Ruger GP 100

[Porter_Rockwell]

Hello again,

I can't let these Smith owners get away with a 686 club without us GP100 users having something as well! Feel free to answer some questions:

1) What do you own: I own a stainless GP100 in 4 inch with adj sights.

2) What grips do you use? I think the Hogue Grips are absolutely the best on the market for this gun. They completely cover the backstrap, whereas, the hogue grips for a 686 do not (Sorry for the jab Smitty owners!) It makes a difference with full power loads.

3) What loads do you use? I use a variety for plinking, with winchester 110, 125 being the most common. I also shoot Blazer .357 and Winchester 130 grain .38.

For woods carry I am ether carring Winchester 180 Partition Gold or corbon 200 HC.

4) Any modifications? I have none other than the Hogue grips.

5) What would you like Ruger to do differently to a GP100? Nothing really, I am so pleased with mine. However, i would love to see another run of the Target Grey to match my SP101 2 incher. Maybe even an 8 inch version for hunting. I plan on the purchase of a 6 inch for hunting, but the 8 would be even better! The tigger seems to consistely get better with the new Ruger right out of the box.

6) Holster(s): I carry mine in a cheap but effective Uncle Mikes OWB (As if anything will really fit IWB!)

7) Speed Loader(s): HKS and Bianchi.

God Bless and have fun.

Porter

 

[fjlee]

>>>>1) What do you own: I own a stainless GP100 in 4 inch with adj sights.

I don't have mine yet. But soon!!! A 4" SS in .357 (KGP-141)

>>>>2) What grips do you use?

I'm gonna start with the Hogue TAMERS.

>>>>3) What loads do you use?

I reload, so play/plink will probably be a variety.....as I try to close in on a load/bullet that groups well, with moderate recoil. Velocity not too important to me for plinking/playing. Once I find an accurate plinking load, I'll also use that load for small game hunting. For HD/SD......I'll use one of the 125 grain JHP, hopefully at around 1400-1450 fps.

>>>>4) Any modifications?

I've been gathering info and advice from many areas......to enable myself to do an "action smoothing" job. Once that's done, and the gun has been dry and live fired a bunch, I'm gonna do careful Wolff trigger springs installation.
I've given a lot of thought to this "spring job".....since this Ruger will also be a HD/SD gun. So I think my criteria on the Wolff springs is that I must get ignition 100 times, from 100 attempts, using CCI primers, in temperature that's below 35 degrees F. If the Wolff spring's can't deliver that, then the original Ruger springs will be given the same test. If the Ruger springs can't pass the test, I'm not sure what I'm gonna do at that point!! Heh, heh.......have not thought that far ahead.

I'll also be experimenting with different colored paint on the front sight, if I deem the original black is lacking.

Any sharp edges on trigger will be "stoned" off.

Chambers will be polished...possibly lapped. Possibly I'll do the same to the forcing cone. I'll check the bore where the barrel screws into frame. If there is a constriction there, I'll manually lap it, at that spot. NOT fire-lap!!!

>>>>5) What would you like Ruger to do differently to a GP100?

Well, I've never owned or even shot a GP100....but right now I'm daydreaming that my perfect GP100 .357 would have a 3" barrel, and adjustable sights.

FJ Lee

 

[fiVe]

I would like to welcome all GP 100 owners to the "club" format. I'm not a member here (not yet, at least), but I wish this thread great success.

Kind regards,
fiVe
-- Founder of the 642 Club
-- Member of the 336 Club

 

[g5reality]

Congratulations.

I think Club threads are great. easy way to compare notes, get advice and see what others think of guns you either have or might think of getting.

Special thanks to fiVe for starting the concept.

Long Live the Ruger GP 100 Club.


-- Member of the 642 Club
-- Founder of the 686 Club
-- Founder of the M1A Club

 

[SNEAKS]

I have a GP100 6'' blued with rubber hogue grips and plan on getting it drilled and tapped for a scope soon. It was my first handgun and I love it.

 

[zappadragon]

I guess I will start the pictures. Here is my GP 100

 

[vanilla_gorilla]

I need a six inch.

