Reloading .380ACP - First Time Question

frjeff

frjeff

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Apr 24, 2009
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Location
Mid-Michigan, USA
Have finally gotten all components and equipment setup for this.
Have the four die set from Lee. They are breech lock and I believe adjusted to proper positions.

I have checked numerous manuals and on line info for load data. Have settled on a starting load with the RMR 95gr FMJ bullet over 2.9gr of HP38. Light taper crimp via the Factory Crimp Die.

Have now built 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975. Max is 0.984. And my factory loads (Am. Eagle and Blazer 95gr FMJ) both measure exactly or slightly less than the dummies. My dummies all pass the case gauge and plunk test in my Bersa Thunder barrel. They likewise fit the magazine and cycle properly with manual slide racking.

So, am I ready to proceed with reloading live rounds and testing at my range? Or if not, what more to do?
 
Your set to get started. Just don't be surprised that they don't auto feed on starting charge. So don't load more that 1 mag to test. A low charge will fire the first but may not have enough energy to move the slide back far enough to pick up the next round. I would load up a full ladder test ( 5 each) to see what load you gun likes. I know on my sigs I need to be in the middle for them to auto feed. Once you find where you have full function then load up some larger batches.

Enjoy the trip...
 
If your shooting range is close, just load a few and give them a try. Maybe load a few more in mid-range and try them as well. I really don't think your Bersa is going to give you any problems at all.
 
I reccomend loading:
6 x 2.9gn HP238
6 x 3.0gn HP238
and
6 x 3.1gn HP238

Shoot the 2.9gn loads first and look for any signs of over pressure (there won't be) then move on to shooting the 3.0gn loads.
The manual I have in the house. "Lyman Reloading Handbook 46th edition" says that W231 (HP38 equivalent) has a max charge of 3.2gn with 95gn bullets??? If so I would also reccomend loading 6 x 3.2gn (max charge) to take with you on your first trip to the range. You will most likely find the max charge is a great all around load and load future rounds there.
My Lyman 46th edition (1982) which I have at the house (vs reloading room in the shop) is 40+ years old and doesn't even list HP38 or 95gn FMJ so go by the numbers in YOUR BOOK, not mine!

My first time reloading (40+ years ago) I decided on loading 10 rounds of 9mm at starting charge in my RCBS 4 x 4 progressive press. I was having so much fun I ended up loading 500-600 rounds at starting charge. I held on to those for 30+ years before I purchased a Ruger pc-9 that would actually somewhat cycle them. 600 rounds is too much to unload with a ballistic puller (plastic hammer).
 
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frjeff said:
Reloading .380ACP First Time Question ... RMR 95gr FMJ bullet over 2.9gr of HP38 ... 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975

So, am I ready to proceed with reloading live rounds and testing at my range? Or if not, what more to do?
Click to expand...
Yes. You could test neck tension by measuring bullet setback before/after feeding your dummy rounds from the magazine and releasing the slide.

gwpercle said:
You is now ready ... Choot Em' Jeff , Choot Em' !
Click to expand...
Yes. 😁

Hodgdon load data - https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center
  • 380Auto 95 gr Speer FMJ W231/HP-38 COL .970" Start 2.9 gr (802 fps) - Max 3.2 gr (884 fps)
  • 380Auto 95 gr ACME Coated RN W231/HP-38 COL .970" Start 3.0 gr (812 fps) - Max 3.8 gr (1,043 fps)
Speer load data - https://reloadingdata.speer.com/downloads/speer/reloading-pdfs/handgun/380_Automatic_95.pdf
  • 380Auto 95 gr Speer TMJ RN W231 COL .970" Start 3.6 gr (945 fps) - Max 4.0 gr (1027 fps)
FWIW, here's my .380Auto load development with 100 gr RNFP and W231/HP-38 (Note reduced charges from deeper seated bullet base from shorter OAL and range was 7 yards but have you tried shooting that small Taurus 738 TCP?) - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/380auto-x-treme-100-gr-rnfp-range-test.748320/

index.php
 
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A Federal 95 Gr JHP over 3.5 Grs W-231 at 9.75 to 9.80 OAL gave me 939 FPS at 91 degrees and 42% RH from a 2.5" barrelled Beretta Pico.

