Machinist fixed my bullet mold

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usmc0811

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I snapped a bolt off on my bullet mold, I had a machinist take it out for me he had to manufacture a new bolt. He said he's it's going to cost me $115!!!! does this seem ridiculous it does to me or am I just clueless. Would you pay this price? I could buy two. New molds for this price.
 

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I can see it costing $115.00/hr for a quality CNC machinist to take that out and make a bolt. I just wouldn't have contacted one for that to start with.
He would have to charge that for an hour because if he wasn't making your bolt he would be making something else that he would be able to charge that for.
He has equipment to pay for. He probably has a 1hr minimum also.

But any good industrial maintenance person, (like myself :)) could have taken it out for you for nothing, and you would have to call the mfg, to get a new bolt.
 
J was just going to do it myself but I also took my rifle for some work so I just figured I would just drop it off to him to just do it for me. He had them for two weeks and didn't even get to my rifle yet. I'm going to get my rifle back today cuz God knows what he would charge me to fix that issue probably several hundred dollars
 
That should not require a machinist to fix. You can fix that yourself. An easy-out should make short work of that broken bolt. For that matter given the size and position of that bolt, slot the end of the broken off screw with a Dremel cut-off wheel and back the broken end out with a flat screw driver. That screw is simply a shoulder screw. Measure the thickness of the spru-plate and the diameter of the hole in the plate and buy a should bolt the correct size from McMaster-Carr or similar supplier.
 
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Machinists cost a lot because a good one can make just about anything. Replacing a bolt doesn’t need the skills of a machinist, but taking your project means he can’t take someone else’s project (for that time slot) so you get charged the same as if you had something that did require his skills. I’d say $100-150/hr is reasonable for a good machinist’s time, so I don’t think he’s trying to gouge you or anything.

I recommend removing the bolt and finding a suitable replacement yourself. I’d recommend calling the manufacturer to get the specs for what type of bolt they used and you might even be able to buy a replacement from them.

I think this is a separate issue from whatever work you wanted done to your rifle. I didn’t see what you wanted done, but there are things that absolutely require a machinist. Lots of “gunsmiths” aren’t qualified to do those things, but some won’t tell you and will screw up your rifle when they try. For what it’s worth, I won’t take any of my weapons to a gunsmith if they are are not also a good machinist.
 
$115... it’s cheaper to buy a harbor freight drill press, a drill bit, and a basic broken screw extractor, then throw it all away when your done. Better yet, keep the stuff, replace the broken bolt and have capability and experience for the next broken bolt. $115 is highway robbery.

Where are you? Somebody on here is bound to be close and willing to do it for you.
 
We agreed on $50
I explained to him that I could have bought 2 brand new molds for that cost. I understand what some of you are saying but I feel that's a rip off.
 
$115... it’s cheaper to buy a harbor freight drill press, a drill bit, and a basic broken screw extractor, then throw it all away when your done. Better yet, keep the stuff, replace the broken bolt and have capability and experience for the next broken bolt. $115 is highway robbery. Im I PA. Yeah if I knew it was going to be that expensive I would just bought a brand new mold for $50. The only reason I took it there was because I was taking a rifle anyway I figured just have him do it.

Where are you? Somebody on here is bound to be close and willing to do it for you.
 
I snapped a bolt off on my bullet mold, I had a machinist take it out for me he had to manufacture a new bolt. He said he's it's going to cost me $115!!!! does this seem ridiculous it does to me or am I just clueless. Would you pay this price? I could buy two. New molds for this price.

I don't understand why you think there is any relationship between the price of a new mold and his time. There isn't. I'm surprised he gave you a price instead of just saying no.
 
I'd have asked for $300 just so you'd take it elsewhere and not come back. Asking a machinist to remove a broken screw is like asking a cardiac surgeon to pop a pimple.
The only reason I took it there was because I was already taking a rifle to get something done and figured I'll just have him do it and save me the hassle.
 
