Oil em up.....

[Steve C]

I agree with JohnBiltz that shooters worry too much about lubrication. The good news is that even if you get ti wrong its rarely causes a serious problem.

The only non gun specific lubrication I've used for years is Ed Harris's recommendation of a 50/50 mix of odorless kerosene as thinner and Type F transmission fluid. This combination is a thin lubricant with characteristics of the military's pre 40's sperm wale based lubricant.

Type F transmission fluid has much better characteristics for lubrication of firearms than say an engine motor oil. It is formulated from high quality lubricating oils that contains dispersant additives making it spread between metal surfaces. ATF has superior anti wear along with anti oxidation properties on both steel and copper alloys. It has good high temperature protection and flows well at low temps.

 

[Steve S.]

Most any approximate "gun oil" will work; the parts need a film over them (stay moist) and off you go. Unless one is an ongoing rapid-fire type if shooter, then a film of oil on moving parts is more than enough - the average shooter just doesn't cycle a gun action enough to worry about wear. To wear out a gun action takes lots of shooting - most gun owners do not even come close to putting wear on a gun in a lifetime - those that shoot a single piece a lot will need to be more attentive to cleaning and lube. The neat thing about coming close to wearing out any gun is that you get to buy a new one. Good shooting.

 

[rskent]

I think I will stick with Mobile 1.

For a long time I used Break free LP. I also had some wear issues with a couple of pistols.
I have not had issues since I switched over to Mobile 1. So far I can see no appreciable wear at all.

I will have to see if it stands the test of time.

 

[Zerodefect]

ATF/STP/Red Grease, mixed evenly to a Ketchup thickness.
-flows dirt but sticks in place
-easy as heck to clean
-slick and doesn't ever dry out

Apply with little Testors paint brush. Clean up with Breakfree CLP.

99% chance you'll get cancer from it, but it's thin and slick down to -30.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Wipe the weapon with a soft (T-shirt) rag and lube all moving parts with ATF. Use Red grease for the slide rails.

 

[Shipwreck]

I previously had two Dan Wesson 1911s (stainless and duty coating). I used Breakfree CLP on both, along with two Ed Browns and a Springer Custom 1911 I also once had. Never had any issues.

The newer Duty Coating is not just some coating on top of the gun now. It's a new version. I can't imagine Breakfree CLP would hurt that. And, stainless is stainless.

 

[dekibg]

a sunken submarine's special, secret formula transmission fluid worked best for me over the years.
JK
another ATF vote here

 

[PabloJ]

In you humble but very accurate opinion what would you believe is the best gun oil? Dan Wesson recommends High-quality gun oil such as FP-10, Militec-1 or Dan Wesson Rail Lube. I don't know what that is. They do not recommend CLP. I have been using Weapon Shield that says it meets MILL-L-634600, whatever that is.

Lets see. In old times locks of fine London-made (Purdey, Holland, Woodward,....and less glorious second tier so called rest) received little Sperm Whale oil to them locks. Modern equivalent with same properties is Jojoba oil found in fine cosmetic boutiques. If it is good enough for finest firearms ever made it should be good enough for your palm held clunkers. One huge upside is that it does not contain petroleum distillates therefore it does not cause cancer.

 

[jeepnik]

I've used Gunslik products for years. The graphite lube is great for pistol slides and their Ultra lube works great for everything else.

Back when stainless steel was new for use in handguns problems with galling would sometimes occur. This was before using dissimilar grades of stainless were used. Gunslik graphite lube was the thing for places like slide to frame contact. Still works as advertised all those years ago, even though firearms manufacturers finally learned what engineers in other industries learn years earlier.

 

[RX-79G]

Why would DW say Breakfree hurts the duty finish if it doesn't?

 

[Jurist]

Best gun oil

I've been using Hoppe's gun oil for many,many years.Am I doing it wrong?.

 

[C0untZer0]

Grant Cunningham's article:

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Corrosion tests:

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

For people who like to mix their own stuff up:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

I personally like Lubriplate

 

[RX-79G]

I don't know why people would choose lubricants with nasty chemicals for something they are handling and inhaling if it isn't necessary.

Speaking of which, I should try some of the "all natural", biodegradable bicycle chain lube samples I have.

 

[DaisyCutter]

I use whatever oil I have on hand. Right now I'm using an old stash of Bel-Ray Gear Saver 80W synthetic gear oil. It's left over from ~8 years ago when I used to race a 250cc 2-stroke.

I've found the light, low viscosity oils to migrate away from the areas that need lube. Rem-oil is an example. So I use heavier viscosity oils now. Note, I live in AZ, so cold temperature performance is not a concern.

I scrub with a mixture of 50/50 ATF and kerosene. Then I use a toothpick to apply grease in key areas. The oil is the last step.


