One AR-15 just one

[horsemen61]

Ok guys so in a recent thread I started I mentioned I bought a PSA rifle kit you know buy the kit stripped lower put it together and away you go with a working rifle. The kit I bought is

PSA 16" M4 Melonite 5.56 NATO 1:7 MOE Freedom Rifle Kit -

Barrel Length: 16"
Gas System: Carbine
Barrel Profile: M4
Barrel Steel: Chrome Moly
Barrel Finish: Melonite
Chrome Lining: none
Muzzle Thread: 1/2-28
Chamber: 5.56 NATO
Twist Rate: 1 in 7"
Barrel Extension: M4
Diameter at Gas Block: .750"
Gas Block Type: F-marked Front Sight Base
Muzzle Device: A2 Flash Hider
Receiver Material: Forged 7075 T6
Receiver Type: M4
Hand guard Type: Magpul MOE Black Handgaurds
Bolt Carrier Group Included: Yes
Bolt Steel: Carpenter 158
Bolt Carrier Profile: Full-auto
Charging Handle included: Yes
Overall Length: 24.5"

This is what I know I bought can I put it together sure no problem but, here is the rub I will likely only have this one AR-15

So what I would like to do is to talk about each and every individual piece. I want to talk about what parts you would put into it being that it is the only one you will ever have I want this to be better than Mil - spec I want a gun I count on trust my life on. A gun that goes bang every time that's as reliable as I can make it. So I ask you guys where would you start please list what you would replace with the new stuff what brands parts numbers would be nice and the biggest part for me why have you chosen this over that?

For now I think that for a 1 ar guy it needs a light sling decent trigger good mags and for this in thinking a red dot

Thanks for your thoughts guys

 

[badkarmamib]

I would also recommend a BCM Gunfighter charging handle, and some kind of flashlight. For a basic setup that is reliable, I wouldn't change any of the hardware the rifle comes with. My $0.02.

 

[ny32182]

The specs look decent, but if I could only have ONE, I would just buy it assembled from a "tier 1" company, add your choice of sights, and call it good.

 

[adcoch1]

MOE stock to match the handguard, an axis Razor or BCM ambi charging handle, a magpul BAD lever, a complete extra bolt (not carrier) in the handle, a single point sling plate at the receiver/stock junction, a set of buis probably Yankee Hill or magpul, and a C-more reddot. Plus i would put a magpul mloc vertical grip at the front slot on the foregrip. Just about perfect in my opinion.

Sent from my LGLS740 using Tapatalk

 

[Llama Bob]

Personally, if I were going to have 1 AR there's no way I'd have a non-free-float handguard on it. Get a good, stable buttstock too - Magpul PRS, LMT, whatever.

I would also go with a variable power optic, not a fixed 1x. Anything you can get down in the 3x range works fine for CQB if need be, while still giving you the capability to use it as a real rifle.

I'd put a Rhodesian type sling on it, even custom made one if need be. They're far and away the fastest type of sling that notably stabilizes shooting.

I'd go with a dual stage trigger in the 4lb range. I really like the AR Gold trigger, but there are several pretty good ones out there.

And then I'd practice A LOT from standing, slung prone, barricade, and rucksack prone positions. Plus bipod prone if you're going to use a bipod. Your goal should be to keep the vast majority of shots in 2MOA from the prone and barricade positions, and 4-6 MOA from standing. That can get a little worse for rapid fire, but not much. 99 times out of 100, the least reliable part is the nut behind the buttstock.

 

[AABEN]

Horseman what else could a man want. AMMO

 

[Quentin]

Assuming you are like most AR owners, over time you're gonna end up replacing a lot of parts. So the old ones sit in the closet as more join the party. You will reach critical mass where those old parts morph back into your initial PSA kit.

Yeah, it's impossible over time to eat just one AR!

 

[Corpral_Agarn]

Personally, I would get a nice trigger (I like Geisselle SSA), a flashlight and an optic of your choosing. For me that would be a red dot.

That setup will pretty much cover 0-500 yrds if you have good eye sight.

