Revolver Tying Up has Me Puzzled

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I hadn't considered the bullet jump because it would have to move pretty far. These were .38Spl cases in a .357 cylinder...but you never know
if the bullet diameter of those practice rounds is more than the diameter of the chamber throats, the bullet doesn't have to travel far to wedge in the throat and back the case out of the cylinder. i'd check the diameter of those bullets against the diameter of the cylinder throats.

i'd also check the diameter of the match bullets. a one thou difference could make all the difference here.

luck,

murf
 
On the first firing, new brass will expand near the web area. But not fully. One side more then the other. Think oval.
If the case needs to be pushed back into the chamber, as the cylinder rotates, this may cause drag.
This is interesting as I've never heard of this. It bears further investigation with once fired brass
 
if the bullet diameter of those practice rounds is more than the diameter of the chamber throats, the bullet doesn't have to travel far to wedge in the throat and back the case out of the cylinder.
Another factor I hadn't considered. My reloads don't move because I roll crimp them...as an anti-squib lockup measure
 
A revolver intermittently locking up is almost always one of 3 things:

1) Debris under the extractor
2) Unseated primers
3) Crimp jump and bullet impinging upon barrel tenon

#1 is super simple to fix and self explanatory

#2 is caused by low power ammo, equally simple to fix and diagnose

#3 is ridiculously obvious, and in an ICORE revolver, dollars to doughnuts, this ain’t it.
Those three things were my initial analysis also.

I immediately dismissed the third as the cylinder had revolved beyond that point when the stoppage occurred and he was able to eject the cases as he continued through the CoF
 
I want too thank the members for sharing their expertise and experiences. It has given me additional avenues to pursue to address his issue
 
I have no idea what was up with the yoke. I HATE cylinder snapping, so that wasn’t a cause. The extractor was also replaced, so I’ll guess somewhere along the line something got tweaked and fell out of alignment.

I shoot my guns but I don’t abuse them, so I’m seriously stumped as to what may have happened.

Hopefully the issue plaguing the 686 you mention is as easily solved.

Stay safe!
 
Thanks...we shall see.

Revolvers shot in competition are run pretty hard. The crane takes some stress during every reload as we open and close them fairly quickly...we're using two hands, but we're not easing them closed either. The largest stress/wear is on the bolt notches. They slam into the bolt for each shot and have a tendency to peen
 
Many good suggestions so far... one I didn’t see is to check the hammer nose bushing. It has happened to me that the firing pin wears the hole pushing material foreword creating a point that will drag on the case head ... this can produce the effects you’re seeing especially when using low power loads
 
I had a Model 10 that partially seized up like that one time. I ended up finding a little chip or shard of metal floating around between the hammer and sear. No idea where it came from, but once removed, it was back to normal.
 
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