When doing a chamber check on an AR, with sized case and a stripped bolt, how hard should the bolt be to turn into position?
Tried to diagnose a feeding problem with my new 224 Valk. Using factory Hornady ELD-M cartridges, about one in four rounds won't let the bolt close. Since a go-gauge is at least a week out, I did some prelim checks. First, I stripped two factory rounds, reseated a 88gr ELD-M to 2.245" COAL, and seated a SE 77 gr match king to recommended 2.160" COAL.
Put some dykem on the points, and dropped each into the (removed) barrel in front of a stripped bolt. I had to use a 1/8" brass rod to help rotate the bolt home on each. The ELD-M showed a definite ring on the ogive. None such on the MK.
So:
Is slightly more than finger tight too tight for the bolt to turn into position?
If too tight, can the bolt be lapped into barrel lugs?
Tried to diagnose a feeding problem with my new 224 Valk. Using factory Hornady ELD-M cartridges, about one in four rounds won't let the bolt close. Since a go-gauge is at least a week out, I did some prelim checks. First, I stripped two factory rounds, reseated a 88gr ELD-M to 2.245" COAL, and seated a SE 77 gr match king to recommended 2.160" COAL.
Put some dykem on the points, and dropped each into the (removed) barrel in front of a stripped bolt. I had to use a 1/8" brass rod to help rotate the bolt home on each. The ELD-M showed a definite ring on the ogive. None such on the MK.
So:
Is slightly more than finger tight too tight for the bolt to turn into position?
If too tight, can the bolt be lapped into barrel lugs?