 

[strambo]

I'd probably sell the upper and buy an upper from BCM complete with ff rail of your choice. Add the BCM gunfighter ch and a quality bolt from LMT, DD or BCM (keep the PSA bolt which is perfectly fine as a spare.)

The receiver extension is likely the softer 6000 series aluminum. I'd get a mil spec dia. extension made from 7075. This part can fail or get bent if the rifle is banged into something hard. Add stock and grip of your choice, trigger maybe, if so geiselle SSA or G2S.

 

[mdThanatos]

If you want better than "Mil-Spec" then take a look at the barrel as well as the other parts listed. It's only listed as Chrome Moly, but what kind, 4140? 4150? Is it a CHF? HPT/MPI? Is your bolt HPT/MPI tested as well?

Does this include any extra parts for maintenance? If it doesn't then you may want to consider a spare parts kit if you are serious about this being your only AR. Bolts wear out, granted it will take quite a bit of shooting. Gas rings, extractors, does the extractor have a good spring, insert and/or o-ring?

You really won't know what all you will need until you start shooting it. For all you know the gas port could be the wrong size, leading to either being over or under gassed. Do you know what kind of stock, buffer tube, spring and buffer you are going to go with? Those can have an impact on reliability as well.

 

[dragon813gt]

Put it together and spend your money on ten thousand rounds. After you've put that many rounds through it decide what you want to improve upon. There is no replacement for training. Most people will never put 10k through their rifle. But will tell you that you "need" to spend thousands to have a decent AR.

 

[bullzeye8]

Depends how much you want to spend. The order of my recommended upgrades would be.
1. High end drop in trigger, (I have the AR-Gold which is awesome but many others like the ELF, Timney, etc. would be great.
2. Free Float Hanguard and lo-pro adjustable gas block (both of these are JP on mine and I would highly recommend their handguard and gas block)
3. JP Silent Capture Spring (significantly reduces annoying spring noise and makes AR much more enjoyable to shoot)
4. Extended charging handle whether BCM or other brand
5. Good optic (I like my Leupold VX-2 1.25-4x20)
6. JP BCG (For less money but still better than PSA go Daniel Defense.)
7. JP Supermatch barrel
8. New stock of choice

I have done up to #5 on my only AR which is a Rock River. 6, 7, and 8 I would like to do but limited funds prevent that for now. Every single one of those upgrades led to a noticeable difference in how my AR shot and how enjoyable it was. If you do those I bet you will be very very pleased with your AR and if you have extra money 6,7, and 8 would be great upgrades also but at the point you would be better off selling what you have and just buying a JP-15.

 

[md7]

OP, I'm not an AR expert. So, I turn to those that are (or are closer to it than I am) to get an idea as to what makes a "professional" grade rifle professional grade.

The following seem to be common among rifles with that or similar designation. This list probably is far from conclusive, as I'm merely a novice regurgitating what I've heard, read, researched, and experimented with:

Barrels made of 4150 cmv steel (button rifled or hammer forged)
1/7 or 1/8 (in some instances) twist ratio
HPT/MPI done on each barrel by independent source
Chrome lined or comparable (melonite/salt nitride) bore and chamber
5.56 NATO chamber
158 carpenter steel bolt (HPT/MPI tested and marked on each bolt)
Tool steel extractor
Parkerized FA bolt carrier with interior chrome lining, gas key fastened with #8 grade fasteners and properly staked
Mil spec diameter receiver extension of 7075 series aluminum
Staked castle nut
A lpk of quality metal with proper heat treat

Again, probably not conclusive.

That's about all I can recollect, and those are pretty much the high points that I see again and again with companies like colt, bcm, sionics, lmt, kac, etc.. You can visit more AR centric boards and literally get lost in assembly specs, tolerances, quality assurance protocol, etc. that were not mentioned above.

 

[W.E.G.]

Sounds good to me for a blaster-grade AR.

Change nothing.

Assemble it, and shoot it a lot.

After you put a few cases of ammo though it, you will know what else/other YOU want.

 

[Tirod]

Building an expensive custom gun with "better than milspec" parts leads to owning a gun that costs MORE than TWO duty grade shooters.

