Price check on fn mauser

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A fellow from another forum has a commercial fn mauser in thinking about buying, I've been looking for one to build a 280ai on. The gun from the pictures look nice, almost to nice to pull the barrel off. It's a 3006 he said $400 would take it, we have not talked about shipping so that maybe another $25-$50 and $25 transfer fee for me.

I don't know when it was made but at least it has the steel bottom metal. I've been trying to find a early action without the extra cut but no luck.

Other options are Simpson's Ltd has huskys for around $350-$400 some I believe are fn actions so I'd have to check if I go that route.

So what do you think.

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If in good condition, an FN action alone is worth more than $400.
Ya kinda what I figured, I could sell the barrel for a little and the stock of I get something different. I can get a new barrel for under $200 closer to $150 so I will have a nice 280ai for around $600 minus what I can get for the takeoff parts.
 
Sounds pretty good to me. The bottom metal looks particularly attractive.

Assuming you buy it, once you can take the action out of the stock check the flat on the underside of the receiver ring, behind the recoil lug. FN stamps their coded date for post-war manufacture there.

FNDateCodes.jpg

The Huskys with the 98-type ejectors have FN actions, and usually some version of the flag safety. Their others are either M96-based (the bolt shroud shape is the giveaway) or the later HVN action with a different type of ejector.
 
Sounds pretty good to me. The bottom metal looks particularly attractive.

Assuming you buy it, once you can take the action out of the stock check the flat on the underside of the receiver ring, behind the recoil lug. FN stamps their coded date for post-war manufacture there.

View attachment 1032492

The Huskys with the 98-type ejectors have FN actions, and usually some version of the flag safety. Their others are either M96-based (the bolt shroud shape is the giveaway) or the later HVN action with a different type of ejector.
Thanks aren't the later husky action kinda a fn copy. I think some of the 98s were small shank to. I'll have to look what model numbers are good, which is a pain since each cartridge has a different model number I believe.
 
Thanks aren't the later husky action kinda a fn copy. I think some of the 98s were small shank to. I'll have to look what model numbers are good, which is a pain since each cartridge has a different model number I believe.

HVA has a mix of Mauser features but doesn't exactly match anything else. My belief is that when Husqvarna decided to make their own action in-house, they tried to inject a greater degree of production economy into the design without sacrificing what they considered the most important Mauser essentials. The Mauser heritage is obvious, but (for example) the HVA receiver and bolt stop are considerably easier components to machine. You can spot a few of the differences in this old advert (albeit low rez):

HVAAd.jpg
 
HVA has a mix of Mauser features but doesn't exactly match anything else. My belief is that when Husqvarna decided to make their own action in-house, they tried to inject a greater degree of production economy into the design without sacrificing what they considered the most important Mauser essentials. The Mauser heritage is obvious, but (for example) the HVA receiver and bolt stop are considerably easier components to machine. You can spot a few of the differences in this old advert (albeit low rez):

View attachment 1032573
They are a C cut aren't they, guys seem to really not like the H cut on the post was fn action. I don't think it makes much difference but I'd like to find a earlier fn action with the c cut, I think those action used the 98 bolt shroud witch I prefer. I'm not a big fan of the rocker type side safeties.

I've read fn actions aren't the strongest for big magnums but I'd think it should be as strong as a wine m70 but the fn bolt shroud does not divert gas as well.
 
They are a C cut aren't they, guys seem to really not like the H cut on the post was fn action. I don't think it makes much difference but I'd like to find a earlier fn action with the c cut, I think those action used the 98 bolt shroud witch I prefer. I'm not a big fan of the rocker type side safeties.

I've read fn actions aren't the strongest for big magnums but I'd think it should be as strong as a wine m70 but the fn bolt shroud does not divert gas as well.
It's funny that the side safety is what makes that gun interesting to me....I'm sure 99.9% of people agree with you that loosing the shroud mounted safety is abhorrent.
 
It's funny that the side safety is what makes that gun interesting to me....I'm sure 99.9% of people agree with you that loosing the shroud mounted safety is abhorrent.
I like side safetys, I like Remington and really like the 3 position on the m18. I just don't like the rocker type, only thing I hate about the tikkas. Just nitpicking.
 
i recently have been playing with a fn commercial rifle from the early 50s. beware of bolt face cut out. todays rim sizes of 270 06 etc are running .462 approx..... older brass and new rws brass runs .468 to .470.....
so there is two much slop in the boltface and i have a single shot gun. i have a bolt from a military mauser with a tighter cut out. but need a handle welded on it and headspace checked. dc
 
i recently have been playing with a fn commercial rifle from the early 50s. beware of bolt face cut out. todays rim sizes of 270 06 etc are running .462 approx..... older brass and new rws brass runs .468 to .470.....
so there is two much slop in the boltface and i have a single shot gun. i have a bolt from a military mauser with a tighter cut out. but need a handle welded on it and headspace checked. dc
There are ways around that
 
They are a C cut aren't they, guys seem to really not like the H cut on the post was fn action. I don't think it makes much difference but I'd like to find a earlier fn action with the c cut, I think those action used the 98 bolt shroud witch I prefer. I'm not a big fan of the rocker type side safeties.

FWIW, my 1948-dated Husqvarna was before the broaching cut and my 1950 after, so FN must have instituted this change around 1949.

FNandHeymBarrelShoulders.JPG

I'm indifferent about Mauser safety types. The 3-position makes bolt disassembly easier but isn't scope-friendly. The commercial 2-position flag isn't hard to operate, but both the flag-types can rattle. Trigger safeties work fine but require a different stock inlet.
 
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