerably more..

Moving on to something else is always an option. I chose to move back to the Disk measure while I waited for the return. Each time it only cost me $6.00 to mail it back to them and both times because I only live about 55 miles away they had it next day and I had it back within 2 days of that. So just 3 to 4 days to turnaround a repair I would guess is pretty good.

Next the one I have is a very early model as I bought it right after they were released and have heard there have been improvements made. I also paid less than $45.00 including shipping for this measure. I have read and heard stories of people that bought those expensive electric powder measures for 3X this amount and had them fail also. Heck I know of people that pay much more than this for fancy Smart Phones and treat them as disposable. Funny how that works.

Yes I have 1 Drum and 3 Disk measures that are all used on either turrets or progressive presses.
 
Went out to the shop today, killing time waiting for my 45 ACP dies and Bayou bullet order. Between the large drum and the small drum the difference is really noticeable. I put the small reducer into the large drum and its about 1/3 off. So decided just to use the small drum and be done with it. Must be a difference between the large and small drum CNC machine the way the holes are indexed.
 
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