S&W 32 long

[mylifegsr]

I got this gun after my grandfather passed away. I know very little about it other than he got it in trade.

I have done some research but I was just wanting to know a little more about it.

S&W 32 Long
Pat. dates Feb 8, 06. sept 14, 09. Dec 29, 14
It is i believe the 4 1/4 in barrel
6 shot
serial # 300xxx

I have no intentions of firing it, I would just like to know more about it. For example, when was it made? How common is it?

 

[moss590]

I had one, it is a 1903 first hand eject, depending on the condition they can be very shootable. they defenatly not common, I have seen or heard of 4-5 of them. mine was passed down as well, unfortunatly times were hard and I sold it a couple of months ago...

 

[rondog]

Get some ammo and shoot it! It's a gun, it's meant for that. Won't hurt it any, just keep it clean and care for it, and enjoy it! Grandpa wouldn't want you to NOT shoot it, now would he?

 

[Radagast]

The 32 Hand Ejector was S&Ws first swing out cylinder revolver, introduced in 1896 and continuing in production until 1976. Yours is a .32 Hand Ejector Third Model, manufactured between 1917 & 1942 in the serial range 263001 to 536684. Heat treating of cylinders began at serial number 321000 in 1920.

Based on the above your gun dates to the period between 1917 & 1920.

As your cylinder is not heat treated, if you do choose to shoot it, stick to factory ammunition or standard pressure handloads that duplicate factory loads. Don't try and hotload that old gun. If you feel the need for speed S&W are now making the .32 Hand Ejectors direct descendent, the 632 in .327 magnum. Assuming the gun passes the revolver check out thread stickied at the top of the revolver sub forum then it will be safe to shoot, as long as you follw the above.

The patent dates for 1914 refer to internal changes including the first generation internal hammer block safety. Unfortunately this is not 100% effective as a fatality with a dropped gun during WWII showed. The current hammer block safety was introduced in 1944 as a result. Because of this it would be prudent to leave the chamber under the hammer empty if you keep the gun loaded or carry it.

With some 712913 .32 Hand Ejector and .32 Regulation Police revolvers made between 1896 & 1976, they are not particularly rare or valuable. In 2006 the Standard Catalog of S&W gave a value of $315.00 in very good condition, $386 in excellent+ condition.

 

[Old Fuff]

Before jumping to a quick conclusion, what material are the stocks made of (black hard rubber, checkered walnut, or something else), and does it have a round or square butt? Also is the serial number on the front of the grip-frame, or the bottom of the butt?

 

[mylifegsr]

The grip is a black rubber. The serial # is on the bottom of the grip. i believe it would be considered a square butt. I feel that the gun is in good enough shape to shoot, the reason I don't is because the last time it was fired was with my grandfather at the range. I may shoot it someday but no desire to right now.

 

[Old Fuff]

Since the serial number is on the bottom of the butt, and the stocks are made from molded, black hard rubber; I think it's safe to say that it is a .32 model 1903 hand ejector, and not the other possibility - that would be a Regulation Police model.

If you want more precise information on your Grandpa's revolver it can be obtained from Smith & Wesson. Details follow:

Information concerning historical letters of authentication from Smith & Wesson’s historian, Roy G. Jinks can be obtained from the link listed below.

In exchange for a $50.00 research fee (make any check out to Smith & Wesson, not Mr. Jinks) he will search through the company’s original records until he finds your particular revolver. He will then send you an official letter which usually includes:

A short history of the revolver model’s background.

What the barrel length, caliber/cartridge, finish and stocks were, as well as the exact date it was shipped from the factory – and to what distributor, dealer or individual – as whatever the case may be.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...catalogId=10001&content=25301&sectionId=10504

 

[mylifegsr]

Thank you for all of your help. I think it may be worth it to get that info from S&W.

 

[S&Wfan]

Here's what you've got . . . a 4 1/4" barrel Model 1903, fifth change from around 1920.

My 4 1/4" barreled M1903, fifth change (serial # 2459XX) was made in 1916. The .32 S&W Long cartridge can be quite accurate when you find the right load for your revolver too . . . though the tiny sights on these Hand Ejectors make it more challenging to get a perfect sight picture.

Here's my 'new" (to me) 1903 Fifth Change. They came in both blue and in nickel offerings, with either black rubber stocks (the most common found) or with wood stocks.

Hope this helps . . . and here's mine . . .

And yes . . . you can shoot the snot out of these little guns if they are in fine condition. Here's a couple of targets I shot with it TODAY . . .

Distance, ten yards from the bench . . . five rounds into each target. Homemade targets are 1" black squares on white 3-hole notebook paper.

BTW . . . 32 Long revolvers are picky about ammo, so you have to find the loads your gun "likes." Case in point . . . here's the WHOLE target shown above.

The top two targets are Fiocchi 100 gr Wadcutter. My gun didn't "like" this load for some reason. However, the two bottom targets were a different matter, with the round nose bullets grouping pretty danged tight. I'm sure they would have grouped even tighter but it was hard picking up the tiny nickel sights in today's bright sunny afternoon!

