Ruger Blackhawk Trigger Return Issue Help?

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wankerjake

wankerjake

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Ok guys I just picked up a lightly used Ruger Blackhawk and am having a minor issue with the trigger return mechanism. After firing the trigger doesn’t return until I lightly lift the hammer or mess with the loading gate. Like maybe the hammer is pinching the transfer bar a bit and as soon as any tension is lifted it releases? What do you think?

Video:
https://i.imgur.com/LYqCdl9.mp4


Sorry I’m a little out of breath, was lifting and filmed in between sets
 
Perhaps the previous owner replaced the trigger return spring, or lifted off one of its legs, which some apparently do. I don't think the hammer is pinching anything, but maybe that's been modified, also.
 
It's possible the trigger return spring has been replaced or modified etc. It's possible the hammer is not original and is causing a pinch to the transfer bar, or that it's doing the same with an original stock hammer.

I have had this happen once before, after installing an aftermarket hammer to a SBH. It happened to be a Power Customs hammer. It bound the transfer bar up with a lighter trigger return spring. When the original trigger return spring was reinstalled, it stopped (or rather was overcome by the extra spring strength). But apparently there was still too much force on the transfer bar because it final broke. I replaced the hammer with a Ruger factory hammer and installed a new transfer bar. No issues.

I can't really tell from your video, but despite appearing to be a Bisley hammer, it does not look like a stock Ruger Bisley hammer. Pics might help.
 
As beag-nut points out, removing one leg of the return spring from its post is a commonly used trick with these guns. The first thing I would do is remove the grips and see if that has been done. If so, merely lifting it back onto the post might solve your troubles.
 
No he did not. However I believe him

Also to be clear the loading gate works fine as soon as the trigger returns fully
 
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if the internals are already clean, i would send it to ruger.

luck,

murf
 
wankerjake said:
Also to be clear the loading gate works fine as soon as the trigger returns fully
Click to expand...

So, do you want to take it apart yourself? Or would you have someone else do it? Because those are your only two options, if you want it to work correctly.
 
Hammer and hammer spring pics, look fine to me

Rf5ayRb.jpg

VMLRqy2.jpg

WrongHanded said:
So, do you want to take it apart yourself? Or would you have someone else do it? Because those are your only two options, if you want it to work correctly.
Click to expand...
Sorry what was the diagnosis? Did I miss that?
 
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wankerjake said:
Sorry what was the diagnosis? Did I miss that?
Click to expand...

You really expect a diagnosis based on a video and description of the issue? Okay. The transfer bar is being pinched because there's not enough room between the hammer and frame for the transfer bar to move down after the trigger is pulled and the hammer drops on it.

There are only three reasons I can see that would make this happen:

1. The recess in the hammer is not deep enough for the transfer bar.

2. The transfer bar is out of spec.

3. The firing pin in not moving far enough forward to allow for the transfer bar under the hammer.

IMG_20210216_133721009.jpg

The only other information I can give you is this picture. This is a stock Bisley Hammer from Ruger. It was bought separately rather than in a gun. Notice the mottled finish rather than machine marks or abrasion lines. I don't know if all Bisley hammers are finished in this way, but yours clearly is not. Which makes me wonder why.

I think someone's had that hammer out and has attempted some kind of work on it. I accept that I may be wrong.
 
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WrongHanded said:
You really expect a diagnosis based on a video and description of the issue? Okay. The transfer bar is being pinched because there's not enough room between the hammer and frame for the transfer bar to move down after the trigger is pulled and the hammer drops on it.

There are only three reasons I can see that would make this happen:

1. The recess in the hammer is not deep enough for the transfer bar.

2. The transfer bar is out of spec.

3. The firing pin in not moving far enough forward to allow for the transfer bar under the hammer.
Click to expand...
Lol I’m retarded for asking and hoping for an answer but you’ve had it basically figured out but were just sandbagging right? Why are you upset?