Two guns are better than one.

The concept is false economy anyway. Put 20,000 rounds thru it and even issue bolts start cracking and need replacement. A thread on ARfcom by a rental range operator points out the AR can go 200,000 rounds in a year FULL AUTO before there are problems, the bolt, extractor, and some springs getting replaced along the way. At that point the barrel usually needs it.

Build what you have and go shoot it - prove it's reliable in function, then feed it with good magazines and first tier ammo. At that point the major cause of reliability issues will be The Operator - not the gun. Focus on learning how to use it until you can't do it wrong. Then the combination of gun and you will work as a system to it's highest ability.

For the most part it's not the gun that causes the problems, it's the misuse and abuse of the operator and their neglect that causes issues. Contract bid milspec M4's only cost about $850 in volume - what you have listed is largely that.

Just build it and shoot it. Spending twice as much and still only having one gun doesn't make it reliable until you are.

 

[evtSmtx]

The cruelest deceptions are those we foist upon ourselves "1 ar 15". Yeah, I believed that at one time too. My wife knew better but let me think she believed me. She's the one!

 

[mavracer]

If I was only gonna have one I'd want something along the SPR Mk12 line, mine has a 16" White Oak match grade SS 1 in 7 twist barrel with a wylde chamber a free float handguard and a Geiselle G2s trigger and it's topped with a 3-9 Leupold

 

[Llama Bob]

If I was only gonna have one I'd want something along the SPR Mk12 line, mine has a 16" White Oak match grade SS 1 in 7 twist barrel with a wylde chamber a free float handguard and a Geiselle G2s trigger and it's topped with a 3-9 Leupold

I agree that accurized mid-length ARs are the only really interesting configuration. Even there I'd rather be in .308, but 5.56 does offer the option to shoot cheap surplus accurately.

 

[MistWolf]

Don't worry about this being your only AR. Chances are, it's going to morph over the coming years. Build your rifle as is and go shoot it before making any kind of change. Shooting your rifle will let you know what, if any, changes should be made.

Ammo before accessories. Shoot before modifying

 

[md7]

Ammo before accessories. Shoot before modifying

Much truth in this statement.

 

[Ibmikey]

Just one AR ? Is that even allowed? I "just have one Colt 6920" and the other twenty five or so in safes and racks are my back up rifles. I normally suggest to a new shooter that they put the accessories on the back burner and concentrate on having a shelf full of magazines and lots of ammo.....lots of ammo!
When the next famine comes you will still be able to make your shooting trips if the shelf has lots of ammo. I am still shooting .22 lr that i bought thirty years ago. Good luck with your first AR and hope there are more in your future.

 

[stevebla]

Build it, shoot it. Start on your next one or an upper, one for red dot and irons, and one for scope 3x12 or more. Have fun.

 

[Warp]

If you want better than "Mil-Spec" then take a look at the barrel as well as the other parts listed. It's only listed as Chrome Moly, but what kind, 4140? 4150? Is it a CHF? HPT/MPI? Is your bolt HPT/MPI tested as well?

Does this include any extra parts for maintenance? If it doesn't then you may want to consider a spare parts kit if you are serious about this being your only AR. Bolts wear out, granted it will take quite a bit of shooting. Gas rings, extractors, does the extractor have a good spring, insert and/or o-ring?

You really won't know what all you will need until you start shooting it.

Pretty much this ^

 

[AABEN]

3 years ago I said I would not have an AR now I have 3 of them all 3 is a different brand and an extra upper. The extra upper on my old lower has help with accurate The extra upper is a different brand. I have only shot around 200 throw it the old upper has had over 5000 rounds and was not taken care of. 1 of the AR has had around 1000 the other is close to a 1000 and are very accurate one likes 69 Gr and the other liker 62 Gr.

 

[yugorpk]

The lower doesnt matter. Upper does. If you are getting one get a decent barrel and by decent I mean Colt or equivalent. $300 for a M4 barrel and $160 for the upper receiver. Then add whatever other stuff you want.