BTW . . . the three big holes on the left side are from the homemade target's 3-hole plain notebook paper that I print my targets on.

PS: I'm sure your grandfather would be happy to know you are still shooting his special revolver . . . I know that this would surely bless me one day if my three sons and their kids will do likewise with my guns!!!

 

[S&Wfan]

lll

 

[pinktools]

I've got a S&W 32 Long - 1903

I was just given my grandmother's S&W 32 Long. She passed away 15 years ago, but my brother has now given it to me. I'm in the process of getting the letter from Mr. Jinks, but I've noticed that all you guys here on THR really seem to know your stuff. I'm going to begin a gun safety course given by our local PD this Tuesday night - and I've hunted high and low for 32 long bullets. I'm going to the nearest BassPro (1-hour drive) tomorrow. I noticed in a thread that I shouldn't use high powered bullets because the barrel wasn't heat-fired until 1911. (Sorry if I've got the wrong terminology here!) The fella at BassPro told me they have 8 and 9 weight choices. ??? This is what I've gotten from the gun itself:
S&W-circled Trade Mark engraved on left side – I think bright nickel finish? No flaws. Six Round revolver chamber; Imprinted on left side of 4-1/4” barrel: 32 LONG CTG
Imprinted on top of 4-1/4” barrel:
Smith & Wesson Springfield MASS USA
PAT’D APR 9 1889, MAR 27 1894, MAY 21 1896
AUG 4 1896, DEC 22 1896, OCT 4 1898, OCT 8
1901, DEC 17 1901, SEPT 2 1902, JULY 7 1903
(I used a magnifying glass to read – all #’s may not be accurate)
Serial No. from bottom of pearl handled butt: 31084. Also it's stamped on underside of barrel.
No. stamped on casing after opening revolver: 11890 (Seems the 11 is larger than the 890)
It might be 11880???
So my question to you experts - should I get the 8 or 9-weight bullets? The BassPro guy also told me if I was using it for protection I should order the hollow-tip. A local fellow had the flat-head wad-sumpin'-or-others that he said were good for target practice - I guess I could get a box of those for the course and get real bullets for protection. Now that I've read about the barrel not being heat-fired I'm afraid to get the wrong thing. I've attached a photo. Can you advise me before I drive over there tomorrow? Thanks so much!

 

[Radagast]

pinktools:
You have a 32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903 1st change, manufactured between 1904 & 1906.
The first change part of the description refers to a design change.

Heat treating of cylinders (not barrels) allowed for heavier pressure loads. As yours predates heat treating, it would not be advisable to stuff a case full of powder and squeeze a bullet on top to try and maximise velocity.
Current factory ammunition is loaded with these old guns in mind, most reloading manuals (you may choose to load your own in the future, so save your brass) will have a maximum safe load set with old guns in mind.
As long as you don't try and turn it into a magnum it will be fine.

.32 S&W long is a relatively low velocity load, I would go with the wadcutter loads myself, as they will probably be heavier and have more energy than the hollowpoints. Hollowpoints require energy to expand and do more damage, in low velocity rounds it is not unusual for them to fail to expand. Hence my preference for the wadcutter, which is a flat faced bullet, which will do the maximum damage an unexpanded round can do.

There is a decent wikipedia article on the .32 S&W long here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.32_S&W_Long

31084 is the serial number, the other numbers are called assembly numbers, they were used to track parts in the factory and have no meaning once the gun is shipped.

 

[Radagast]

PS: Don't buy .32 Magnum or .327 magnum rounds by mistake. These are longer cartridges and will not chamber in your gun.

Also your gun predates the internal hammer block safety, so only load 5 at a time if you plan to keep the gun loaded. Leave the chamber under the hammer empty. That way if the gun is dropped on the hammer it won't go bang!

 

[pinktools]

Thanks so much for the info! I'll get the box of wadcutters here locally since you recommend them. And thanks for letting me know about keeping the chamber under the hammer empty - I really appreciate that. I'm looking forward to the gun class, and hearing back from Mr. Jinks. And I'll save the brass! Thanks again!

 

[Jim K]

You can also fire .32 S&W (aka .32 S&W Short) in that gun if .32 S&W Long is not available. They are the same except for cartridge case length, like .22 Long Rifle and .22 Short.

Jim

 

[pinktools]

Finally got my letter from Mr. Jinks - thought it was pretty cool. 1903 1st change shipped in Nov. 1905! Thanks for all your advice!

 

[Jim Watson]

Your picture is too blurry to tell, but are the hammer and trigger nickel plated or are they black or case hardened dark?
S&W does not plate the hammer and trigger, a plated hammer or trigger is a sign of refinishing.

 

[pinktools]

They look pretty shiny nickel to me! The hammer has an imprinted cross-hatch on it too. However, my brother (the collector) cleaned it for me before he gave it to me - maybe it's shiny because of that???