New SIG question

They put someone on the phone who said he was a chemist, and one of the interesting things he said was that when you applied it to the guns, and rubbed it around the areas you wanted lubed, if you could still see the white color afterward, you'd applied too much.
I think this pretty much applies to all of them. With any of them, "a little dab will do ya" as they used to say. :)
 
I use slide glide on my 1911 and p series sigs. Never had much issue.

But that said ive used everything from anhydrous graphite and clp to rem oil and wd40 and radco and chainsaw bar oil in the field.....never had any issue. Lol.
 
With long metal rails and heavy volume range shooting, grease seems to work best. Debris appears to pushed off the sliding surfaces to where it doesn't get in the way. Not sure if this applies to some sand / grit / mud tactical reliability fantasy, however.

With four tiny little metal teeth holding on to the slide? Probably far less critical what's used, just as long as it's persistent enough to lubricate the relevant spots.
 
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I think this pretty much applies to all of them. With any of them, "a little dab will do ya" as they used to say. :)

Yeah, even with SIG's emphasis on the metal-framed pistols being 'wet guns' (their words). They repeated that a lot in the armorer class, and even the written test had a fill-in-the-blanks question for how to tell if sufficient lubrication is present, with the answers being confirming it's present by seeing it and feeling it, or sight & touch. If it could run off and migrate by gravity or was able to be wicked off by a holster, then it was too much.

When one of the cop students (that guy) asked what would SIG do if a duty gun was fired dry a lot and it damaged the frame? They said they'd happily sell us a another gun.
 
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Yeah, even with SIG's emphasis on the metal-framed pistols being 'wet guns' (their words). They repeated that a lot in the armorer class, and even the written test had a fill-in-the-blanks question for how to tell if sufficient lubrication is present, with the answers being confirming its present by seeing it and feeling it, or sight & touch.
My paternal grandfather was a steam railroader, for whom oiliness was next to Godliness. Ever see the size of the oil can on a steam engine?
Have to restrain myself; a needle oiler helps. Even my Glocks (the factory recommends that an oil bottle simply be present in the room, when the gun is field stripped... ;) ) get more lube than required.
Concur on boutique lubes; what's in the oiler is extra for the cars. I did get some lithium at the hardware; we'll see.
Moon
 
Generally I shy away from "boutique" lubes & such,
But I might have to try some of THAT.

Reading some of the Amazon reviews, however, emphasizes thin coating or it collects powder residue.
But the that applies to all greases


Idk. I bought it years ago and it lasts forever. I don't think it's anything special. Just a red grease. The alloy p-series frames get white from galling if you use oil so I use that grease. I may or may not have used it on many other guns.

Never noticed it getting gummy with powder or anything either but I do pretty thin. A buddy who trains Troopers and Game Wardens uses it pretty thick in his p-229 (357 sig) and is at 80k rounds with it.

I own a shop and I used to be a brand whore on oils and greases and lubes and such. But the 400-500k mile trucks and cars I see that have never broke are just as often "supertech and fram" as they are Lucas and mobil 1 and royal purple. And the 100k mile vehicles im putting motors in are just as often royal purple and syntec as the cheap stuff. Anymore I don't think it matters so long as you use "something". Same for guns.
 
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