Need some 357 handi rifle help

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I cannot get that darn thing to shoot consistently. Ive tried 6 different kinds of .357. and 5 different kinds of 38 and I cant for the life of me get it to shoot straight. My optics (while cheapo bushnell banner) are on tight. I've tried lead ammo and fmj and jhp and sjhp and the whole shabang. some of my shots are off as much as a foot. Bear in mind that I can hit a six inch plate with a red dot 8-10 times with my ak at 100 yards.


Anyone have any suggestions?
 
have you tried shooting some heavier 180gr rounds through it?

could the longer barrel be over spinning the rounds? do you know the twist rate?
 
Mine was piercing primers when shooting .38's which would drop the pressure enough in the barrel for them to shoot very inconsistent. I would also check to see if that may be your issue.
 
I actually did have a few buffalo bores that I ran through it that were very heavy. Not sure if 180 or what. I only had like 5 of them to shoot, but my recollection tells me that i got a few to ring when aiming just a bit high... Thank you for reminding me of that.
 
just because a scope is tight on a mount does not mean it is not broken... maybe try another scope?
 
Are you by chance using weaver rings? I've had a heck of a time getting my weaver rings to tighten without wobble left in them. I believe it's due to the design on the handis scope rail. Do you have irons on it aswell? Maybe try them to see if you can group.
 
Consistent locking bolt action is critical in a break barrel single shot rifle.

Put some slick grease on the locking bolt, henge pin, and locking bolt recess in the barrel lug.

Then try to close it with the same force each time so the locking bolt always seats the same each time.

And use enough force there is no doubt it is fully seated each time you load it.

In other words, don't baby it one time, and slam it shut the next time.

rc
 
If your Handi .357 is anything like mine, it has a really looooong chamber/throat. Using .357 Mag brass I can seat a 180 grain bullet out until it barely is in the case mouth before it touches the rifling leade. I tried the 215 grain Lyman SWC/GC bullet and seated it out to touch the origin of the rifling and suddenly the gun is a tack driver. I suspect bullets fired in this really long chamber are tipping and not entering into the bore perfectly centered. I recently purchased a few hundred .360 DanWesson cases that are about 5/16" longer than .357 Mag brass. They chamber perfectly in my Handi rifle without any modification/reaming. I won't know for several days whether this will solve the inaccuracy problem but strongly suspect it will.
 
lots of info on graybeard outdoor forums "handi rifle section", plenty of accurizing tips. don't ask how i know?? i have a 44mag handi and it was hard to getting shooting accurately but i did.
Bull
 
I hear isolating the forearm from the barrel by placing an O ring around the mounting screw often helps. I have a 300 blackout that I don't think is performing quite as well as it could and that's the first thing I'm going to try.
 
If your Handi .357 is anything like mine, it has a really looooong chamber/throat. Using .357 Mag brass I can seat a 180 grain bullet out until it barely is in the case mouth before it touches the rifling leade. I tried the 215 grain Lyman SWC/GC bullet and seated it out to touch the origin of the rifling and suddenly the gun is a tack driver. I suspect bullets fired in this really long chamber are tipping and not entering into the bore perfectly centered. I recently purchased a few hundred .360 DanWesson cases that are about 5/16" longer than .357 Mag brass. They chamber perfectly in my Handi rifle without any modification/reaming. I won't know for several days whether this will solve the inaccuracy problem but strongly suspect it will.
Ive read this in many places now...Ive got to check this out. Those buffalo bores I mentioned were a bit longer too.
 
I hear isolating the forearm from the barrel by placing an O ring around the mounting screw often helps. I have a 300 blackout that I don't think is performing quite as well as it could and that's the first thing I'm going to try.
This is pretty common answer as well. Ill try this too.
 
Consistent locking bolt action is critical in a break barrel single shot rifle.

Put some slick grease on the locking bolt, henge pin, and locking bolt recess in the barrel lug.

Then try to close it with the same force each time so the locking bolt always seats the same each time.

And use enough force there is no doubt it is fully seated each time you load it.

In other words, don't baby it one time, and slam it shut the next time.

rc
Rc well try this as well.. I let you all know how it goes next time around. Should be this weekend.
 
Mine seems to really prefer heavier bullets.
i get my best accuracy from SP 158's. Doesn't seem to matter who made them.

110's look like a shotgun pattern. 125's are better but still about dinner plate size.
158's will group 2.5 - 3" IF I do my part.
 
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