Lights for Home Defense

Status
Not open for further replies.

CarbineKid

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
173
I have been giving alot of though to my current home defense set up. My S&W 9mm pistol is perfect for me. However if something goes bump in the night I feel its important to have a light that can be used to help ID the target, as well as blind him(if needed). So I have a few basic questions...any info is appreciated

1) What is the mininum lumens needed for an effect HD light.

2) Is it better to have the light mounted on the pistol(M3) or a hand held light??? I ask this because a good friend(who is LEO) told me a pistol mounted light is more of a SWAT thing...and it makes a good target to. For my purpose Im better off with a hand held light..any truth to this?

3) Suggestions on a good light?
 
A 6v Surefire or Streamlight will do everything you need.

A weapon mounted light is handy. I have lights on my duty pistol and duty carbine. But it can't be your only light. If you only are going to get one light, get a handheld. The last thing you want to do is use your weapon as a flashlight. If you get a weapon mounted light make sure you buy a holster that will allow you to holster your pistol with the light attached. Fumbling around taking a light off and on a loaded weapon is begging for an ND.

Clearing your weapon each time you take the light on and off gets to be problematic.

Jeff
 
Depending on how much you want to spend there are many options. Surefire is a great line with many choices. I tend to like Streamlight products as they are less costly but are great lights. Pelican aslo makes some good lights. Check out Brightguy.com
 
For me, light in left hand held high, gun in right. Unless I have the shotgun, THAT has an M3, because that'd get poked about.

My opinion is that pistol lights are great for a bunch of guys covering each other, shouting, who need to ID noncombatants quickly.

For one person, in a house, you're basically holding a target light for them right in front of your COM.
 
For one person, in a house, you're basically holding a target light for them right in front of your COM.

A handheld light is not a talisman against getting shot.

Poor light discipline is a training and tactics problem, not an equipment issue. If you're at risk of getting shot because you do not know how to use a weapon mounted light, you're at an equally high risk of getting shot because you do not know how to use a handheld light. Funny how the Roger-Surefire, Chapman and Harries light methods all involve holding the light next to the weapon.....a target light at center mass....someone should tell those guys they are doing things wrong.

Lights exceeding 100 lumens can be too bright for indoor use, person dependant, most 65 lumen 6V lights are plenty.
 
If you do not have a holster for that light on your belt (you may not even have a belt, or pants, at 0300...) you may want to attach a wrist lanyard of some sort to a hand held flashlight. That way you can let go of the flashlight when reloading or clearing a malfunction without dropping it to the floor.

Practice using that flashlight in the dark of your home until you get used to it, and have other folks play the opposition if you can. This will give you an idea of what you can and can not do with a flashlight indoors.
 
My mossberg has a streamlight M3 on it. On the nightstand is a big MagLight for use with the .45 in the drawer. I try to keep on my belt a nice Streamlight dual Zenon/LED light. But, with my other crap on the belt (phone, pager, leatherman, CCW, etc), I get tired of the Batman jokes, so the flash light is usually in a jacket pocket. But, with summer coming fast, it'll be back on the belt soon enough. I need to get another one of them to leave in the car.

So yeah, I agree with lots of lights.
 
Having a light is a good idea. However, a collegue of mine has made a very convincing point to me that NOT using a light in your own home gives you a tremendous tactical advantage. Since you know your house, most likely well enough to walk through any room in the dark without banging into any furniture, you can silently and invisibly investigate without tipping off an intruder to your presence.

Walking though your house with a flashlight not only identifies your position, but seriously degrades your night vision as well.

My new tactic is to investigate with gun and light, but the light off. If I spot an intruder I may...or may not use the light.

Surefire 6p, G2 or Streamlight Scorpion are good inexpensive lights. My "bump in the night" light on my nightstand is the Surefire L2 because of the dual brightness levels. When going for a drink of water, the low level is perfect. Plus it's a flood-type beam, which I believe is much superior to the spot of the lights recommended in the first sentence of this paragraph. The flood illuminates a much broader area for seeing things in your periphery...but it's expensive.
 
