Problem with Lee Turret primer arm
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Mine did something fairly similar to what has been described by many others, in my case the primer seating pin was slightly bent. If you can rotate the shell holder and the flange contacts in the same general direction, this might be your problem. I used a driver handle, one of those multi-bit magnetic screwdriver types, removed the shell holder, lowered the ram fully and with the driver over the pin, gently bent it in the opposite direction of where it was contacting. It didn't take much to center it, and it hasn't stuck since.
Zip tie works great; solves two priming arm problems
I saw this thread was started in 2009 and I'm very glad folks revived it in 2011 so that it showed up in the top of in my Google search.
I bought a used Lee classic cast turret press and have had so many priming problems, I thought I got rooked. Same issues as I'm seeing here, along with another one, I'll explain in a minute. The zip tie worked for both problems.
I studied the problems I was having, looking online for solutions, looking at Lee videos, etc. I tried sanding (400 and 600 grit) the inside of the primer arm slot (which is not machined very well); the edges of the slot where there could be burrs; the primer arm itself. Cleaned everything carefully. I added powdered graphite to make it slicker. No dice.
My primer arm was sticking twice. Using CCI 500 small primers, loading 9mm, on the downstroke of the ram, the new primer was hanging up on the outside edge of the shell holder as the primer arm was _trying_ to move vertical to get into position to seat the new primer. Lee has a video explaining why they think this happens (primer arm/ram slightly rotated in the plane of the workbench), but my press was lined up fine, so their solution was not for me. My issue only happened with a primer in the cup. The primer sticks above the cup just a tiny amount, and that's enough to cause a hang-up.
Second sticking problem was exactly as described in this thread: primer cup sticks on the inside of the shell holder. I'm using a #19 Lee shell holder (proper one for 9mm Luger). Not a thing wrong with the shell holder, and machined nicely. But if I put a small amount of pressure on the shell holder, I could cause the primer arm cup to free and the primer arm would drop as it was supposed to.
I had solved the first problem by duct taping a small sliver of wood underneath the primer arm so that the primer arm would contact the wood first on the downstroke of the ram, moving the primer arm into its vertical position just a bit sooner than designed. That allowed the primer in the cup to clear the outside edge of the shell holder.
The second problem was harder to fix (sticking inside the shell holder). I am convinced this is a tolerance buildup in Lee's design: in the shell holder slot, in the primer arm slot, and probably most importantly, in the primer arm itself. The primer arm is mostly cast (I think), but the spring-loaded pin/cup needs to be drilled perfectly, and then if the primer arm is dropped on the floor and hits that pin, I'll bet that can bend the pin just enough to cause misalignment with the hole in the shell holder. Folks have reported problems with new primer arms, and with older or new equipment, so I figure it could just be a tolerancing issue.
The zip tie solves both problems for me, most of the time. I had one instance where the primer cup got stuck too hard inside the shell holder and the zip tie didn't pull it down. But other than that, the zip tie works great, and it also replaces the ugly piece of wood I had duct taped on the base of the press.
Lee should consider adding something like this to their design. They are relying on their machining and tolerances, and it's not working for a lot of folks.
I saw this thread was started in 2009 and I'm very glad folks revived it in 2011 so that it showed up in the top of in my Google search.
I bought a used Lee classic cast turret press and have had so many priming problems, I thought I got rooked. Same issues as I'm seeing here, along with another one, I'll explain in a minute. The zip tie worked for both problems.
I studied the problems I was having, looking online for solutions, looking at Lee videos, etc. I tried sanding (400 and 600 grit) the inside of the primer arm slot (which is not machined very well); the edges of the slot where there could be burrs; the primer arm itself. Cleaned everything carefully. I added powdered graphite to make it slicker. No dice.
My primer arm was sticking twice. Using CCI 500 small primers, loading 9mm, on the downstroke of the ram, the new primer was hanging up on the outside edge of the shell holder as the primer arm was _trying_ to move vertical to get into position to seat the new primer. Lee has a video explaining why they think this happens (primer arm/ram slightly rotated in the plane of the workbench), but my press was lined up fine, so their solution was not for me. My issue only happened with a primer in the cup. The primer sticks above the cup just a tiny amount, and that's enough to cause a hang-up.
