Poll- Will you grind on your gun?

[Fast Frank]

Just curious... how many of you will grind on your gun?

For the sake of conversation, lets say it's a nice gun that cost you $1000. It does everything just like it's supposed to, but it has a sharp edge that's uncomfortable and simply rounding that edge would make it better. Would you?

Personally, I would and do. But I know a lot of folks that would bleed for years before ever considering the idea of actually cutting metal off a gun they payed good money for.

I'm not a gunsmith, but I know how to fix the blue and I'm not scared to fit a new or different part, round off and edge, or whatever. Yes, I have a Dremel and a whole box full of cutting, polishing, and grinding bits and I'm not scared to use it.

Let's see if i'm a minority on this!

 

[CraigC]

Depends on what it is. If it's stainless, no holds barred. If not, then finish work is a consideration.

 

[edwardware]

I bobtailed a like-new Colt Combat Commander. . . and it's my EDC.

Edit: I used a standing disk sander for most of the stock removal, so it counts as grinding!

 

[JohnKSa]

Grind is probably not the correct term as I am very shy about using anything other than hand power for this application.

That said, I have filed, sanded and polished on stainless steel guns when I can tell for certain I'm going to make things better and when I know for certain that I'm not going to screw things up. Knowing one's limitations is critical--that's where most people go wrong.

 

[chicharrones]

Grind makes me think of power grinders and angle grinders. I've modified tools with grinders, but not with guns, yet.

I have used hand files and fine sand paper/emory to "adjust" guns to my needs on more than one occasion, that's for sure.

 

[ewlyon]

I don't often do this on external parts, but if it is something that makes me not want to use the gun as much I won't hesitate. Last month I pulled the trigger out of a security six and ground off the trigger grooves then smoothed the trigger face because the grooves just made it uncomfortable. Still thinking I am gonna pull it out and round the sides a bit more because one of them is still a little sharp.

 

[entropy]

I did it for a paying job on others' guns, so why not my own?
I agree with chicarrones, grind might not be the best word. I rarely even used a Dremel. Files and ceramic stones are much better for such work.

 

[tubeshooter]

I have done a couple of here and there modifications, but as others have said "grind" is probably too strong a word for all but one case.


Light work with sandpaper, files, steel wool or a jeweler's cloth is much more likely. If I think it's something beyond my own ability and confidence level, I am happy to let my gunsmith do the work.

 

[Scooter22]

I don't grind on any of my firearms. But I have relieved sharp edges and such with stones, jewelers files and emery cloth. I do try to avoid it on visible blued surfaces.

 

[sparkyv]

grind might not be the best word. I rarely even used a Dremel. Files and ceramic stones are much better for such work.

YES, files, Dremel, stones, sandpaper was more of what I was thinking when I answered "yes" to the poll.

 

[bannockburn]

I did have a Colt New Agent that had sharp spots to it on either side of the grip frame near the mainspring housing. A few passes with a Swiss file cleaned it right up and you really couldn't tell it had even been filed. Have used Swiss files and various grades of sandpaper working on stainless guns, fitting the slide assembly of a CZ Kadet .22 conversion kit, and for smoothing out some polymer frames. Also have built my own 1911 from the frame up; still no need for any grinding, just some light contouring of a few sharp edges and for cleaning up of any rough spots inside the frame and slide.

 

[Fast Frank]

So... case in point.

I have a Kimber .22 conversion kit, and a stainless TLE2 in .45 acp.

Great, huh? Just slap the .22 slide on there and go shoot. Except the slide won't go on.

The Kimber uses a Schwatrz Safety. It's similar to the series 80 stuff, except it's not hooked to the trigger. Instead, it works off the grip safety so it avoids reducing trigger feel.

So, when I try to slide the .22 top on the little pin that works the firing pin lock interferes with the slide. The bottom of the .22 slide is different and the clearance is far less where that pin is.

What to do? Grind the pin shorter? I think not. This is a serious duty handgun and reducing travel on the firing pin lock could get me killed.

Cut a notch in the bottom of the slide for clearance? No thanks.

Wait a minute...Why is there a clearance problem? This is all Kimber stuff and it should fit.

Oh. I see. Remember that plastic mainspring housing that bugged me so much? Remember how I put that Ed Brown Flat Stainless one on there? It was years ago and I had forgotten all about it.

