marlin stock broke in half any fix for it?

[leserz]

i have a marlin model 99 they were made in 1959 1960 only from what i could find out. anyway it was broken when i got it but together with glue and brads. under a 1/8" if fiberglass cloth and resin. it was but ugly. so i stripped off all the fiberglass and resin. tried the super glue rout that worked for a short time now it's loose again . so it is in two pieces now. and i would like to fix it so i can use it again. any ideas? before you say look for a stock builder none that i contacted had a stock for one . a model 99 looks just like a model 60 oh the rifle is a .22 semi auto tube fed. and a custom built stock is out of the question. can not spent $300.00 on a stock for a $ 60.00 rifle nor do i even have that much to spend. thinking if i could use a model 60 stock. thing is there are three different stocks for a model 60. not all receivers on model 60's are the same. and the trigger are different sizes also. darn thing is broke in half at the rear of the receiver the thinnest part of the stock.

 

[ACORN]

Did you try www.gunpartscorp.com ??

 

[leserz]

no but i will check it out. thanks

 

[leserz]

wow they have them $53.00 shipped. as a last resort i might buy one.. still can't figure out how some one can bust a stock in half and brake the trigger guard also. unless you fell on it or held it by the barrel and swung and hit a big tree with it.

 

[1911Tuner]

Brownells Acra-Glas. The gel is easier to mix and work...but the original Acra-Glas makes a stronger joint. Stronger than the wood itself.

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Thats good stuff Tuner but I'd be afraid of the previous repair attempt with super glue. I have had less than stellar results regluing any wood that has a failed previous repair. Under the circumstances it would be worth a shot but I'd be primed to accept failure here. New stock still available...?
Joe

 

[1911Tuner]

Scrape out the super glue. Drill a few shallow holes in the areas to be joined. Glop in the Acra-Glas. Fix it solidly with a clamping device for 72 hours. It'll hold.

 

[leserz]

i have scraped away all the glue on it to bare wood again just not sure how to go about it. the gun is not worth much at all. a new stock is worth more than the gun with a new stock. kind of beat to hell. heck it has seen 49 years of hard use. if i can not fix it where it will hold forever. i will spend $100.00 to buy a mosberg plinkster.

 

[ACORN]

Not that I'm trying to tell you how to spend your money, but I'd buy a Marlin 60. Use good ammo. They are accurate. The Plinksters look to be plastic POS. I'm suprised they didn't put plastic barrels on them.

 

[mikebnem]

Call Marlin they have very good cust. SVC.

BTW. I build toy guns for my son out of those stocks.

They are a dime a dozen.

 

[Jim K]

I second the suggestion to call Marlin. I can't criticize DIY work as I just finished replacing the icemaker valve on my refrigerator, but there are some jobs that are best handled by the pros or, in this case, by the factory if they will do it. They may refer you to a gunsmith who is a factory repair station.

Jim

 

[Chawbaccer]

Is that the M-1 style rifle? I always thought they were a neat gun. I imagine your stock is broken at the wrist. The proper way to fix it is to drill a couple over sized holes and put two threaded rods in it. Use plenty of a thin epoxy to fill the gaps in the holes completely. THe threaded rods have a better grip than a plain rod. I doubt you will be able to hide the break with your description of what was and is. I suggest you finish the whole stock with something like stone texture paint to suit.

 

[leserz]

if this works this is the broken stock




http://adobe.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=v51ezqm.xl2zsyq&x=0&y=9cfl1l&localeid=en_US

 

[jeepmor]

Titebond 2 wood glue is an excellent wood glue. Be sure to wipe the joint where is squeezes out well while it's still tacky. Because, IIRC, this one is waterproof once dry. For odd shapes that are difficult to clamp as I suspect this one is, a good tape works wonders. I've put many a broken yard tool shaft back together with some titebond glue and duct tape. Duct tape is a bit agressive and may pull finish off with while removing it once the glue has dried. However, electrical tape seems to work very well and not stick to the finish nearly as bad. Heck, even that blue painters tape will work great if you use enough. The issue is that it usually covers your repair joint that you'll want to clean the squeezed out glue from. I suggest clamping it by hand or some soft faced clamp as much as possible, cleaning up the excess, then moving to the tape for a final clamping.

I would not use anything but wood glue for wood myself. But that's coming from an ex-woodworker. Wood glue is made to hold wood together, everything else, IMO, is not. I don't mean to dissuade you from any other method, but my experience is that wood glue of some sort or another is usually the best bet.