That's old Speer data, start lower. Hodgdon online max with a 95 Gr FMJ at .970 OAL is 3.2 these days for 884 FPS. No reason to beat up your gun either.
 
frjeff said:
Have finally gotten all components and equipment setup for this.
Have the four die set from Lee. They are breech lock and I believe adjusted to proper positions.

I have checked numerous manuals and on line info for load data. Have settled on a starting load with the RMR 95gr FMJ bullet over 2.9gr of HP38. Light taper crimp via the Factory Crimp Die.

Have now built 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975. Max is 0.984. And my factory loads (Am. Eagle and Blazer 95gr FMJ) both measure exactly or slightly less than the dummies. My dummies all pass the case gauge and plunk test in my Bersa Thunder barrel. They likewise fit the magazine and cycle properly with manual slide racking.

So, am I ready to proceed with reloading live rounds and testing at my range? Or if not, what more to do?
Click to expand...
I am very impressed with your thoroughness and attention to detail! There's one thing early on in the process of Designing an experiment that I force myself to do. That is to write down precicely the OBJECTIVE, what am I trying to do with this trial? Otherwise, how do I know if I accomplished my goal or not! Is it to match the Precision of factory ammo and at what distance shooting.? Is it self-defense? -- then maybe don't want maximum fps, but only 12" to 18" penetration. Is it to to cycle reliably every time 100%? I have a Walther's PPKs 380 and it is finicky with how snappy the powder is.
Just food for thought.
Have fun and be safe!
 
frjeff said:
Have finally gotten all components and equipment setup for this.
Have the four die set from Lee. They are breech lock and I believe adjusted to proper positions.

I have checked numerous manuals and on line info for load data. Have settled on a starting load with the RMR 95gr FMJ bullet over 2.9gr of HP38. Light taper crimp via the Factory Crimp Die.

Have now built 8 dummy rounds (no primer or powder) at OAL of 0.975. Max is 0.984. And my factory loads (Am. Eagle and Blazer 95gr FMJ) both measure exactly or slightly less than the dummies. My dummies all pass the case gauge and plunk test in my Bersa Thunder barrel. They likewise fit the magazine and cycle properly with manual slide racking.

So, am I ready to proceed with reloading live rounds and testing at my range? Or if not, what more to do?
Click to expand...
I’d say you’re ready and just remind you to maintain heightened awareness at the range. This’ll be different than any other range visit ever…your own ammo.

The sound of your ammo discharging may be different than factory ammo and almost certainly the felt recoil will be different. Just be prepared for it.

And it may sound odd but be prepared for the odor of your burnt powder. Don’t let it distract you, it’ll be different than factory.

You know your pistol and what’s normal. Watch & listen for abnormal.

Take some factory ammo too so you can test pistol operation and compare.

Look at your spent cases especially the primers just to see how they compare to factory. You may not know what to look for but you’ll be able to see any differences.

Sorry this is so long.

I also want to compliment you on your self-discipline and the deliberate way you’ve gone about this.
 
► I'll remind you to get a spiral classroom notebook or a bound lab notebook and start keeping your own reloading notes.

• Set aside the first 2 or 3 pages for notes on the gun and press settings.
• I believe the biggest differentiator is the bullet, so I reserve 1 page per bullet. That is 1 page for the Berry 95gr, another page for the Hornady 95gr, another page for the Hornady 88gr, and yet another for the XYZ brand 97gr. Right under the headings are the notes on what the Min and Max OAL for THAT bullet are in your barrel. Notes on the best OAL you've found with THAT bullet in your gun. Then notes on the die settings and other info specific to THAT bullet. Remember: you might go through 25 different bullets until you find a bullet that gives your suitable accuracy, price and availability.
• Under that section I keep 1 or 2 lines on each powder. Loads & Velocities. Group size. Impressions on recoil, smut left in the gun, smoke, and other info related to THAT load with THAT powder.

In this way you'll be able to effectively compare Bullet/Powder combination A with Bullet/Powder combination B... even though the actual data was collected years apart. Which is all to say... finding your best result is NOT going to be a 1 weekend affair, and owing to the span of time, there's no way you can remember all these numbers. Never trust your memory. Your safety is important. Commit this data to your notebook while it's still fresh in your mind !!