Remember how I had to fit the top of that housing because it wouldn't release the grip safety? Yeah. that's it. It's still not letting the grip safety move far enough rearward to allow the Schwarts Safety to drop down far enough to install the slide.

I pulled the grip safety off, Dremel a little off the "Ears" where the grip safety rest when released, and there ya go. Now it accepts both slides just like it should.

So that's what I was doing when I posted this poll. I wonder how many folks would just sell the .22 conversion kit and never get to play with it over a problem like this.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Well, people pay me good money to put guns, including very expensive ones, in a machine vise and cut on them. So, yeah.

 

[84B20]

Les Baer Custom does all the grinding I need. You can't improve on perfection.

 

[3Crows]

I smooth and work most of my guns. I am pretty good at it so most would never know it has been done. The loading gate on most Marlins will bite, I always work that edge and adjust the gate. Did some work on my new Savage 11 "Scout" as well. Working my Marlin 1895 right now to set the magazine with a little less barrel tension. My Kimber 1911 is one of the few guns I have owned that needed nothing (other than a Wolf spring) right out of the box. I have a shop and tools and do not do farm technology. It is either right or it is not.

3C

 

[Valkman]

Grinding is what I did on steel to make knives. Taking some sandpaper to sharp edges on a stainless gun or replacing internals is no problem.

 

[BSA1]

In the context of the word grind yes I have and will. In the past I converted 4" barrel S&W Model 10's from square butt to round butt. Let me tell you that metal is hard! Hacksawed off a big chunk of the corner, slow work on the grinding wheel to keep from removing too much metal and getting it to hot, then hand files and finely wet and dry sandpaper. With cold blue they turned off pretty nice. So nice in fact other Officers wanted them and I, foolishly, never kept one for myself.

I would do another pre-lock Model 10 if it was finished challenged enough or stainless steel LEO trade-in.

Most of my work is much more conservative with hand files, stones and wet and dry sandpaper.

 

[Walkalong]

Grind is probably not the correct term

Definitely.

 

[Walkalong]

I did the scallop on the rear of the ejection port many years ago when me eyesight was still superb. File and sandpaper.


I did the "checkering" with a dremel. Not beautiful, but works great. A simple crisscross pattern.

 

[Ru4real]

I ground a brand new Model 92 in 45 colt in December before I ever fired it. It would feed 200 to 250 gr RN as purchased. After file work it now feeds everything I load including 255 SWC, 265 WFN, 300 gr truncated cone, 335 WFN.

In my opinion, this type of tweaking is what makes us the 1 percenters.

 

[Good Ol' Boy]

Being a carpenter by trade and a hobby woodworker for quite some time, I have no qualms about working on a wooden stock or grips.

Anything metal related for me would be very minimal. Trigger sears and smoothing burs or bumps are probably the extent for me. And that's done with hand tools, no "grinding".

 

[JeffG]

I am a 30 year student of "Pistolsmithing" by George Nonte. Most of my mods were on 1911s for better function.

 

[Danoobie]

If it's a replaceable part, I'll get the replacement, and grind on it, then install it. I get guns to shoot them, so if it's not too
damaging a change, I will make it, but I consider my firearms to be 100% shooter value, 0% collector value.

Now here's a question I've been pondering for a long time:
What's up with mag releases? WHY do manufacturers let them protrude almost half
an inch, so when you holster the gun, POP! Goes The Ma-ag! Are these people spiteful, dipwads,
or is there some mysterious paradigm, of which I'm unaware, where having a massive protruding
mag release is a GOOD thing?

Because 50%+ of my armoring tends to go to making mag releases with a lower profile...

 

[medalguy]

I bought a new Remington Talo 1911 and out of the box it had really sharp corners on the mag well. A little judicious stoning with an EDM stone and cold blue and there's no more sharp edges and the gun looks great, but I wouldn't say I would "grind" on ANY gun.

 

[Kano383]

Grind, as in Dremel-away-your-heart’s-content, no, but retouching what needs to be retouched, smoothed, rounded off for function, absolutely yes. I don’t think there is any gun of mine that did not have some work done on it at a time or an other.

My guns are tools, whether they cost $500 or $10,000, and they are meant to be used. So whatever hinders comfort of use (like too sharp edges), or function in any way gets worked on.

As others have said, jewellers files, stones, sandpaper, emeri cloth used carefully... Even a Dremel if there is ramp work on a rifle. Carefully and slowly, thinking three times before removing any metal, and checking often...