Second sticking problem was exactly as described in this thread: primer cup sticks on the inside of the shell holder. I'm using a #19 Lee shell holder (proper one for 9mm Luger). Not a thing wrong with the shell holder, and machined nicely. But if I put a small amount of pressure on the shell holder, I could cause the primer arm cup to free and the primer arm would drop as it was supposed to.
I had solved the first problem by duct taping a small sliver of wood underneath the primer arm so that the primer arm would contact the wood first on the downstroke of the ram, moving the primer arm into its vertical position just a bit sooner than designed. That allowed the primer in the cup to clear the outside edge of the shell holder.
The second problem was harder to fix (sticking inside the shell holder). I am convinced this is a tolerance buildup in Lee's design: in the shell holder slot, in the primer arm slot, and probably most importantly, in the primer arm itself. The primer arm is mostly cast (I think), but the spring-loaded pin/cup needs to be drilled perfectly, and then if the primer arm is dropped on the floor and hits that pin, I'll bet that can bend the pin just enough to cause misalignment with the hole in the shell holder. Folks have reported problems with new primer arms, and with older or new equipment, so I figure it could just be a tolerancing issue.
The zip tie solves both problems for me, most of the time. I had one instance where the primer cup got stuck too hard inside the shell holder and the zip tie didn't pull it down. But other than that, the zip tie works great, and it also replaces the ugly piece of wood I had duct taped on the base of the press.
Lee should consider adding something like this to their design. They are relying on their machining and tolerances, and it's not working for a lot of folks.
1SOW
Member
I use the nylon tie and it works fine with the Lee 'turret' press, but I still had alignment problems with 9mm cases. The LEE #19 "UNIVERSAL:" shell holder was the problem, It has too much 'slop' for 9mm cases. It's made to fit about umpteen cases including 40cal.
I tried a more specific size LEE holder recommended here on the forum, and it was still too loose. Someone recommended an RCBS 9mm shellholder, but I got tired of 'stabs in the dark'.
I shaped a .005" thick piece of tempered steel shim stock to exactly fit the bottom of the shell holder. I drilled the 1/4" hole in the bottom and enlarged it just a couple of thousandths (to clear the primer 'cup'), and then carefully JB Welded it to the bottom of the case holder using a flat clamp until the epoxy dried.
My 9mm cases still are able to move enough to fully align with the dies, but the case doesn't "bounce" out of position any more. The case won't "tilt" any more, and my priming is now smooth as silk..
Find a case holder that actually fits 9mm or whatever cases you're priming if you can..
SSN Vet
Member
The primer cup can be slightly out of round and if aligned with the elongated side of the "oval" perpendicular to the slot in the ram, it can bind. Rotating the cup 90 deg will often return it to free movement.
I just went out to the garage to check it with the calipers. Measures .246 all around, so that doesn't seem to be the issue this time. Thanks for the suggestion, though.
I also looked at the fit of the 9mm casings in the shell holder and see exactly what 1SOW is talking about. There is a lot of slop in the slot where the head goes into the holder. Seems most of the other makers' shell holders are also "universal."
Maybe I will try the shim that 1SOW mentions, because even when the priming arm worked and the primers were being seated, they often were not being seated cleanly/straight/evenly, and I never got a consistent "feel" or sound when the primers were seating.
I also looked at the fit of the 9mm casings in the shell holder and see exactly what 1SOW is talking about. There is a lot of slop in the slot where the head goes into the holder. Seems most of the other makers' shell holders are also "universal."
Maybe I will try the shim that 1SOW mentions, because even when the priming arm worked and the primers were being seated, they often were not being seated cleanly/straight/evenly, and I never got a consistent "feel" or sound when the primers were seating.
1SOW
Member
I had .005" shim steel on hand. I'd go .006" if I had to buy it at the auto parts store.
Be really careful to apply a 'minimum' amount of epoxy glue. Do NOT have enough to push it into the primer arm hole or UP on the case slot. It only takes a very little to hold it in place, because it's not under stress to move. Also make sure it is resting "flat" on the bottom of the case holder.
Be really careful to apply a 'minimum' amount of epoxy glue. Do NOT have enough to push it into the primer arm hole or UP on the case slot. It only takes a very little to hold it in place, because it's not under stress to move. Also make sure it is resting "flat" on the bottom of the case holder.
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