>> I am trying to achieve a lighter pull and also to have less recoil with standard factory loads (WWB, UMC, etc.). That is why I am changing the hammer spring. Hadn't heard of a smaller radius on the FP stop to get this. Can you explain that one to me and is it something I can simply do with a file??? <<
The Old Fuff is pushed for time, but for now this is a short answer.
The various springs in the 1911 design are balanced and may do more then one thing. Changing a spring, or several ones, may have unintended consequences. The hammer spring does (at least) two things. It drives the hammer to fire a cartridge and the hammer also acts as a brake to help slow the slide during the extraction/ejection cycle. You will notice that it is harder to hand-cycle the slide when the hammer is forward then it is when the hammer is cocked. At this point a light bulb in your head should go on.
Browning set the spring tensions to work with 230-grain hardball. If you use a lighter hammer spring, and don't do something to compensate for it you will have a lighter trigger pull, but you may (or may not) get some problems with the way (or speed) the slide travels. In an extreme situation the result could be battering of the frame by the slide followed by a cracked frame. A firing pin stop with a smaller radius on the bottom resists pushing the hammer backwards to a degree, and might (just might) compensate for the lighter hammer spring. You can’t file your present stop because you need more metal, not less. Tuner has posted at least one thread on this and maybe a search will turn it up.
As a rule, you can reduce "felt recoil" by going to a stronger recoil spring, but again there are limits. Simply changing springs can be a can of worms, but it’s easy to go backwards to where you were if you have to.
Keep in mind that the pistol's original specifications called for a minimum trigger pull of 6 pounds. With the "correct" springs and hammer/sear set-up that's what you get. I consider between 4 and 5 pounds to be good on a pistol that's carried and/or used "cocked & locked." Gamers go less then that, but trigger pulls under 4 pounds make me nervous, except on bullseye target guns.
As someone pointed out dry firing will polish (actually burnish) the sear edge and hammer hooks, but I suspect that you’ve used this particular pistol enough to accomplish that.
I hold to the view that trigger pull work should be done by professionals, or individuals that are both informed and experienced. It’s sort of like do-it-yourself brain surgery. If you are determined to push ahead I would suggest you research and download any and all of 1911 Tuner’s threads that you can find. They are a gold mine of reliable information.