Need an inexpensive method for case trimming

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tackbustr

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tackbustr in Texas here....

getting back into reloading and have digital calipers and Lee max size OAL gauge

...but need an inexpensive tool for case trimming to correct OAL for .38 special brass(can't afford the crank type case trimmers)

Will my Wilson chamfer and de burring tool that I have on order work if I twist the case on the outside of the tool ??

Any other inexpensive case trimming solutions / recommendations ??? :confused:

thanks for your help....
tackbustr
 
As stated pistol brass usually never needs trimmed but dont get much cheaper then a lee hand trimmer if you want a trimmer...and get the drill adapter to make it go faster.
 
I trim all brass regardless of what it is. But the old Lee trimmer has worked very well for me for many years. I just chuck it in my drill and can trim, ream, chamfer 100-120 or so pieces per Hr.. I recently timed how long it took to do 50 pieces of handgun brass, but unfortunately I didn't think to log it, but I seem to recall it was about 2 pieces per minute.

The entire set up is only about $12 - $15, and each cartridge specific case length stem is $5 or $6.

GS
 
A relative who is just getting into reloading spent like $11 on a Lee case cutter and case length gauge for the caliber he is loading. Then he chucked in his drill press. After using his setup, I'm 99% sure I'm going to buy the same setup. I currently have a Lyman trimmer and it works, but the Lee setup in the drill press was 10x faster, and quite a bit more accurate. I couldn't believe something so cheap worked so well. I wish I'd gone with that from the get go instead of the Lyman trimmer I have.
 
if the lee didn't hurt my fingers so bad i'd say it would be the cheapest, best trimmer on the market.
I may have to try to solder a couple posts on mine for grip instead of the checkered metal.
 
As stated it doesn't get much better / cheaper than the lee cutter, lock stud and case gauge. Also for any who don't like the small cutter they sell a wooden ball cutter that's easier to hold on to. Or buy some instamorph (www.instamorph.com for info and amazon to order) to form your own custom ergonomic handle for the cutter.
 
Lee hand trimmer, and a variable speed drill, primitive but works good.hdbiker
 
Older Lyman crank-type trimmers are on Ebay for low prices. They can be upgraded down the road with drill motor adapters and carbide cutters.

Like was said, if you already own a drill press it may be best to consider something that can utilize that.
 
i don't trim revolver brass, because it is straightwalled and doesn't grow much. But my method of trimming brass that needs trimmed is the Lee Trimmers, along with the Zip Trim. Fast, easy, very small-doesn't take up hardly any room.
 
the absolute cheapest solution is to just not trim the brass at all. Saves a lot of time and energy and I suspect very, very few reloaders out there have ever bothered to even check case length on handgun brass.

Thousands of rounds for me with no worries, and I don't reload much.
 
Well, unless it is a batch of new revolver brass where the case lengths uniform, I trim it. My .38 Spl and .357 brass that I am shooting was range pickups and the case lengths varied greatly, so I trimmed it all (Several hundred), a little at a time. For loads that I crimp the crimps would have varied greatly if I had not. I like nice uniform crimps. ;)

The cheapest set up I have seen is the Lee. With light .38 Spl loads, once it's done, it's done. It is worth the up front effort to me. But hey, many people don't trim it. :)
 
Thousands of rounds for me with no worries, and I don't reload much.
Click to expand...

You are missing the concept of trimming REVOLVER brass (38 Spl) Most are crimped into the cantalure and if not properly set at the correct length, will jam a revolver and make it useless and non-functional.

Jim
 
Centurian22 said:
As stated it doesn't get much better / cheaper than the lee cutter, lock stud and case gauge. Also for any who don't like the small cutter they sell a wooden ball cutter that's easier to hold on to. Or buy some instamorph (www.instamorph.com for info and amazon to order) to form your own custom ergonomic handle for the cutter.
Click to expand...
I also trim my .357 Brass, no 9mm, but for sure my .357..... Like Walkalong if they are varied length my crimps are goofy, and some Long Cases will Buckle ever so Slightly do to the Longer Length Cases... So all my once fired .357 gets trimmed... havent needed to after that though, well yet

I also agree the lee system is great, I Chuck it in my Drill and can BANG out a lot in a short time..
I use my Lee for .357 and the WFT for .223
 
It isn't the cutter on the lee it is the locking stud that stinks. It locks up, and is hard to open. It needs to have studs on it to help twist it.
 
Eb1 said:
if the lee didn't hurt my fingers so bad i'd say it would be the cheapest, best trimmer on the market.
I may have to try to solder a couple posts on mine for grip instead of the checkered metal.
Click to expand...

A $2 pair of tiny locking pliers (at either Harbor Freight or Lowes) is a great addition to the Lee trimmer But there's a better way.

Rather than trying to get ALL of my cases THE SAME LENGTH, like I used to do, I just accept the fact my case collection contains all different lengths. So, e.g., measuring each resized case length, I throw 1.450" into a 6lb coffee can labelled "1.450", I throw 1.451" into a coffee can labelled "1.451", etc, As reloaded and shot, brass is decapped, resized, remeasured and redistributed. This way I maintain batches of brass all the "same length" needed for a roll crimp, much cheaper, faster, and more precise than the Lee trimmer, or even a power trimmer, allows.

And you already have the caliper so it's free!
 
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