Lee Pro 6000 unboxing and testing for OAL consistency

Problem: Priming chute/trough pin does not contact the frame column groove rings enough to shake the primer tray

Solution: Rotate the top carrier cover counter-clockwise when tightening the two flathead metal screws while ensuring the priming rod/pin moves up and down freely.

When the two top carrier cover flathead screws are tightened, if no attention is given to where the pin is in relation to the frame column/groove ring, then top cover will be tightened with pin not contacting the frame column/groove rings.

To prevent this, when you tighten the two top carrier cover flathead screws (while holding the bottom cover with your hand), see if you can place the primer chute/trough pin in the lower groove ring by torquing the cover counter-clockwise before tightening to put more pressure on the pin (But ensure the priming pin moves up and down freely).

With the pin closer to the frame column/groove rings, adding the DIY pen filler sleeve roller mod will help shake the primer tray better (Also, if you have additional trays, try others and use the one that moves the primers to chute/trough opening the best).

When I torqued the top carrier cover too much, I noticed binding of priming rod/pin to not move up and down freely (because bottom cover is held captive by the ram), so I backed off the torquing of top carrier cover but that resulted in the pin not contacting the bottom groove ring (pin contacted the top groove ring fine to shake the primer tray). With the DIY pen filler sleeve roller mod for the pin, it now contacts the lower groove ring as well and contacts the upper groove ring to shake the primer tray more.

When John Lee redesigned the priming rod/pin, he may not have realized that reshaped rod/pin could be addressing another issue of primer tray not shaking enough due to pin not contacting the groove rings and I will be testing that when the new priming pin arrives. Stay tuned.

When I have been tightening the two flathead metal screws I have been watching to make sure the locator pin was centered in the hole on the carrier cover. I have not been watching the pin for the primer tray. Which is more critical? They both are. If the locator pin is not centered it can drag when the carrier goes up and down, and if the primer tray doesn't get shaken the primers will not feed consistently. Will take a look, but I think Lee may need to take a look at the lack of the primer tray being shaken enough. I did try another tray and found that one of the new trays I received with the press was pressed together in the middle and was restricting primer flow. The one I am using now is one I have used for quite some time on my Load-Master without any problems. The Load-Master gives the trays a good shake with the raised bumps on the side, the Six Pack Pro not as much. This is one area that may take a little more "fine tuning".
 
NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency, troubleshooting/solutions with factory updates on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12481108
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When I have been tightening the two flathead metal screws I have been watching to make sure the locator pin was centered in the hole on the carrier cover. I have not been watching the pin for the primer tray. Which is more critical? They both are. If the locator pin is not centered it can drag when the carrier goes up and down
I did the same and focused on the "locator" index pin centering in the carrier cover hole when I initially did the disassembly/reassembly but after doing the disassembly/reassembly 15 times, I started to notice other alignment/centering points.

So now when I reassemble the top and bottom carrier covers, I do the following:
  • Lower the bottom cover on press base and make sure the detent spring and ball, index gear shaft, priming rod/pin and spring are properly positioned
  • Lower the ram while ensuring detent ball/index gear shaft/priming pin do not tilt
  • Ensure detent ball, index gear shaft and priming pin are properly placed with/through the top carrier cover
  • Raise the ram while holding the carrier with both covers held with one hand
  • Rotate the top cover to apply some pressure with primer chute/trough pin in the lower groove ring
  • Tighten the two flathead screws while checking free movement of the priming rod/pin
  • Raise the ram further to tighten the panhead screw at bottom cover

But what about the "locator" index pin alignment with the top cover hole?

After 15 disassembly/reassembly, even though I tightened the two flathead screws with the carrier raised and while slightly rotating the top cover to increase pin contact with groove ring, "locator" index pin always went through the hole in the top cover. This may be due to the inherent spacing around the pin from design and manufacturing.

Of course, if you over torque the top cover, top cover could end up twisted with the bottom cover held captive by the ram and even hindered free movement of priming rod/pin up and down.