Hope this helps.
 
rfwobbly said:
► I'll remind you to get a spiral classroom notebook or a bound lab notebook and start keeping your own reloading notes.

• Set aside the first 2 or 3 pages for notes on the gun and press settings.
• I believe the biggest differentiator is the bullet, so I reserve 1 page per bullet. That is 1 page for the Berry 95gr, another page for the Hornady 95gr, another page for the Hornady 88gr, and yet another for the XYZ brand 97gr. Right under the headings are the notes on what the Min and Max OAL for THAT bullet are in your barrel. Notes on the best OAL you've found with THAT bullet in your gun. Then notes on the die settings and other info specific to THAT bullet. Remember: you might go through 25 different bullets until you find a bullet that gives your suitable accuracy, price and availability.
• Under that section I keep 1 or 2 lines on each powder. Loads & Velocities. Group size. Impressions on recoil, smut left in the gun, smoke, and other info related to THAT load with THAT powder.

In this way you'll be able to effectively compare Bullet/Powder combination A with Bullet/Powder combination B... even though the actual data was collected years apart. Which is all to say... finding your best result is NOT going to be a 1 weekend affair, and owing to the span of time, there's no way you can remember all these numbers. Never trust your memory. Your safety is important. Commit this data to your notebook while it's still fresh in your mind !!

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Some of this is beyond my ability or interest or need to maintain but for certain, if one does collect/maintain it from the start you’ll have it if you need it. But if one doesn’t collect it, recreating after the fact from memory is at best close to impossible.
 
rfwobbly said:
► I'll remind you to get a spiral classroom notebook or a bound lab notebook and start keeping your own reloading notes.

• Set aside the first 2 or 3 pages for notes on the gun and press settings.
• I believe the biggest differentiator is the bullet, so I reserve 1 page per bullet. That is 1 page for the Berry 95gr, another page for the Hornady 95gr, another page for the Hornady 88gr, and yet another for the XYZ brand 97gr. Right under the headings are the notes on what the Min and Max OAL for THAT bullet are in your barrel. Notes on the best OAL you've found with THAT bullet in your gun. Then notes on the die settings and other info specific to THAT bullet. Remember: you might go through 25 different bullets until you find a bullet that gives your suitable accuracy, price and availability.
• Under that section I keep 1 or 2 lines on each powder. Loads & Velocities. Group size. Impressions on recoil, smut left in the gun, smoke, and other info related to THAT load with THAT powder.

In this way you'll be able to effectively compare Bullet/Powder combination A with Bullet/Powder combination B... even though the actual data was collected years apart. Which is all to say... finding your best result is NOT going to be a 1 weekend affair, and owing to the span of time, there's no way you can remember all these numbers. Never trust your memory. Your safety is important. Commit this data to your notebook while it's still fresh in your mind !!

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Good info! Thanks.
 
My biased opinion is to put the FCD in a drawer and for get it. Get a plain old deflaring die (aka "taper crimp die"). Do not "crimp", just deflare for a good plunk test. Plunk test several OAL settings to determine what is best for your gun. Use data from your published manuals and powder/bullet manufacturer's web pages only. Read "forum data" for entertainment only. A dozen or so "test loads" should show you if the load functions in your gun, and begin with manuals' starting loads, working up in needed/wanted.

There, my experiences and opinions developed since my first reload in 1970. I have good reasons for each opinion expressed (and I'm sure many disagree) and I have had one squib and zero kabooms, reloading for 16 calibers,

Go slow, Double check everything, Most important, have fun!
 
mdi said:
frjeff said:
RMR 95gr FMJ
Click to expand...
My biased opinion is to put the FCD in a drawer and for get it. Get a plain old deflaring die (aka "taper crimp die")
Click to expand...
While I do not use FCD for applying taper crimp to straight walled semi-auto calibers (They stay in the drawer), use of FCD and jacketed bullet diameters around .355" is fine to use as taper crimp/finishing die as there should be no concern of post-sizing (.357"+ diameter bullets different story).

frjeff said:
what more to do?
Click to expand...
One quick check for OP to see if FCD is post sizing is to mark the case neck where bullet base is seated to (As not all case wall thickness is consistent around the case neck) and measure the diameter of case neck before and after FCD. If there is no reduction of case neck, then no worry of post sizing.
 