I used to use Hoppes, which I like a lot. But I did without in a pinch, and stopped buying it ages ago. Nothing I use to clean or lube is "gun" or "firearm" specific.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

First of all, you cannot directly equate the performance characteristics of gease and oil in one field (such as cars) with that of another field (such as guns).

Lubricants are specially engineered for performance characteristics under certain conditions. For example, just because a certain lubricant is used in high performance dragsters does NOT mean it's optimally suited for passenger cars.

Guns don't have the stress loads that moving parts see in engines, bearings, transmissions, and gear boxes. So guns don't need specific viscosity requirements of such components, just like they don't need all the detergents and other chemicals used in motor oils.

Guns need oil (grease) for two main issues:

1. Proper lubrication for proper function.

2. Prevention of corrosion.

The lubricant must adhere to the gun where it's applied and it must cover and remain in place for a reasonable length of time, without any appreciable change in lubricating characteristics or adherance characteristics.

MOST gun lubricants are perfectly suitable for what they're intended. MOST simple motor oils will also meet these needs.

Personally, I believe the search for "the bestest" is an exercise in rapidly diminishing returns. Unless you have a truly cruddy lubricating oil, you're not likely to see any practical differences.

Find one that you like...so long as your gun functions properly with it AND it provides a lasting protective layer that prevents corrosion between cleanings, it's perfectly suitable.

 

[entropy]

Having worked in several shops, I've used many, many different oils and greases. I will not use WD-40 as a lube. I have cleaned more guns gummed up from their owners using WD-40... Most everything else worked OK. My personal preferences are BreakFreeCLP for lube, and TW-25B for grease. But regular ATF and bearing grease will work for each application also.

 

[CNobbe]

Been using the Lucas Oil stuff Sig sends along with their guns.

 

[JTQ]

RX-79G wrote,
Speaking of which, I should try some of the "all natural", biodegradable bicycle chain lube samples I have.

RX-79G wrote,
Frog Lube has caused way too many unfixable problems to even consider.

Note, Frog Lube is an all natural, biodegradable product.

 

[Lantern]

Before I got my Dan Wesson with a Duty Treat finish I always had SLP 2000 and Gunzilla in my house. They are the best I've found in my opinion.


Now, I just use Kroil and FP-10. My guns still look and run great. Although they don't smell as good(to my nose) and they take a tiny bit longer to clean stubborn deposits.

No big deal.

 

[HoosierQ]

IMHO oil is oil in the short term. Anything that is slippery and withstand a bit of heat will work. Long term storage and rust prevention are the trickier parts. Some products will gum up over time. WD-40 does this. 3-in-1 will do this as well. Motor oil will not. I use all kinds of things.

I like grease. I like GunSlick...wish they still made it but that's steel on steel only. I am about to embark on a period of using Ballistol.

Frankly, it's all good.

 

[cmcgehee]

DW says that the Breakfree CLP has ingredients that will damage the finish on some of their guns. I believe it is the chemical solvent toluene.

You don't need solvents to clean a gun, and you especially don't need solvents to lube a gun. Use any oil and you'll be fine. Synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1 is popular, but your gun would run fine on peanut oil. Just buy a bottle of something simple and popular.


Frog Lube has caused way too many unfixable problems to even consider.

What kind of unfixable problems have you experienced with Froglube? Please elaborate.

 

[JTQ]

What kind of unfixable problems have you experienced with Froglube? Please elaborate.

Reports on various forums (I haven't used the product myself) generally center on the product congealing after long term storage and in cool temperatures. I tend to think this is a case of improper application, most likely using too much. While reading the directions shouldn't be too hard a task for folks to follow, there are a lot of other fine products that don't require as much attention to detail for proper function.

The most interesting complaint I've seen is mold growth on firearms when the guns are stored for extended periods. The "all natural, biodegradable" thing was something got me interested in Frog Lube, but it does make sense that something made from plants could grow mold if kept in a dark, warm place (gun safe).

 

[C0untZer0]

For cleaning I've been using 25% ATF, 25% 0 W10 motor oil, 25% heavy mineral oil and 25% Kerosene.

It works OK


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

I have been using Tetra grease and light lubricant for a while now and have been digging it.

I moved away from the froglube (a fine product) because I know myself well enough to know that I tend to over lubricate stuff.

Frog lube seems to go from grease, to oil, back to grease as the temperature of the gun varies.
As an oil, I had a problem with the lube getting into places it did not belong (firing pin channel) and caused a few light strikes.

I used to use CLP and do not remember why i ever switched (grass is always greener).

 

[RX-79G]

What kind of unfixable problems have you experienced with Froglube? Please elaborate.

I have never used froglube after reading the many accounts of it migrating into places like the FP channel and there being virtually no way of getting it out, causing miss fires.

Google "Froglube firing pin" and read about it yourself.