I think Lee may need to take a look at the lack of the primer tray being shaken enough. I did try another tray and found that one of the new trays I received with the press was pressed together in the middle and was restricting primer flow. The one I am using now is one I have used for quite some time on my Load-Master without any problems ... This is one area that may take a little more "fine tuning".
I agree. I tested two different primer trays and while one is flat in the center, the other one has very slight bowing out which flowed the primers better against the built-in flip rings of the tray.

I will send Calvin an email regarding the flip rings built-in to the primer trays and perhaps they can be redesigned to allow smoother "flow" of primers down towards the chute/trough opening without hanging up (Or even the entire primer tray design redone) so slight agitation of the primer tray produced by SPP can "flow" the primers better.

ETA: I just took a closer look at the primer trays and where the primers get caught is at the side of trays towards the bottom. I am thinking about shaving the flip rings off at this area so primers cannot get stuck and slide freely. Stay tuned ... I will post an update after doing the mod.
 
NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency, troubleshooting/solutions with factory updates on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12481108
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ETA: I just took a closer look at the primer trays and where the primers get caught is at the side of trays towards the bottom. I am thinking about shaving the flip rings off at this area so primers cannot get stuck and slide freely. Stay tuned ... I will post an update after doing the mod.

That is the same thing I am observing, the primers are getting caught in the trays and get stuck and will not flow.
 
Updating "Press Disassembly and Reassembly" with "Enhanced top and bottom carrier cover reassembly".

NOTE: Please keep in mind that product operation and update parts information of this newly launched press is dynamic and changing with pre/early production parts; therefore, presses with different mix of production run parts may exist. While I attempt to stay current and be accurate as possible, do realize that information posted on this thread are based on my personal experience with my personal press and parts that have been clarified with contact with Lee Precision. Parts design/update/production runs/lots can vary and influence how they perform in your press.

Press Set Up
:
New Priming System:
Press Disassembly and Reassembly:
Fine tuning press operation for consistency:
Troubleshooting and Solutions:
Lee Precision Update Parts:
 
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Problem: Priming chute/trough pin does not contact the frame column groove rings enough to shake the primer tray

Solution: Rotate the top carrier cover counter-clockwise when tightening the two flathead metal screws while ensuring the priming rod/pin moves up and down freely.

When the two top carrier cover flathead screws are tightened, if no attention is given to where the pin is in relation to the frame column/groove ring, then top cover will be tightened with pin not contacting the frame column/groove rings.

To prevent this, when you tighten the two top carrier cover flathead screws (while holding the bottom cover with your hand), see if you can place the primer chute/trough pin in the lower groove ring by torquing the cover counter-clockwise before tightening to put more pressure on the pin (But ensure the priming pin moves up and down freely).

With the pin closer to the frame column/groove rings, adding the DIY pen filler sleeve roller mod will help shake the primer tray better (Also, if you have additional trays, try others and use the one that moves the primers to chute/trough opening the best).

When I torqued the top carrier cover too much, I noticed binding of priming rod/pin to not move up and down freely (because bottom cover is held captive by the ram), so I backed off the torquing of top carrier cover but that resulted in the pin not contacting the bottom groove ring (pin contacted the top groove ring fine to shake the primer tray). With the DIY pen filler sleeve roller mod for the pin, it now contacts the lower groove ring as well and contacts the upper groove ring to shake the primer tray more.

When John Lee redesigned the priming rod/pin, he may not have realized that reshaped rod/pin could be addressing another issue of primer tray not shaking enough due to pin not contacting the groove rings and I will be testing that when the new priming pin arrives. Stay tuned.

Just finished realigning the carrier cover per this post. Will see how it works, does give a little more shake to the primer trayer. Right now the priming system is my biggest trouble point. Everything else appears to be working OK, Not doing Full strokes was my biggest problem early on, after getting the sizing die and the Lee Factor Crimp die fine tuned my OAL is consistent with your finding. I am not sorting brass at this time, so there is some variation but not bad.
 