I don't think anyone here (at least I hope not) is wandering through their house with the light on at all times.

It's a 'blip the light on-off-move-blip on-etc' type technique. Leaving it on would be bad: IDs you, kills your night vision and provides them with the 'target' opportunity that everyone fears.

Too many movies with people running around with those lights on constantly...
 
ALL LIGHTS ON

I have an inexpensive set-up in my house (have installed this in every house I've owned in fact), that gives us the ability to instantly light up every room in the house with the push of one button bedside. Various systems exist to do this, and cost could range from just about $200 to several thousand if you want to get crazy with it, and depending on the size of your house.

The first system I used was called X-10. Been around since 1978. You have several small (deck of cards sized) modules that you plug lamps into in each room. Each has its own unique ID. A controller/clock at bedside has buttons to turn on/dim various lamps by ID. Also has an ALL LIGHTS ON button, and an ALL UNITS OFF button. This bedside controller sends a short burst of data over your power line, instructing the modules to turn on the lights. We keep the master bedroom lights off the system so that we remain in darkness and not light-blinded. You only need one light in each room to really push back the darkness.

We currently use a system called Z-wave, which uses a 900MHz wireless signal instead of power-line signalling since we now live in an antique house with "interesting" power wiring that will not pass the X-10 signals reliably.

There are various other systems, some wireless, some powerline based, some a combination. All have modules you can just plug in, many additionally have modules that can be installed in the wall to replace existing light switches. Most bedside controllers contain also a clock, and you can program the lights to come on and go off at useful times all the time, to give the place a lived-in look all the time, whether you're home or away.

If you're concerned about intruders first cutting your power, that's easily solved too. Just place a small, inexpensive battery backup system (uninterruptible power supply or UPS) at each lamp, and one for the controller. X-10 might have trouble punching a signal through a UPS but the Z-wave and other wireless systems will work just fine this way.

You can find many/most of these systems at www.smarthome.com, but there are other vendors. You can find cheap X-10 stuff at Fry's and even Radio Shack used to carry it, not sure if they still do.

So here's how it goes down. If we hear a suspicious bump in the night, we press the ALL LIGHTS ON button, and the house is instantly flooded with light. We grab the homeland security hardware, duck behind the bed, and wait for the intruder to appear in our bedroom doorway, conveniently framed by the door frame.

We don't clear our own house room to room. That's for the cops, which are dispatched as soon as we are in defensive position, from a cellphone (in case the intruder has cut the phone line). That way, if the SHTF, we are heard on the recording at the 911 dispatcher's as being in a "fear for our life" defensive situation, helpful to our case if the intruder's family later decides to sue.

If the intruder has any sense of self preservation, when the lights come up all around him, he'll beat it for the door. If he doesn't, he'll later be scraped and sponged up off the floor.

Most bumps, it's just the cats getting into trouble. Cats, like intruders, are most active at night. :)
 
Last edited:
Not much to add to what lowracer said except the following...

I have a light attatched to my bedside pistol. If I hear bump in night that seems safe enough I go investigate with light off. If turns out to be intruder I light him/her up. Note at that point in time, what my weapon is pointed at, I might be willing to shoot. it depends on what I see when I light him up.

Unless there are two or more people there I have a distinct advantage. If the person is armed and facing me I stop the threat. If the person is armed and turning towards me they have about .5 sec before I stop the threat. If they are unarmed what happens next is totally situational dependant.

I'm not overly worried about it being my wife (since I will have left her in bed). But if it were just I would a) recognize her in the dark (how many intruders wear a short nitie?), or b) would take the light off her the second I turned it on.

If the noise is something I can identify as likely to be caused by an intruder (glass break... crunch crunch... door open) then it plays out as lowracer said.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top