Removing stuck muzzle device - Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle

An A/O rosebud is definitely overkill for this job. If you need to use A/O, any cutting tip from 00 up would be enough, but preferably a welding tip.
I was pointing out the very wide range of heat available with an A/O torch. Of course you wouldn't need any size of rosebud for this job.

Not being familar with the size of what he wants to remove I can only guess what sized welding tip to use. I chose welding tip because they concentrate the flame more than a cutting tip although I have removed many a stuck item with a cutting tip and it does give you the option of just cutting it off if heat doesn't get the job done.
 
Just dropped by to put another vote in for Kroil... I work in maintenance and remember the first time I used it. I swear I could hear angels singing. Yeah, seriously, it's THAT good.

I would try it without heat first. Set the rifle muzzle down and apply a good bead of it between the barrel and the device. Let it sit, maybe an hour. Some controlled hammer taps (steel on steel for the SHOCK) to start the magic and give it a try.

If no go...

First add more time-overnight if possible. Then move to adding heat.

But I'd be real surpised if the Kroil Magic doesn't work by itself.

Lastly, at $22 a can, it's still a steal. You can toss every other "blaster" and "buster" in the trash. Really cleans up the benchtop. WD40, Kroil, and some good, clean, light oil is all you need.

Oh, required fine print for the naysayers: "YMMV"

lol
 
Kroil is great. If they didn't use thread locker it may work without heat. Surely they didn't, but If they did use thread locker, it probably will require heat.🙂
 
Regarding the use of Kroil, should I submerge the entire muzzle device, or just saturate the area between the barrel shoulder and muzzle device? It’s $22 for 8oz….

IMO, the trouble is that the crush washer (if used) can act as a seal. Almost like crush washers for attaching a hydraulic brake banjo to a disc brake caliper.

So, the best path to reach the threads for penetrating oil may be inside the flash hider from the muzzle end.
 
Regarding the use of Kroil, should I submerge the entire muzzle device, or just saturate the area between the barrel shoulder and muzzle device? It’s $22 for 8oz….
There's no need to submerge the device. If it's even remotely possible to penetrate the threads, Kroil will find its way in. Put the barrel vertically in a padded vice, apply Kroil to the top and come back in the morning.
 
An A/O rosebud is definitely overkill for this job. If you need to use A/O, any cutting tip from 00 up would be enough, but preferably a welding tip.

I was simply pointing out the very wide range of heating capabilities with an A/O torch. Of course you would not need any size rosebud for the OP's job. A small welding tip should suffice. A cutting tip does give you the option of just cutting it off if heat doesn't make it give up and come off without changing tips.
 
I was simply pointing out the very wide range of heating capabilities with an A/O torch. Of course you would not need any size rosebud for the OP's job. A small welding tip should suffice. A cutting tip does give you the option of just cutting it off if heat doesn't make it give up and come off without changing tips.
I definitely would not cut it off with a torch. But you can just use the pre-heat flame of cutting tip and get it hot pretty quickly.🙂
 
It is not difficult to do. With my advanced essential tremors I certainly wouldn't even think about trying it now but before the tremors started it would have been a quick and easy job.
Yes, I've washed many bearing races off of shafts and out of hubs without damaging them, but doing that to a heat treated gun barrel is not advisable.🙂
 
I find holding the parts is often the issue barrel vices and wrenches are nice to have.

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A few times, I have made my own using split setcollars with handles welded to them after I machine the ID, if needed.

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Just dropped by to put another vote in for Kroil... I work in maintenance and remember the first time I used it. I swear I could hear angels singing. Yeah, seriously, it's THAT good.
It is good stuff for sure.

It was introduced to me by an old engine builder I used to work for. He called it "crows oil" and swore by it.

Last weekend I stopped at a relatives house to pick up something, and happened to find my grandpa's 20" Channel-Locks outside on a table. Having obviously been there for months if not years in the rain, etc. Grandpa passed away in 2014, and they got some of his tools. I was a little ticked off to say the least.

The pliers were rusted up tight and wouldn't budge. I took them home, squirted kroil over them, and let them sit over night. The next day they had freed up. A few minutes with a wire brush and a little more kroil and they work great.
 
One more Kroil story: I once wanted to remove the scope mount plug screws on a 50+ year old Marlin 336. The screws hadn't been touched since the rifle was new, and were tiny and flush. I applied as much torque as I dared with the appropriate screwdriver, but they wouldn't budge. I put a drop of Kroil on each and came back the next morning. I put the screwdriver on the first screw and gave a gentle turn, just to make sure the screw was seated in the slot properly before I applied any real torque. To my amazement, just that gentle turn caused the screw to spin up part way out of the hole.

The stuff is magic.
 
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