Moose milk

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Would someone share the ratio of ballistol with water to clean and preserve my cap and ball revolver?

Many thanks.
 
Moosemilk won't preserve anything, you'll need a good oil for that.

1 part Ballistol to 10 parts water works alright for cleaning.
There isnt any oil in ballastol?

It sure feels oily to me. There is something in it after you wipe it that leaves a film.
 
There isnt any oil in ballastol?

It sure feels oily to me. There is something in it after you wipe it that leaves a film.
Yes there is oil in Ballistol, but MOOSEMILK is a combination of ballistol and WATER.
Use moosemilk to clean if you think you need to, but for preserving the metal, you then need to dry it, and then use an oil. Straight ballistol works alright but there are things that work much better.
 
moose milk has peroxide in it as well. Not very good at keeping corrosion away since it will rust your barrel when used on a patch and loaded over night.
 
Yes there is oil in Ballistol, but MOOSEMILK is a combination of ballistol and WATER.
Use moosemilk to clean if you think you need to, but for preserving the metal, you then need to dry it, and then use an oil. Straight ballistol works alright but there are things that work much better.
What do you use to preserve?

I use G96 also its simmilar, has a cleaning agent in it but that eveporates and leaves behind an oil or greasey film after the cleaner eveporates. It is however petroilum based so i dont use it for anything but the outside on BP guns.

Im happy with the stuff ive been using they keep the parts working, the barrels arnt rusting and the guns seem pretty accurate this is all i really want.
 
moose milk has peroxide in it as well. Not very good at keeping corrosion away since it will rust your barrel when used on a patch and loaded over night.

I think you are confusing Moose Milk with Murphy's Mix. The generally accepted definition of Moose Milk, at least in the CAS world is 1 part Ballistol to 10 parts water. There is no peroxide in the generally accepted forumla.

Murphy's Mix is equal parts Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alcohol, and drugstore Hydrogen Per Oxide. It WILL NOT rust your barrel because the percentage of per oxide is very, very low. Drugstore per oxide is usually about 3% per oxide, the rest is water. After being diluted with the other two ingredients the percentage goes down to about 1% per oxide. I have used this for years, it will not rust anything. The idea is you clean with the M Mix, swab it out of the barrel, and just leave it down inside the insides of the gun. The water, per oxide, and alcohol evaporate, leaving the oil soap behind, which infuses any powder fouling with oil. Fouling infused with oil will not absorb additional moisture from the air, so there is no rust.

Been doing it for years.
 
Is the Murphy's Mix just a cleaning formula? I'm guessing it's good for short term (<1-2 months) of protection assuming a humid environment?
 
Moose Milk:
1 shot glass of water soluble oil "Ballistol"
1 shot glass of Pinesol
2 shots hydrogen peroxide - 3% solution
20 shots of water
 
Moose Milk:
1 shot glass of water soluble oil "Ballistol"
1 shot glass of Pinesol
2 shots hydrogen peroxide - 3% solution
20 shots of water
What is the pourpose of everything?

Like why add the pinesol and the peroxide?

I kinda go back and forth with the balastol/water mix and this stuff that came in a tompson center cleaning pack its a milky color. I dont know whats in the Tompson stuff but it cleans the BP very well then i use borebutter after i clean it up.
 
ballistol and water is main ingredient for the Dry patch lube system, not moose milk.

Pine sol i believe is just for a cleaner in the mix, a soapy cleaner.
 
I've always mixed mine 1:1 with water.

Ballistol is a "non-toxic" mineral oil that was originally formulated from coal oil, I believe that has changed. Since I've had enough contact with toxic chemicals over the years and don't seek any more I would much rather use Ballistol and water for cleaning than solvents. If only it would work for smokeless.
 
Is the Murphy's Mix just a cleaning formula? I'm guessing it's good for short term (<1-2 months) of protection assuming a humid environment?

I never tried dating it. When I clean a firearm that has been shot with Black Powder I use Murphy's Mix to clean it. Much less expensive than using straight Ballistol. The key to using Murphy's Mix is to slop plenty of it down inside the action, so that when the water and alcohol evaporate, the oily soap will be left behind. Then for good measure I work a little bit of straight Ballistol sown inside. With a revolver, a couple of q-tips will work it down through the hand window and the opening for the hammer. I only take my guns completely apart once a year or so to clean out all the black, oily gunk left down inside.
 
I use a 50/50 mix of Ballistol and water for cleaning BP, and straight Ballistol for cleaning smokeless. Works very well.

Give the whole gun a wipe down with straight Ballistol when it's done.

Seems to work fine for me.
 
I use a 50/50 mix of Ballistol and water for cleaning BP, and straight Ballistol for cleaning smokeless. Works very well.

Give the whole gun a wipe down with straight Ballistol when it's done.

Seems to work fine for me.

I think 50/50 is a belt and braces approach and a 1:10 Ballistol to Water would work.just as well, but otherwise agree entirely with this.
 
Would someone share the ratio of ballistol with water to clean and preserve my cap and ball revolver?

Many thanks.

Like the others I don't see the Ballistol and water mixture as a preservative. Oh sure, the water will evaporate and leave the oil but I don't see it as a good option instead of using straight Ballistol. Instead I see the Moose Milk or Murphy's Mix as more of a cleaning product for when a bucket and soap just isn't to be had.

For CLEANING I do the work in a bucket in the sink so I simply use moderately hot water with a small squirt of liquid dish soap. The water and soap go into a roughly 1 gallon wash up bucket. It's an old small size drywall mud bucket to be honest.

For the fixed barrel to frame Remingtons I fill the bucket up enough that the barrel is fully submerged to the forcing cone and no more. That soaks for a few minutes while the cylinder gets cleaned. Then the bore gets a nylon brush through it for a couple of passes and the barrel and press linkage is rinsed in hot water and toweled and patched dry immediately. The parts are then oiled with Ballistol. Or if I'm shooting again the next day or within the next month for sure then I just use Canola cooking oil.

I've got a few other tricks that I use for brushing out the parts with the soapy water. The cylinder is always a royal pain. But I found that bundling up a half dozen bristle style pipe cleaners and bending it into a "square root sign" shape works as a great brush for cleaning out the blind ended cylinder chambers. Again rinse with hot water than dry with paper towel and oil right away.

Do NOT let the parts soak in the hot soapy water for more than about 2 to 5 minutes tops. If you do there's an increased risk of finding that you got a coating of flash rust. If in doubt do the parts one at a time so you only soak the metal for a short time. Enough to soak into the fouling and lubricants used for lubing the bullets but not long enough to risk the flash rust issue.
 
I understand why people dilute balastol with water because i find it a little to thick. IMO its better when its diluted a little with water i find it more managable.

Ive used it a few times without water but i dont like it near as much as i do when its mixed with water.

When i use it raw it tends to leave behind way to much oil for what i like. Wether its good or not i dont know but when its diluted and wiped off i like the amount of oil it leaves.

I feel im wasting it when i use it raw becasue i find i wipe more of it off to get the right amount to touch and handle.
 
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