Yea, I cannot get the "auto-adjust" ping through my thick skull. Unless it is the forcing of the driver clutch to ratchet on the driven clutch which makes the noise.
I fully understand the "auto-adjust" capability of the driver clutch to line up its many teeth with driven clutch when one has rotated the shell plate by hand.
Anyway.
I will sleep on it.
Thanks
GD

Okay, after extensive testing I found the, what I would call a click noise, when the shell plate is manually moved, then held in place by the ball and because of tolerance stack the clutch engages one tooth off with the downward movement. When this happens there is enough "spring" in the driver clutch and/or index rod that the index pin will force the shell plate to correct orientation (which can be felt/heard also)and when the ram gets to bottom of travel and moves a fraction up the "click" is heard as the clutch disengages enough to move/spring one tooth making the click noise. On the next stroke the clutch engages/disengages in proper tooth position of course.
It does not appear to be able to be more than one tooth off at any time, of the 72 in the clutch (5 degrees each), when the ball is holding the shell plate in position after manual movement of the shell plate.
Many of the tests moving shell plate manually the clutch engaged in proper tooth and none of the above happened, once in a while the above situation happened.

That is my take on the only noise I was able to hear anyway. Right or wrong.

GD
 
NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency, troubleshooting/solutions with factory updates on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12481255
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Problem: Loose shellplate affecting shellplate indexing or locking up shellplate

Solution: Tighten shellplate index gear shaft tight enough to not work itself loose


When I initially disassembled my SPP, I found the shellplate loose and redid finished OAL variance test after tightening the shellplate. Now there are two more reported incidences where loose shellplate affected indexing or shellplate locking up - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-6000-press.905987/page-20#post-12482142
After the first 100, took a break, came back and ran 25 more, the shell plate wasn't indexing quite right ... went to take the shell plate off and noticed it wasn't on very tight, seems to have worked itself little loose. How much should one crank down on the drive bolt? Instruction say lightly tighten
I just snug mine down and haven't had an issue with it loosening
As to tightness of shellplate, I tightened until firm because if shellplate becomes loose, since SPP shellplate design captures the entire case base, enough shellplate movement could affect alignment with case rim to slide in freely and could cause hang up/shooting out of brass you mentioned as case slider spring applies tension.
Instructions included with SPP/Pro 6000 states to lightly tighten but I think some people are making the mistake of not tightening enough which could lead to shellplate not indexing properly or locking up. I believe what Lee Precision meant to say was to not heavily torque the shellplate tight but not so light that shellplate will work itself loose.
 
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Instructions included with SPP/Pro 6000 states to lightly tighten but I think some people are making the mistake of not tightening enough which could lead to shellplate not indexing properly or locking up. I believe what Lee Precision meant to say was to not heavily torque the shellplate tight but not so light that shellplate will work itself loose.

I think you are correct. I noticed mine misbehaving yesterday and the shellplate was loose. Usually I'm more of an over tightening type. I guess I took the lightly tighten to heart. I tightened and all worked well. I ran another 100 at lunch and checked and the plate was tight as could be. Must have been me...

-Jeff
 
I believe what Lee Precision meant to say was to not heavily torque the shellplate tight but not so light that shellplate will work itself loose.
That is the way I read it also...tight enough that it doesn't easily come loose.

I've seen, on more than one occasion, when folks read "tight" and took it to mean until something almost bent
 
NOTICE: Important product update and no charge replacement if you are experiencing priming rod/pin sticking and/or powder charging in station #2. Updated self-cleaning priming pin resolves pin sticking problem and self-cleans even though powder granules are poured/dumped in station #2.

Anyone that wants a new pin simply has to give us a call or email with address. These pins started running today, 11/30. We are still a one shift company and the machine can only run 8 hours a day, please urge patience. We will make this right to anyone that reaches out at no charge.​

As expressed, let's exercise patience as Lee Precision replaces priming pin for users who are experiencing problems.


Got this email today:

Hello John,

We read through some of THR posting going on and want to furnish some new and updated information with you to share.

In my previous communication I said we were looking into the primer sticking problem. John Lee redesigned the pin, and the resultant product is now almost goof proof. We are very fortunate the pin is easily retrofitted on any press. Every press shipped from today forward includes this pin.