I don't understand why you think there is any relationship between the price of a new mold and his time. There isn't. I'm surprised he gave you a price instead of just saying no.
If he just said no then I would have said ok keep it I'll buy a new one. Everyone has their opinions and mine is $115 is a total rip off.
 
The removal is simple if you have a TIG welder https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-stripped-out-setscrews.875066/#post-11641905

I say easy, once someone drills a hole off center, into the threads and breaks an EZ out off in it, they just made things worse than if they did nothing after breaking the thing off. So sometimes it’s best to take it to someone that knows what they are doing.

I can see a business charging that amount, most machine shops are not a walk-in, one item kind of place.

That said, if the agreed on price/cost was $50, I would expect the bill to be that and at most + tax. Unless I received a phone call that the estimate would not cover the work required.

I wouldn’t pay $115 but I look at that and know that it will take me a few minutes to do. Same reason I repaired a 3/4” PVC pipe at my Nieces house the cows broke off, that a plumber quoted her $250 for the repair. That doesn’t even involve very special tools or skills. Remove 16” or so of dirt, cut pipe, primer, glue push $.20 cent part on, repeat and done, except I added in a T post to keep it from happening again.

Of course I then go into the City with my wife for a fancy dinner and pay stupid prices for a dinner and enough on one drink, I could have purchased the ingredients at a store and made them all week myself for less...
 
Left twist drills are amazing and not near well enough known. Before ever screwing with an easy out or extractor use those first. As a separate note I bet removal from a hot mold would be a lot easier. Dont use this as an opportunity to be angry, get the capacity and knowledge to repair the next failure. A drill press is a great thing to have for brass prep also.
 
Left twist drills are amazing and not near well enough known. Before ever screwing with an easy out or extractor use those first. As a separate note I bet removal from a hot mold would be a lot easier. Dont use this as an opportunity to be angry, get the capacity and knowledge to repair the next failure. A drill press is a great thing to have for brass prep also.
That's the truth! To a real machinist, a good quality standing drill press isn't that far off from a soft-metals vertical mill. The only thing missing is the transit table and those aren't horribly expensive. My little jeweler's lathe was free. The previous owner bought it thinking machining just wasn't that hard and, if some blue collar bozo could figure it out, he'd have no trouble being a master in no time. It's a nice little 1970's Unimat, hardly used when I got it, with just a couple of corrosion points on the bed (blood does that to hardened steel). I moved the motor to the rear and off-set it to clear a larger pulley and improve the speed range. The tail wig was missing but that was easy to replace. I should probably replace the rheostat for the control unit but it's not critical.

Knowledge is everything. :)
 
Unless it's a Lee left hand thread... then,a conventional drill works,haha. But positively,LH twist drills are the shcnitz.


Left twist drills are amazing and not near well enough known. Before ever screwing with an easy out or extractor use those first. As a separate note I bet removal from a hot mold would be a lot easier. Dont use this as an opportunity to be angry, get the capacity and knowledge to repair the next failure. A drill press is a great thing to have for brass prep also.
 
Many, many reloaders/casters don't have the ability (mechanical aptitude), experience or tools to "just do it yourself". A decent machinist (not a machine operator, but a professional, making a living) is expensive as years of learning, experience of expensive equipment come into play for a machinist. Getting a broken bolt out is no big deal and an auto mechanic is capable. but making a bolt from scratch, raw materials, and make it to decent spec. takes a trained, experienced craftsman. (FWIW; I took Metal/Machine Shop in High School and Jr. College for 5 years, In JC the final exam was to make a bolt from scratch with extra credit if made from round stock. A 9/16x6" hex head bold made from scratch, with fine threads cut on a lathe is no easy task...).
 
At one time I was pretty adept at welding nuts onto broken exhaust manifold bolts and can attest it is by far and away the best method to remove a broken bolt. As others have said it doesn't jeopardize the threading, provides a nice hex-head for a socket and in my case loosened up the Loctite that was present and would've hindered any other type of removal process. Know a decent welder?

The left-handed drill bits are another good option, inexpensive and handy to have around just in case.
 
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