Oh man, that one's a real pickle now that I look at the image. If you can put some biscuits in it, that will greatly increase the strength. I still hold my position that wood glue will provide your best chance for long term strength. I think the accra glass suggestion would me too brittle because it's more like a fiberglass resin than a wood.

Best of luck, I hope my suggestions offer some hope of repair.

Acetone will remove superglue, but it'll also attack darn near any finish, so be careful using it.


jeepmor

 

[Chawbaccer]

That is nasty. I think a repair would make it a lot thicker.

 

[leserz]

please delete

 

[leserz]

the 99 is almost identical to a model

 

[Cosmoline]

Looking at the photo, that's tricky. I hope you didn't use mustard for it LOL. There's barely enough wood there to allow for a brass rod as support. The only thing I could suggest is to wet the inside surface with q-tips, apply gorilla glue and then set. But you'll need to keep it under pressure which prob. means assembling the rifle. Use a protective layer of cloth to keep the glue from seizing the steel of the receiver. It will not be pretty and the crack will show, but gorilla glue is the only adhesive I've found to be both flexible and strong enough to fix breaks in the wrist or receiver area.

 

[leserz]

i never used the gorilla glue. was told it is pretty good stuff. what i was thinking of is finding a good hobby shop and getting some 1/16" 5 ply birch ply wood and use some 30 min. epoxy and laminate it over there the brake's if it is thicker don't matter to me with 1/16 is to thin i can double it up to 1/8" you can get that ply down to 1/32" if i remember been a long time since i flew model air planes

 

[Slamfire]

With that stock busted on the sidewalls, you have got a problem.

I suspect the fiberglass and epoxy glue was about as good as you are going to get. You need to put reinforcement on the outside, because I sure don't see any space on the inside.

I really doubt anything short of a fiberglass, kelvar, carbon-fiber reinforcement is going to hold up.

The 30 minute epoxies I have used are not that strong.

Go to the auto body shop parts place, buy some sheet fiber glass, use the glues that come with it, lay down some layers on the outside, and let cure.

When it is dry, sand smooth and feather the fiber glass edges.

Spray paint the whole thing black and don't stare too hard at the stock.

A better solution, get a replacement stock while they are still available.

 

[leserz]

what i might do is go to a hobby shop and get some 1/16" birch ply wood and epoxy or glue it over the out side of the stock i can all ways double up on the ply to make it thicker to 1/8" ot more if i need to . i have a new can of OD green paint and some flat black. so it will be camo when done.

 

[Chawbaccer]

Sounds like you have a plan. I suggest a bit of Bondo or JB Weld to blend the edges, then give it some paint.

 

[leserz]

went to the store today bought some loctite sumo glue. was told it is better than the gorilla glue . for $3.89 a once it should work for that price. it says it does not expand as much as the gorilla glue. i will see if this works to hold to gather then use the thin ply on the sides.

 

[moooose102]

holly cow, i have never seen a stock broken like that. no wonder you are having trouble. if it were me, i would find another stock. whether you buy the right one or not is up to you. one thing you could do is buy a CHEAP stock, chisle out where ever you need to to make it fit, then glass in the areas so the barreled action fits securly. just make absolouty certain to apply enough mold release to the barreled action so you can get it back out!. then final sand and finish it. a lot of work, but the price would be low.

 

[leserz]

today i cleaned all the old glue and every thing else it was held together with plus a few nails. so i got all the joints to be glued very clean. i found some very small brass wood screws about 1/2" long if that i drilled three holes in the stock while i had a trial fit then counter sunk the holes i drilled. only found three places where i could put the screws at.. so i followed the directions to a T on the package of the sumo glue. put the glue on all the mating surfaces to be glued then put in the screws in and a few very small C clamps to keep things aligned . after 4 hrs i removed all clamps. said i could remove clamps in 45 min. but i waited much longer. the screws are glued in. and over where them where it was counter sunk. so after 6 hrs. i tried to twist and bend the stock to see what would happen. well nothing happened. would not twist or bend . full cure time is 24 hrs. it looks weird when you put the glue on in just a few min. it starts to bubble and expand. not sure if i will need to use the 1/16" ply on it or not. but i'm sure i will some time. if i can find a hobby shop that has the birch ply wood. i will just paint the stock olive drab.