Anyone that wants a new pin simply has to give us a call or email with address. These pins started running today, 11/30. We are still a one shift company and the machine can only run 8 hours a day, please urge patience. We will make this right to anyone that reaches out at no charge.

Attached are some pictures showing the primer pin and guide area. You will note a copious amount of small grained powder is present. Our redesigned primer pin will allow this incredible amount of spilled powder to be self-cleared without any user intervention. (Still try to avoid powder or debris in this area)

People are really hung up on your posts pertaining to the primer pin. The radius on the tip of the pin was not the change that prevented them from sticking in the primer pocket rather it was the diameter. That radius difference most likely came from a very minor change in the setup of the machine that run. All that is a moot point with the new pin.

Attached is a picture of the old and new side by side for positive identification.

Calvin Katzfey
Lee Precision​

New instructions on Lee site have new box expressing the need for not full travel during dry cycling to prevent sticking primer pin in dirty/contaminated primer pockets and causing a issue.


GD​
 
A few have expressed the importance of doing full strokes or trouble brews. I think that's very true when you are actually reloading, but while you're setting up and testing, there are plenty of occasions where short cycling makes it easier to test. The "new" instructions Gillie discovered makes sense, and it what I discovered working with mine.

However, be aware of the plate's alignment....if it hangs, it usually means you need to rotate the plate with a finger a little, forward or backward, until it clicks in alignment.....and make sure when you do that, that the plate is raised until it's free wheeling so that it can turn in that manner. this free-wheeling of the plate is in my opinion one of the best features of the press. Makes it easy to test and setup.

BTW, I thought you all might like to know what I discovered ordering a few parts from Lee. Really all my initial intention was, was to order another plate. (.223.....I started with 9mm) I decided to add a few low cost items to have on hand and/or to try. So I ordered the new primer pin, the retaining circle, and the longer primer shuttle. I did NOT ask for them for free.....but they changed the order on their own with a charge only for the .223 plate......and they "threw in" a primer spring I didn't even order. they are bending over backwards to make this press a success. Impressed!
 
= New redesigned "self-cleaning" priming rod/pin now allow leaky powder charging at station #2 as pin will "self-clean" powder granules dropped on top of pin and smaller diameter head won't stick in primer pockets =

Redesigned "self-cleaning" pin overview:

Continued from post #330 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12479625
So "real world" stress testing of new redesigned "self cleaning" priming pin test coming up.
Received the redesigned "self cleaning" priming pin and spent the day doing comparison with old pin and conducting stress test while finding additional benefit Lee Precision may not know about.
When John Lee redesigned the priming rod/pin, he may not have realized that reshaped rod/pin could be addressing another issue of primer tray not shaking enough due to pin not contacting the groove rings and I will be testing that when the new priming pin arrives. Stay tuned.
On post #349, we did Problem/Solution on primer chute/trough pin not contacting press column groove rings enough to shake the primer tray. Solution was two-part - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12481094
  1. Rotating top carrier cover counter-clockwise while tightening the two flathead screws on top to increase pressure on pin against groove rings
  2. Using 11/16" piece of pen filler to use as sleeve roller to further increase pressure on pin against groove rings
But solution #1 was limited by solid/straight priming pin rod/shaft binding inside the priming pin sleeve tube thus limiting how much we could twist the top cover. With the redesigned priming pin with different shaped shaft (Instead of being straight), I found I could rotate the top cover a bit further to increase pin contact with groove rings without binding with priming pin sleeve hole (And using DIY sleeve roller shook the primer tray even better).

More on this on next post, "Enhanced reassembly of top/bottom carrier covers" - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12482599

OK, back to the redesigned priming pin.

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The redesigned pin is slightly shorter at 1.845" and the head diameter is smaller at 0.170" with .244" base diameter (Slightly smaller base diameter should help with powder granule clearing from bottom carrier cover hole). The old pin is longer at 1.850" with larger head diameter of 0.173" and .245" base diameter. The spring supplied with the new pin felt slightly stiffer (I know, the springs in the picture look different but I counted the spring windings and they were same ... it's different position of spring end that makes two springs look different).

