RCBS automatic priming tool is locked up

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I've had a few priming tools and have grown to like this one, but after a few hundred rounds, it started to give resistance and wasn't seating primers below the case head. I noticed a few were slightly dimpled on the edge. I set aside cases that weren't primed properly (used 3X Hornady) and even changed to a different brand of primers to no avail.

Currently, a primer is stuck part way in a pocket and I cannot remove the case from the shell holder. So I'm dead in the water. I have a call in to RCBS, but haven't hear back yet. I'd like to finish this batch so I can go shooting.
 
Point it away from your body, squeeze slowly but firmly, it will seat. OOPS, Wrong Model...
 
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When you have nothing to do-take your large & small primer rods apart--put blue lock-tight on threads & screw back together--there may be a hole in the pusher head at the top- a small nail in the hole will help tighten
I have had mine about 40 years( I think) it still works fine.
Replaced primer rods once
 
Loc-tite is a good idea, however, if you happen to try to push a primer into the pocket and there is no primer in the tool head it will force the end of the plug into the primer pocket and lodge it there. Talk about a mess trying to get it out.
 
I followed MEHavey's directions and the primer rod dropped out of the bottom; the primer plug, sleeve and spring assembly was still tight. My current predicament is I now have a case that is wedded to the shell holder by the partly inserted primer. BTW, using thread sealer is impractical since I load both large and small primers. I still don't know why this problem started in the first place, e.g., primers not going in straight.
 
I followed MEHavey's directions and the primer rod dropped out of the bottom; the primer plug, sleeve and spring assembly was still tight. My current predicament is I now have a case that is wedded to the shell holder by the partly inserted primer. BTW, using thread sealer is impractical since I load both large and small primers. I still don't know why this problem started in the first place, e.g., primers not going in straight.

I don't understand why using large and small primers would be a problem since there are separate small/large plug and rod assemblies. I keep a paperclip handy to tighten the plug as it comes loose all the time. I'm going to try the loc tite suggestion I don't know why I never thought of it.
 
BarboursvilleBill wrote:
My current predicament is I now have a case that is wedded to the shell holder by the partly inserted primer.

Stick the shell holder in your press and either - gently - use the priming arm on the press to push the primer the rest of the way home, or - gently still - use a decapping die or other sizer die to press the primer out. Primers are ignited by shock, not pressure, so if you go gently and slowly, you should be able to finish inserting the primer or push it out without any problems.
 
Pushing the primer in slowly works. Even if you compress the primer, side ways, it should not go off. (Federal Primers Excluded) But with the rod out, don't know. Maybe take it apart more?? Hope this helps. RCBS  09460 AUTOMATIC PRIMING TOOL.JPG
 
When all else fails, don safety glasses and ears, put the case/holder assembly in the bench vise, and fire the primer with the flame from a long lighter or propane torch down the cake mouth. Without powder it's basically a really loud fire cracker.

Once it's fired, deprime with a punch.

I would not try to deactivate the primer other than by firing it. I've never read or tried a method that's actually 100% reliable.
 
Just curious what brass and caliber ?
any possibility of a crimped primer pocket,
 
Thanks all; I'm back in action. I simply lubed the case and put it in the decapper die and it came out very easily using almost no pressure in the press. Still don't know why the priming tool started pushing primers off center. ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS: 1)no primer crimps--300BLK new cases from Hornady that I full-length resized (short-base) anyway. I've had problems before with crimps in this caliber and .223 Rem. LC cases; I have an RCBS swaging tool for those. 2) I forgot there's a separate rod/spring assy for both large and small--I think I'll reach for the light blue. Now that I feel more confident that primers won't ignite easily, I'll just start using more pressure in the insertion tool. I'll just keep leaning into it until the primer is visibly below the case head. Thanks again!
 
Now that I feel more confident that primers won't ignite easily, I'll just start using more pressure in the insertion tool.
Looks like your primer tube gives you no protection, if all the primers would explode.

Remember slow and easy.

Photo of a Dillon progressive. The aluminum tube has a steel shield around it. Shield sticking in ceiling.
full.jpg
 
Hmmmmmm.... well at least you got the case/shell-holder out of the assembly and into the main press for decapping. :thumbup:
(FWIW, pull the primer seater-plug all the way out and make sure there's nothing in the bottom of the threaded rod section that might keep it from bottoming out all the way to the unthreaded shank. Then reassemble/put a nail through the hole in the seating plug and really tighten that thing down by hand. You'll likely not need locTite at that point.

That said, now use the RCBS tool precisely because I can get some real seating leverage w/ it, and still feel it bottoming out on full seat. And since the primer tube is no where near the case at that point, it's totally safe
 
FWIW, I don't use the primer tube, ever since the get-go. Filling them scares the stuff outta me. I wash and dry my hands, then place primers on the top of the rod and seat them by pushing down on the handle. It's mounted to my bench in an RCBS plate, and works way better for me (I have arthritis) than any hand tool.
Thanks again, all!
 
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