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Dudedog said:
Seems like your on the right track.
I would just mention to watch your neck tension, .380 brash seems to vary in thickness so if you are using mixed brass be careful and check the tension on all flavors.
Click to expand...
Excellent advise if you're shooting mixed .380 cases like I am.
 
mdi said:
My biased opinion is to put the FCD in a drawer and for get it. Get a plain old deflaring die (aka "taper crimp die"). Do not "crimp", just deflare for a good plunk test. Plunk test several OAL settings to determine what is best for your gun. Use data from your published manuals and powder/bullet manufacturer's web pages only. Read "forum data" for entertainment only. A dozen or so "test loads" should show you if the load functions in your gun, and begin with manuals' starting loads, working up in needed/wanted.

There, my experiences and opinions developed since my first reload in 1970. I have good reasons for each opinion expressed (and I'm sure many disagree) and I have had one squib and zero kabooms, reloading for 16 calibers,

Go slow, Double check everything, Most important, have fun!
Click to expand...
Thanks,
If I understand correctly, my seating die can also be set to do a light or heavy taper crimp.
If I put the FCD in the drawer, would that work the same as your suggested “old deflaring - taper crimp die?
 
frjeff said:
If I understand correctly, my seating die can also be set to do a light or heavy taper crimp.
Click to expand...
Yes, Lee combination seat and crimp die can apply taper crimp while seating the bullet (How I load most of my straight walled semi-auto pistol calibers, especially with jacketed and plated bullets).

If you are just removing the flare back flat on the bullet, as last bit of taper crimp (or deflaring) is applied while the bullet is seated, there is so minute movement straight down along flat case mouth that good taper crimp can be applied (Problem arises if reloaders are trying to apply too much taper crimp while seating the bullet as now case mouth is digging into the bullet while bullet is seated leading to shaving of bullet).

Below is RMR 9mm 124 gr FMJ sized .3555" with .378" taper crimp loaded to 1.130" using Lee dies. (.3555" + .011" + .011" = .3775" rounded up to .378") - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-10#post-11419509

index.php


Greater care is needed when seating and taper crimping lead/coated lead bullets but it can be done. Below is .452" sized 45ACP lead bullets (Hand cast and MBC Bullseye #1 SWC) seated with thumbnail's worth of shoulders above case mouth and .473" taper crimp (.452" + .011" + .011" = .473") without shaving of bullet. Key for not shaving lead bullets when seating/taper crimping in one step is consistent resized case length so same amount of taper crimp is applied to not shave lead bullet - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-10#post-11386393

index.php
 
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Dudedog said:
Seems like your on the right track.
I would just mention to watch your neck tension, .380 brass seems to vary in thickness so if you are using mixed brass be careful and check the tension on all flavors.
Click to expand...
Just Googled “brass neck tension” and am more confused than before I read it.
The measuring of the case mouth before and after the FCD to see if a reduction, is that the quick tell?
And, if it is crimped, wouldn’t it automatically be somewhat smaller?
So, correct me here, but if I understand we want to simply remove the flair, and no more?
Thanks with your patience with me.
 
LiveLife said:
Yes, Lee combination seat and crimp die can apply taper crimp while seating the bullet (How I load most of my straight walled semi-auto pistol calibers, especially with jacketed and plated bullets).

If you are just removing the flare back flat on the bullet, as last bit of taper crimp (or deflaring) is applied while the bullet is seated, there is so minute movement straight down along flat case mouth that good taper crimp can be applied (Problem arises if reloaders are trying to apply too much taper crimp while seating the bullet as now case mouth is digging into the bullet while bullet is seated leading to shaving of bullet).

Below is RMR 9mm 124 gr FMJ sized .3555" with .378" taper crimp loaded to 1.130" using Lee dies. (.3555" + .011" + .011" = .3775" rounded up to .378") - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-and-discussions.778197/page-10#post-11419509

index.php
Click to expand...
Great explanation. I think I’ve got it. My earlier reply can now be ignored.
I will do the light “crimp” with the seating die.
I am only reloading 380 and it is straight walled.
 
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