The diameter of the redesigned pin is smaller to prevent pin sticking inside primer pockets. I tested the pin by inserting in several different headstamp primer pockets and no sticking. FYI, SAAMI spec for SP/SR primer pocket is 0.1730"-0.1745" and this explains why 0.173" priming pin would stick inside 0.173" nominal primer pockets (Especially if there's crud/build up inside the primer pocket) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-10#post-11403561

BTW, primer cup diameters of CCI/S&B/PMC SP primers were all 0.1750".

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Enhanced reassembly of top/bottom carrier covers to increase primer chute/trough pin pressure on press column groove rings.

NOTE: Those using longer gray primer slider with captive spring end, remove primer slider before reassembly to make alignment of shellplate shaft/priming pin/index pin and tightening of two flathead screws easier
. (Remove longer gray slider by removing the primer guide, raising the ram/carrier up to release tension on slider spring, lift slider to clear slider channel stop and pull out slider to clear channel hold down tabs. Installation is opposite of removal)

Reassembly of top/bottom carrier covers involve putting the bottom carrier cover down, straightening the shellplate shaft gear, ensuring retention ball is on top of spring and lowering the ram/carrier core/top cover carefully to align everything (You may need to guide/finger the shellplate shaft side-to-side until shaft clears the hole in the carrier core/top cover).

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Due to spring tension of priming pin, it will be easier to align top and lower covers by lifting both covers sandwiching the carrier core to tighten the two top carrier cover flathead screws (while holding both top/bottom covers with one hand).

Enhanced reassembly of carrier covers:
  • To increase primer chute/trough pin tension on frame column groove rings, place the pin in the lower groove ring and rotate the cover counter-clockwise slightly before tightening the two flathead screws to put more pressure on the pin
  • NOTE: As you tighten the screws, ensure the priming pin moves up and down freely
  • After tightening the two flathead screws, lower the ram/carrier to check the index pin is not contacting the top cover hole
  • Check to make sure the priming pin moves up and down freely
  • Raise ram and tighten lower carrier cover panhead screw
  • Install primer slider/guide and operate ram lever to ensure slider is moving smoothly/freely and guide is entering station #2 fully/freely
And here's the redesigned priming pin shown with primer guide in station #2.

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And with slight rotation of top cover during tightening of two flathead screws, you can see pin twisting the primer chute/trough with pin having better contact with lower groove ring. Moving ram up and down, primer tray shakes well enough to move primers down into the chute/trough opening.

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And if you still do not have enough pin to groove ring contact, you can apply the DIY pen filler sleeve roller mod to enhance pin to groove ring contact. You can see the sleeve roller mod twisting the primer chute/trough further and the tray now really shakes when the ram moves up and down.

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Stress Test of "Self-Cleaning" Priming Pin

Stress test of pouring powder all over station #2 to see if redesigned "self-cleaning" pin clears powder granules.

Accurate No. 2 and Hodgdon Titegroup were tested. No. 2 is almost fine sand ball powder that will get into every nook and cranny. Titegroup is flattened ball powder similar in granule size as W231/HP-38 but has crinkly surface texture that tends to cause bridging of powder and I decided to use for that reason.

Let's jump right to the stress test by pouring powder into station #2. Here we go ... A LOT of No. 2.

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The "self-cleaning" action of the redesigned priming pin works when bottom of priming pin is pushed up and down, allowing powder granules to enter the priming pin sleeve hole and the cone shaped pin allows the powder to fall down and through the triangle cut slots at the bottom of priming pin hole of bottom carrier cover.

This is what station #2 looked like after actuating the priming pin several times by pushing up on the bottom of pin.

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And here's all the powder that poured out through triangle cut out of hole. Yes, A LOT of powder but this after all is a STRESS TEST.

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And "self-cleaning" priming pin is self-cleaning station #2 of powder to where I can operate the ram lever and actuate the primer slider/guide to move back and forth clearing out remaining powder until I can simply blow on station #2 to clear rest of powder granules for normal press operation.

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Now for Titegroup. If you look close, you can see crinkly texturing of Titegroup where W231/HP-38 is mostly smooth - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-reloading-scale-review.904159/#post-12262302

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And after several manual actuation of priming pin up and down, station #2 is "self-cleaning" of powder granules

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And powder granule that poured out under the pin

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Few more push on the priming pin and remaining powder granules were cleared by blowing on station #2.

