Removing the rebound slide, what else to take out first?

[mattz357]

After I've removed the sideplate and taken out the mainspring, what else do I have to remove before it's safe for me to remove the rebound slide? What is the best strategy for removing it without punching holes in my fingers with a screwdriver? Thanks in advance!

 

[SnWnMe]

I just use a screwdriver. Miculek does!

Just ease it out slow and mind the spring.

Just remember that taking it out is ALOT easier than putting it back in

 

[QuarterBoreGunner]

get one of these and it will make getting it back in, much MUCH easier.

 

[medmo]

Yes, get one of those. The angle is correct so it aligns perfectly. It captures the spring so you won't have to worry about finding it after it pops around a screwdriver tip. Also, you have to take the hammer out first. After the sideplate and mainspring are removed pull the trigger to the rear. While holding the trigger to the rear the hammer should wiggle right off the pin and out of the frame.

 

[mattz357]

I put in a Wilson 14# trigger return spring and a reduced power mainspring, but didn't notice all that much difference even after a couple hundred "rounds" of dry firing, what is the stock weight for the trigger return spring? Should I try the 12# or 13#, or will they reduce reliability? I would try them all, but I don't want to mess around with it too much, each time I have to take the screws in or out could be the time I slip.

 

[Standing Wolf]

Should I try the 12# or 13#, or will they reduce reliability?

Maybe; maybe not.

Sorry, but that's the only intelligent answer. No two Smith & Wesson revolvers behave exactly the same way with reduced power rebound slide springs. Some work just fine. Some don't.

If you try a reduced power main spring, be sure to put a few hundred rounds through the gun before you carry it: there's a good chance it will produce light strikes.

 

[mattz357]

Wolf, thanks for the warning, but I live in IL. We can't even carry unloaded guns here.