My normal loads seem to involve lots of 2400 under a 158 grain jacketed bullet for now.

 

[Waywatcher]

1) What do you own?
I own a stainless GP100 in 4 inch with adjustable sights.

2) What grips do you use?
Factory grips, nothing changed here.

3) What loads do you use?
a. For defense purposes Federal 125 grain JHP.
b. For general-purpose or target-shooting 158 grain LSWC.
c. For woods-carry 140 grain Barnes XPB.

4) Any modifications?
a. I rounded the trigger edges myself with a dremel followed by about an hour of hand-filing. Much more user-friendly.
b. Meprolight adjustable night sights, which are very nice.
c. Wolff springs, one step down from factory and I have never experienced a single failure. If I ever do, factory springs will go back in but I'm not holding my breath.

5) What would you like Ruger to do differently to a GP100?
Offer a factory bead-blasted finish and round the trigger edges more, like what you see on a Ruger Alaskan.

6) Holster?
Right now a cheap-ish Bianchi Accumold that works, but not great.

7) Speed Loader?
Bianchi Speed Strips here, I dont care much for the HKS, but if I were to use this for IDPA I would get some Safariland Comp II's.

 

[Porter_Rockwell]

Nice job...Any Hi-Viz for a Gp100?

Thanks gang,

I was wondering if anyone knew of a hi-viz type option for a GP100.
I may have overlooked it on their site, but I S&W, but no Ruger.

Second, if you have installed a Hi-viz or something like unto it, what has POA/POI issues been like for you?

Keep those cards and letters coming.

God Bless,

Porter.

 

[Waywatcher]

Before the Meprolight's, I had Williams Firesights on mine. (Fiber optic, 3 dot) They, like the stock sights, are considerably taller than the Meprolights. I like the low profile of the Meprolights.

As far as POA/POI they're both adjustable, so it can be changed.

My personal sight adjustment has the 158 LSWC shooting to the top on the front sight, and the 125 JHP "drilling the dot" of the front night sight. (both zeroed at 25 yards) I've never been a fan of 6 o'clock type holds with sights.

So for instance, if I'm shooting the 158's at a clay pigeon at 25 yards, half of the pigeon will be above my sights, and half obscured. If I'm using the 125's I end up centering the dot of the front sight in the middle of the pigeon.

 

[andy29075]

Hello,
I have a Millett flourescent orange front site that drops in and is MUCH easier to see than the stock front sight. I had no issues with POI, but I did have to do a little file-work to get the site to seat perfectly...

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=543904

Here's a fiber-optic sight set:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=325201

 

[MrDig]

1) What do you own: 6 inch Bbl in Blue

2) What grips do you use? Factory Standard


3) What loads do you use? 158gr Seller & Belloit FMJ for target use, Still undecided about HD or Hunting use.

4) Any modifications? HiVis front Ramp sight.


5) What would you like Ruger to do differently to a GP100? add a High Visibility Front Sight.


6) Holster(s): None yet


7) Speed Loader(s): Two, HKS 586A

 

[ChuckB]

I have a 4" stainless, and I really like it. I replaced the stock hammer spring with a 10# Wolff, and it's still a 100% gun. That's my only change (does painting the front sight with bright fabric paint count?).

"Bianchi Speed Strips here, I dont care much for the HKS, but if I were to use this for IDPA I would get some Safariland Comp II's."

I tried the Comp II's for competition. They didn't work- the cartridge case edges would hang up on the charge holes. No problem with defense ammo, because the case edges don't protrude. An HKS works fine.

Chuck

 

[Handyman]

1. 4" blued
2. factory grips - tried the hogue grips , didn't like them
3. I've been trying different loads but I mostly use
the CCI blazers and Lellier & Ballot 158 gr. for the range and Remington 125 gr. jhp for defence
4. The only modification I made was to change the front sight . I got a red one from the Ruger catalog
5. I can't think of anything that I would want Ruger to do different
6. I have a Bianchi 3 slot holster . Not a bad holster but I might get a Galco or maybe a uncle mike
7. HKS speed loader and Bianchi speed strips

 

[461]

My GP-100 is the 4" Target Grey model and it's a favorite gun that has earned permanent status in my collection. The only modification I've done is switch to the smaller "Fixed Sight" grip with some fancy (Zebrawood) inserts.