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And primer slider pushed guide into station #2 without issue. (I spoke too soon, I see two more granules on top of the slider ...).

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And here's the bottom carrier cover showing triangle cut out at bottom of hole did an effective job of clearing powder granules out.

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Updating "Troubleshooting and Solutions" with "Redesigned 'self cleaning' priming pin stress test" and added Part 2 - Enhanced top and bottom carrier cover reassembly with redesigned priming pin to "Press Disassembly and Reassembly".

NOTE: Please keep in mind that product operation and update parts information of this newly launched press is dynamic and changing with pre/early production parts; therefore, presses with different mix of production run parts may exist. While I attempt to stay current and be accurate as possible, do realize that information posted on this thread are based on my personal experience with my personal press and parts that have been clarified with contact with Lee Precision. Parts design/update/production runs/lots can vary and influence how they perform in your press.

Press Set Up
:
New Priming System:
Press Disassembly and Reassembly:
Fine tuning press operation for consistency:
Troubleshooting and Solutions:
Lee Precision Update Parts:
 
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I did NOT ask for them for free.....but they changed the order on their own with a charge only for the .223 plate......and they "threw in" a primer spring I didn't even order. they are bending over backwards to make this press a success. Impressed!

This has been the case for a long time now. Many parts on their parts page for many presses, dies, etc., are no charge "This item is FREE for you" with only paying for shipping, which is not cheap these days from anybody. Putting together a pay for part and "free" parts on one order makes it come out well. Most parts on the SPP parts page are "This item is FREE for you" from even before the machine was available. I "ordered" a bunch of spares before I received my machine and paid only shipping unless I ordered two of an item at once and then paid for one plus shipping on all.

GD
 
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Never seen so much to do over a LEE product!:what:
Over 15 pages and 369 posts!
Seems LL has found a retirement occupation.
 
Never seen so much to do over a LEE product!:what:
Over 15 pages and 369 posts!
Seems LL has found a retirement occupation.

Maybe it has to do with how much "to do" Lee continues to do to make reloading affordable to those who won't or can't justify putting big bucks into the hobby. I'm fairly impressed with this new machine, but it has to be "developed".....and I'm really impressed with a company who gets right on it...... More than I can say about RCBS, Dillon, or Hornady. Those companies take their sweet time.....if they do it at all.....and I work with stuff from all of them. I've been around for a long time, and there still isn't a perfect press....and improvements are usually slow to come.....and most come from users' own initiative.
 
Dry priming test of new redesigned priming rod/pin

Continuing post #366 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12482601

With "self-cleaning" aspect of the new redesigned priming pin sufficiently satisfied, moving unto the dry priming test of fully inserting priming pin into deprimed primer pockets.

40 mixed range brass were deprimed then "primed" in station #2 with priming pin fully inserted into primer pockets as though I was priming the cases.

Unsurprisingly, none of the cases stuck the new priming pin. I didn't think so especially with smaller .170" diameter head and worry of priming pin getting stuck, even dirty primer pockets with crud build-up, is now thing of the past. Here's a sample of deprimed cases that were fully inserted with the priming pin.

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New priming pin after the test run

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And after a quick wipe with paper towel (Nothing but Kleenex Viva Signature Cloth for me)

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Dry priming test of new redesigned priming rod/pin

Continuing post #366 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12482601

With "self-cleaning" aspect of the new redesigned priming pin sufficiently satisfied, moving unto the dry priming test of fully inserting priming pin into deprimed primer pockets.

40 mixed range brass were deprimed then "primed" in station #2 with priming pin fully inserted into primer pockets as though I was priming the cases.

Unsurprisingly, none of the cases stuck the new priming pin. I didn't think so especially with smaller .170" diameter head and worry of priming pin getting stuck, even dirty primer pockets with crud build-up, is now thing of the past. Here's a sample of deprimed cases that were fully inserted with the priming pin.