I agree after more searching I think there is transfer bar impingement for some reason
 
wankerjake said:
Lol I’m retarded for asking and hoping for an answer but you’ve had it basically figured out but were just sandbagging right? Why are you upset?

I agree after more searching I think there is transfer bar impingement for some reason
Click to expand...

I guess we'll just chalk this one up to a misunderstanding. I thought that as you were asking about the impingement issue in the OP, you already believed it to be the problem. My mistake. :D

Anyhow, that's exactly what's going on. But I can't tell you why for certain.

If the firing pin is moving freely, you can likely discount that issue. Then it comes down to the other two possibilities, neither of which I think I can eliminate from here. Though if you were to take it apart further (Ruger has a video) you may be able to determine it for yourself.
 
Yeah was just watching the video. I can probably do that. I’ve read in other forums this can be a common issue and sanding and polishing the hammer and/or transfer bar can fix it...

Kind of in a tricky spot as I just bought this. The issue was not disclosed and the seller seems to think it’s not really a problem. And technically it isn’t, it will fire fine I have no doubt. But it wasn’t disclosed. To make a long story short I do believe him when he says he didn’t monkey with it. I could be wrong. Sending back to Ruger for them to check out may be the best option but was hoping someone might say hey I know what’s going on and here are some simple fixes or something is definitely broken and you should send to Ruger

It’s looking more like sending to Ruger may be what I should do. I have some fine grit sanding pads I could try and polish the hammer face a bit but if I screw with it very much it becomes my problem whether that works or not
 
wankerjake said:
It’s looking more like sending to Ruger may be what I should do. I have some fine grit sanding pads I could try and polish the hammer face a bit but if I screw with it very much it becomes my problem whether that works or not
Click to expand...

Before you take it apart, you may take (as best you can) a look at the transfer bar surfaces and the recess of the hammer. If anything looks to be protruding from either side of the transfer bar, or the hammer recess (such as along the line made by injection moulding), that could be the issue.

Sending it back to Ruger is the safe option as they will make it right. I have made modifications to both my BH and SBH, which is part of why I have experience with this issue. Tinkering can be fun, but sometimes it's better to just let a pro deal with it.
 
I bought a used 6.5” .41 off GB several weeks ago. It fired once then had a series of light primer strikes and would not fire after that first shot.

I think the previous owner monkeyed with the action, so when he bubbaed it up and it quit working right he put it up for auction rather than pay to have the handiwork undone.

I called Ruger, paid $30 for a shipping label, wrote a note with a description of the issue, packed it up and sent it in.

I got it back in about two weeks with a new transfer bar and action springs. It now works perfectly.

E63C9B06-F3E8-4023-88A1-C94D50F4577E.jpeg

If I have a firing mechanism on a gun that requires me to somehow fiddle with the trigger (or other parts) in order for it to function properly, THAT is a serious issue that gets fixed before I go shooting it again. If the prior owner doesn’t think so, my opinion of his gun-safety knowledge and common sense is greatly diminished... and I’ll probably think he was trying a “poor mans trigger job” or started cutting coils, etc. and is too embarrassed to admit it was botched.

https://gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm

My humble advice is with the others; send it back to New Hampshire and get it fixed right.

Stay safe.
 
Also he confirmed the pistol appeared to be stock without modifications, just a bad hammer spring. The seller has agreed to reimburse me
 
wankerjake said:
I took it to Gary Reeder in Flagstaff and he said it was a bad hammer spring, replaced it for $40, just got home with it. All set I appreciate the responses
Click to expand...

That's pretty surprising to me. I wouldn't have though a hammer spring could cause such a malfunction. Oh well, glad you got it fixed.
 
Glad you figured it out, if anyone can identify and turn that issue around for you it’s him. :thumbup:

I would love to send Gary Reeder a 6” GP 100 .357 and have him cut down the barrel to 4.5”, turn down the under lug and chamber it into a .41 Special 6-shot.... maybe someday I’ll do that as a retirement gift to myself.;)

Let us know how it shoots for you when you get a chance. :)

Stay safe.
 
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