The action came from the box very smooth and light and after a few thousand dry fires and about 5000 rounds fired it's only gotten smoother. My load of choice is 158gr hardcast with middle of the road doses of 2400 as the gun seems to group them pretty well at 25yds. Factory sights are fine to my eye so I haven't changed them although night sights of some variety may be in the future.

I carry it in a Bianchi "Black Widow" belt slide which is also what I use for my SP-101's.

I have plans of a blued 6" in the future.

 

[KFISHCAT]

Great gun tuff as nails. The trigger on mine is great right out of box no problems guess I got a good one. Glad to see some much needed Gp100 love.

 

[Porter_Rockwell]

Bear Loads and Lipseys?

461---Did you get the Taget grey special ordered through Lipseys/Davidsons?
I have only seen 1 GP 100 in TG ever. The one I saw was used and I had to make the choice btween the GP or the SP in TG. I wanted the SP more at the time and knew it would get more CCW use. I want to find the GP in TG again, but it has been at least a year since I have seen one.

I have a Red Label in TG, the Sp and the Mini (They don't claim it as TG, but it looks basically the same) I want to get the GP to match. Just my Obsessive-Compulsive nature coming out. (I'm pretty sure the diagnosis is correct since I am a Psychotherapist!)

Anyone ever tested any bear loads for the GP?

I carry the 200 grain Corbons in mine wihile in the woods. I am interested if anyone has any comaprative results on the following:

1) Federal 180 Cast Core
2) Buffalo Bore 180 CC
3) Speer 170 SP

Any others you might suggest? The Core bons I feel most at home with, but they can be a little unwieldy in rapid fire even in the GP100.

God Bless and let's keep this tread rolling!

Porter.

 

[Ichiro]

4" Blue, stock except for a Wolf 9# main spring.
Wish it had a better front sight.

I enjoy shooting everything through it, but these days I use only my .38 reloads. I just started reloading and decided the GP-100 was the best gun in case I had a double-charge.

With the exception of a couple rounds, I put a 50-round box, double-action, through one ragged hole at 21 feet. Time to push the target back a bit further, I think.

 

[lawson]

1) What do you own: Stainless GP100, 4", adjustable sight.

2) What grips do you use? Checkered Rosewood Combat Grips from Eagle

3) What loads do you use? for plinking, i use bulk .38 reloads. For home defense, I use Gold Dots, and for backwoods carry I use Corbon 200grn HC.

4) Any modifications? Just the grips.

5) What would you like Ruger to do differently to a GP100? I would like a high visibility colored front sight, and a rounded trigger.

6) Holster(s): I've tried quite a few, and my favorite is the Galco Fletch. It distributes the weight well, and after an 8 hour shift wearing this gun that can mean quite a lot.

7) Speed Loader(s): I have two HKS speedloaders, but I don't really use them. I can reload faster with loose cartridges, so I carry my spares in a Simply Rugged ammo pouch.

now, for a picture and some history:



The GP100 was my first handgun purchased as an adult. I was fresh out of the service and looking to take up shooting again, and to have something for home defense. My dad suggested looking for a used Model 10, since there's a store a couple hours away that often gets big lots of them from law enforcement and security company trade-ins. I had already planned on getting a double action revolver in either .38 or .357, but I wasn't exactly sure on make or model.

I happened to stop by a local store, and this big shiny revolver caught my eye. It felt great in my hand, nice and heavy. I bought it then and there without haggling price. It's been true love ever since.

 

[SecondAmend]

Just purchased mine today. Nice piece.
I will be upgrading the to a set of Wolf trigger/springs and also grips sometime next week.

 

[ChuckB]

Nice gun, and nice pic, SecondAmend. Enjoy.

