Loose Ejector Rod

[Lee Q. Loader]

My old 38 S&W is my favorite gun in my small collection. I hit far better with it than anything I own.
Anyway, when I shoot it the ejector rod comes loose and spins out far enough to make it very difficult to open the cylinder.
I tighten it back up, hand tight, and it does the same thing again.
Any ideas for a permanent fix?

 

[AZAndy]

I've used some fingernail polish on the threads to solve that problem. I have a Model 10 no dash that has wrong-way threading, and that took care of it. I believe it was our own Driftwood Johnson who turned me on to that-- I was going to use Loctite, but he changed my mind.

 

[edwardware]

Fingernail polish per @AZAndy, or mild threadlocker.

 

[Pat Riot]

The threads are very fine. Don’t use Loctite Blue.

I had the same problem on my S&W 17. I found that I was getting a bit too carried away with lubricant. When I reassemble the cylinder assembly I clean the threads with 91% isopropyl alcohol or acetone to remove any lube and that seems to have done the trick. If it happens again I will try Driftwood Johnson’s finger nail polish trick. Probably in a lovely shade of “cheap”.

 

[Jonesy814]

Put empty brass in the charge holes to support the ejector star when tightening

 

[mcb]

Disassemble, de-grease well, and use some vibration resistant thread locker. It will be much easy to unscrew it at a later time if needed but will keep general use from backing it out.

 

[MedWheeler]

Jonesy814 writes:

Put empty brass in the charge holes to support the ejector star when tightening.

Good point. I have a Taurus 66 that does this. I've used my snap-caps while tightening the sleeve.

 

[Walkalong]

I have used blue Loctite with good success. Go very sparingly.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

I use blue loc-tite and have had no problems with taking it back apart. I only use a dab at the very end of the threads (towards the front of the gun), this prevents it from turning, but allows for easy unscrewing later.

 

[Lee Q. Loader]

Great! Thanks everyone for your help! I used a tiny dap of nail polish. I went to the indoor range yesterday and it worked great.

 

[MachIVshooter]

The threads are very fine. Don’t use Loctite Blue.

Nothing wrong with blue. Just need to apply some heat if you want to remove it. Even parts assembled with red will unscrew easily with heat. I use red on virtually all muzzle thread adapters that may need to come off from time to time.

That said, don't do Rocksett. It's water soluble, but the water has to be able to get to it. Heat is a no-go with Rocksett, as you'll anneal or melt the metal before you soften the epoxy.

 

[Pat Riot]

The reason I don’t use Locktite on the really fine threads is it seems to be a pain to remove from the threads.

 

[MachIVshooter]

The reason I don’t use Locktite on the really fine threads is it seems to be a pain to remove from the threads.

How often do you need to unscrew your ejector rod?

Other than refinishing or replacing a damaged component in the crane & cylinder assembly, I can't see why you'd need to.

 

[Pat Riot]

I am a bit fastidious about cleaning and maintaining my S&W revolvers. I take the cylinder assembly apart and clean it about twice a year.

 

[mcb]

I am a bit fastidious about cleaning and maintaining my S&W revolvers. I take the cylinder assembly apart and clean it about twice a year.

The vibration resistant low strength thread locker would be perfect for that. Think of it as adding a nylock nut to your revolver, in paint form. It keeps shock and vibration from working the threads loose without greatly increasing the torque it will take to remove it later.

 

[Pat Riot]

The vibration resistant low strength thread locker would be perfect for that. Think of it as adding a nylock nut to your revolver, in paint form. It keeps shock and vibration from working the threads loose without greatly increasing the torque it will take to remove it later.

Would that be the Loctite “purple”?

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Would that be the Loctite “purple”?

Purple is what I use. It is low strength and good to use on any handgun threads. Blue can be used, but apply sparingly, as Walkalong said. Green is similar to blue, but it is a penetrant and is meant to be applied after the fastener is installed. Because of this, it usually gives a stronger bond. Red is a real no go on gun threads, it requires heat to break the bond. On gun threads, red can make a permanent bond, destroying the threads when loosened. There are more colors available, but are not useful for the average consumer. Red and blue are available in a lipstick style, very handy in auto repair. Clean the joint and apply. The bolt can be installed later.

 

[Walkalong]

A good explanation of the colors and how too use.

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/

https://www.ellsworth.com/globalass...-do-it-right-loctite-maintenance-products.pdf

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/product_advisor/index.shtml

 

[MachIVshooter]

Red is a real no go on gun threads, it requires heat to break the bond.

It has it's place. Red is the last stop before soldering/brazing/welding, to be used for parts which may need to be removed at some point for major service or parts replacement, but are not intended to ever be unscrewed for routine maintenance. About the only place I regularly use red is muzzle thread adapters, where they need to stay put during repeated installation & removal of suppressors that have larger threads and often more mating surface. Lower strength anaerobics are inadequate for this purpose. Some use Rocksett, and I do on occasion, but if you ever need to remove a part that's been secured with Rocksett, you'd better not be in a hurry, and you'd better hope water can get to the adhesive.

I also use red Loctite to secure the integral booster housings in my pistol cans.

Basically, if you're thinking about red, make sure whatever you may need to undo later won't be hurt by temps of up to 500°F. It'll usually soften a bit below that, but 500°F is the spec.

 

[Walkalong]

I put too much blue on a fine thread quad rail once (More is better, right?), and I caught heck getting it apart later, had to use heat. Pick your color carefully, and use judiciously. It can be your friend, but it can bite you in the butt.

The second link in my post above gives good guidance on how to apply.

 

[mcb]

Would that be the Loctite “purple”?

Yeah I believe the Loctite version is purple. Being nearly color blind I usually just go by the numbers and use 222MS. Loctite offers many many different versions of thread lockers and sealers so its better to go by number than color since even within one color there are many different types for different applications. I also have used Vibra-tite's VC-3 with good success for this application.

 

[Eddietruett]

I have used blue Loctite with good success. Go very sparingly.

I use Blue Locktite as well and my gunsmith gave me a great tip. If you ever need to remove the ejector rod or anything for that matter, take a hair dryer and heat it good where the threads are before removing. The heat will break down the Locktite.

 

[Walkalong]

Since I now have purple where I didn't before, it might be a bit better choice for an ejector rod, but blue is OK as long as you don't flood the threads. Stay away from red unless you need it really locked down and don't expect to take it apart, although, as posted, heat will break it down. Some things won't take that much heat though.