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ARE these chambers tapered? Evidence please
Well, OP said so - I suppose he measured them in some way, because why would anyone claim something without the data to back it up...ARE these chambers tapered? Evidence please
Well it happens all the time. People say the original Colt chambers were “tapered” as well but they weren’t. They had parallel chambers until just before the bolt slot and then rounded to the breech. As far as I’ve read. That’s after they blew up a bunch of the first model Colt 1860 Army that had straight bored chambers all the way to the breech face.Well, OP said so - I suppose he measured them in some way, because why would anyone claim something without the data to back it up...
Well it happens all the time. People say the original Colt chambers were “tapered” as well but they weren’t. They had parallel chambers until just before then bolt slot and then rounded to the breech. As far as I’ve read. That’s after they blew up a bunch of the first model Colt 1860 Army that had straight bored chambers all the way to the breech face.
that's not sloppy workmanship, it's a product of the reamer. They have a chamfer(a tapered lead if you will) at the end that doesn't cut. They won't cut all the into a square corner in a blind hole. It's a non-issue.Also It seems that in newer Piettas they beefed up that spot behind bolt notch or it is sloppy machining. I can't tell.
Measured a couple of cylinders today. Uberti pocket pistol shows a .010 taper front to rear of the chambers. Older production Uberti 1860 shows a very slight .002 difference front to rear.Now ya got me thinking, I have some gauges to measure bore diameters, I've always just measured at the chamber mouth and slightly deeper, like around a 1/4 inch. I will measure a cylinder or two and get back with you.
Are you measuring at the rear against the breech face? Or just in front of the bolt notch? Curious if they only taper from the notch rearward. Are you using good pin gauges? .002” is within a lot of crappier tools’ error tolerances. Thanks for taking the time to do this.Measured a couple of cylinders today. Uberti pocket pistol shows a .010 taper front to rear of the chambers. Older production Uberti 1860 shows a very slight .002 difference front to rear.
I share Elmer Keith's belief that loose caps cause chainfires and not sparks jumping from one cylinder mouth to another. If that were true, then the grease over the balls would prevent that or if the ball leaves a shaved ring, then it would be airtight such that no spark could pass. However, there is a valley which is not conducive to containing sparks but the additional safety measure of the grease would preclude spark jump.
You can still use lube over the bullets. Obviously the lube in the grooves isn't filling the scratch.
I've read that from geojohn. Much testing and no chainfire even with no caps. Think about it, theres not much fire at the back of the cylinder. Big fire in the front.I've got one that's prone to chainfire. It shaves a good ring and as long as I have over ball lube or a wad under the ball I can leave all the caps off except the one under the hammer and it won't chain. Leave off the wad and lube and it will chain with all the caps on.
I've read that from geojohn. Much testing and no chainfire even with no caps. Think about it, theres not much fire at the back of the cylinder. Big fire in the front.
Contact Pietta customer service !st, they may send you a new cylinder(may have to be fitted)!!Today I experienced my very first chainfire using a new Pietta cylinder. Both I and gun are fine but the cause of chainfire is worth making public to hopefully warn others. The reason was directly me (for not checking all chambers thoroughly before firing) and indirectly Pietta for passing through their quality control a cylinder inherently unsafe to fire. I used lube but without a wad as I assumed bullets give good enough seal that no extra precautions are required. That assumption is roughly true so long as pietta does not pass through a chamber with a deep scratch inside. Bullets were significantly oversized (.456 dia) but it didn't help much. Chainfire on very first cylinder.
View attachment 1155015
So, sparks from adjacent chamber have a direct path to the powder and the result is... you guessed, chainfire. The cylinder was brand new, covered in factory grease. I take it all on me for not inspecting all chambers thoroughly but I post this to serve as a warning that each and every new gun must be THOROUGLY inspected before firing. Chainfire is not the worst thing that could have happend due to such sloppy quality control.
Anyways, I have unscrewed the nipple from the faulty chamber and intend to use it as 5 shooter only for the time being. Any ideas how this can be fixed are highly welcomed.
Got a smart phone?
Take a video of it chainfiring and post it on youtube.
Not going to happen anytime soon. Since my wife died I don't want to do anything, especially stuff she enjoyed that we did together.