Chuck

 

[461]

Porter- The Target Grey model came through Lipsey's a sa special run. I was going to special order it but when I went into the gun shop to ask about ordering it the guy said "we got two in yesterday, take your pick". I looked them both over and took the one I felt was better and have wished several times since that I had the cash to buy both and that I had bought the SP-101version when it came out.

I'd add a photo but can't figure it out.

 

[revolverman357]

I have a 6" GP100, factory grips, Millet orange front sight, and Wolf springs. I shoot 158gr Cast SWC over 14.5gr 2400.

 

[areandare]

Mine

Mine is a 5" ss with Hogue grips and I shoot 357's loaded with 158 gr. swc. This is my favorite range gun. Comfortable, accurate and reliable.

 

[GregAllCalibers]

Most beautiful gun I every owned

I love this gun. It's a proven performer. I have 2,100 rounds through her, and yes, I keep her in this condition. That's how much I respect this piece

MY MODIFICATIONS (note: when using a Dremel on the internals, do NOT take off any metal! Only use a polishing wheel!)
================
- metal under hammer was uneven (slanted). Used Dremel tool sanding wheel and hard metal polisher to even it out.

- metal on top of hammer was uneven (slanted). Used Dremel tool sanding wheel and hard metal polisher to even it out.

- 'trigger job' polished trigger sear, hammer hook, and top & sides of main-spring strut (to reduce spring stacking) to a sheen, now very smooth single action, double action also very smooth. Cannot feel any trigger play in single action before trigger falls. Also smoothed/polished transfer bar, cylinder latch, paw, trigger plunger, to a highly polished sheen. Used Dremel tool, sandpaper, and ScotchBrite.

- smoothed/polished trigger assy latch plunger and frame contact for easier trigger assy removal. Used Dremel tool, sandpaper, and ScotchBrite.

- smoothed/polished entire frame, removed all machining marks and polished to mirror finish where appropriate.

- lightly sanded and polished sides of hammer and frame where it rubs (especially right side)

- replaced front black sight with factory red-insert sight (part RFS from Ruger)

- replaced hammer spring and trigger return spring using Wolff Springs (used stock number 17110 "Ruger GP100 RP Revolver Shooter's Pak"). The trigger return spring also acts on trigger assy removal latch. This pack contains 1 each 9, 10 and 12 pound reduced power hammer springs (factory is 14 pounds) and 1 each 8 and 10 pound trigger return springs (factory is 12 pounds), allowing adjustment for lighter and smoother hammer and trigger actions.

The 10 lb hammer spring was choosen to reduce double action hammer pull (factory is 14 lb), and 8 lb for the trigger return and easier trigger assy removal (factory is 12 lbs). Note: the lighter hammer spring also reduces the single-action pull due to less pressure on the sear.

NOTE ! : tried the 9 lb hammer spring but got one insufficient primer strike /no bang (out of 200 rounds), so moved to 10 lbs. The misfired cartridge was a PMC .357 target load. I have read of MANY people that also had misfires with 9 lbs, but 10 works great for them. Also, I have on occasions gone back to the factory 12lb hammer spring, as the lighter hammer springs acutually cause the single-action pull to be too LIGHT !

- forward part of crane was rubbing frame right under forcing cone, when cylinder was opened /closed. Removed slight metal from crane, but more from frame under cone. Now it has about .002 clearence, no rubbing, and is polished to a high sheen.

- to keep hammer spring retaining pin from ratteling in the grip, put a small piece of heat shrink tubing next to it

- the cylinder to forcing cone max clearence was .005, good (measured w/shims at Lone Star Guns), but min clearence was 0 (cylinder dragged on cone). Due to the end-play, sent back to Ruger Cust Service.

Took 3 1/2 wks to get back- no charge (Rugers have lifetime warrenty)
Invoice said replaced pawl and other internal parts, and was test-fired (dirty when returned, which is normal). They did not use shims (I called to be sure & they said they do not use them anyway) Probably stretched yoke. Cylinder stop replaced. Endplay OK, but see next memo..

- contoured the pawl (took metal off left side) so it does not over-shoot the extractor ring grooves, left just enough metal to keep the cylinder locked tight when trigger is held back. Was a result of Rugers 'service'.