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New priming pin after the test run

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And after a quick wipe with paper towel (Nothing but Kleenex Viva Signature Cloth for me)

View attachment 1119477

I received the new pin yesterday and was in no particular hurry to install until I read your comments about the smaller diameter head. I checked the new pin vs. my old pins and the old pin would sometimes stick in unprimed cases where as the new did not. Got busy and installed and so far the test results look and feel good. What I mean by feel is that with new smaller diameter pin I can feel the primer going in better than I could with the old bigger diameter pin on the small primer cases with the tight primer hole.
 
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= New redesigned "self-cleaning" priming rod/pin now allow leaky powder charging at station #2 as pin will "self-clean" powder granules dropped on top of pin and smaller diameter head won't stick in primer pockets =

Redesigned "self-cleaning" pin overview:

Continued from post #330 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12479625

Received the redesigned "self cleaning" priming pin and spent the day doing comparison with old pin and conducting stress test while finding additional benefit Lee Precision may not know about.

On post #349, we did Problem/Solution on primer chute/trough pin not contacting press column groove rings enough to shake the primer tray. Solution was two-part - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-14#post-12481094
  1. Rotating top carrier cover counter-clockwise while tightening the two flathead screws on top to increase pressure on pin against groove rings
  2. Using 11/16" piece of pen filler to use as sleeve roller to further increase pressure on pin against groove rings
But solution #1 was limited by solid/straight priming pin rod/shaft binding inside the priming pin sleeve tube thus limiting how much we could twist the top cover. With the redesigned priming pin with different shaped shaft (Instead of being straight), I found I could rotate the top cover a bit further to increase pin contact with groove rings without binding with priming pin sleeve hole (And using DIY sleeve roller shook the primer tray even better).

More on this on next post, "Enhanced reassembly of top/bottom carrier covers" - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12482599

OK, back to the redesigned priming pin.

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The redesigned pin is slightly shorter at 1.845" and the head diameter is smaller at 0.170" with .244" base diameter (Slightly smaller base diameter should help with powder granule clearing from bottom carrier cover hole). The old pin is longer at 1.850" with larger head diameter of 0.173" and .245" base diameter. The spring supplied with the new pin felt slightly stiffer (I know, the springs in the picture look different but I counted the spring windings and they were same ... it's different position of spring end that makes two springs look different).

The diameter of the redesigned pin is smaller to prevent pin sticking inside primer pockets. I tested the pin by inserting in several different headstamp primer pockets and no sticking. FYI, SAAMI spec for SP/SR primer pocket is 0.1730"-0.1745" and this explains why 0.173" priming pin would stick inside 0.173" nominal primer pockets (Especially if there's crud/build up inside the primer pocket) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-10#post-11403561

BTW, primer cup diameters of CCI/S&B/PMC SP primers were all 0.1750".

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What do you think is the reason for the shorter length of the pin? And the thinner ledge where the spring rested? the ledge is now thinner on the new pin then it was on the original older one. I suspect the shorter length of the pin might be an attempt to keep primers from being tipped during operation, I have had that happen a few times and also have had primers fall off the pin and jam up the shell plate.
 
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NOTE: Listing of step-by-step press set up, operation, enhanced practice for greater consistency, troubleshooting/solutions with factory updates on this post - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-oal-consistency.911743/page-15#post-12482612
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What do you think is the reason for the shorter length of the pin?
The shorter length (New 1.845" vs old 1.850") will drop the priming pin head .005" further below the top cover/primer slide channel/trough to better alleviate any snagging/interference issue with primer guide sliding. And depending on powder granule size, priming pin head being slightly further below may allow for better "cleaning" of powder granule from station #2.

I took a closer picture of new priming pin in retracted position and it shows pin head below the primer channel surface.

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And the thinner ledge where the spring rested?
I measured the base length below the flared ledge and both pin's lengths are same at .550". What the thinner flared ledge does is allow the spring to sit slightly lower but not sure how that will affect anything as primer seating is determined by total length of priming pin.

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So you think it is worth the time and effort to put the new pin in ? I do not have the latest bottom cover with the triangle cutout, but I have the latest pin on hand.

-Jeff
 
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