Savage 110 parts?
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Blue68f100
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https://www.eabco.net/
They advertise they do . I've used their accuracy barrels in AR's and they are very good, sub moa.
They advertise they do . I've used their accuracy barrels in AR's and they are very good, sub moa.
JFrank
Member
Savage shooters have a forum
Thanks! Just added them to my desktop shortcut.
Thanks! I just added them to my desktop shortcut.
Any ideas how to fix this?
That's actually 2 roll punches stuck in the bolt head.
First punch broke off in the head while punching out the roll pin that retains the ejector spring.
The second roll punch got stuck while trying to get the broken punch out.
My dad said I could @#$% up a wet dream.
Turns out he was right!
![20211027_204116[1].jpg](https://www.thehighroad.org/data/attachments/976/976672-695ae8082a11ba1da5144c8817d121ec.jpg "20211027_204116[1].jpg")
P.S.
Tip: Don't buy cheap Chinese roll punches!
That's actually 2 roll punches stuck in the bolt head.
First punch broke off in the head while punching out the roll pin that retains the ejector spring.
The second roll punch got stuck while trying to get the broken punch out.
My dad said I could @#$% up a wet dream.
Turns out he was right!
P.S.
Tip: Don't buy cheap Chinese roll punches!
Blue68f100
Member
Your punch may fave not been the correct size. The ejector may be putting pressure on the pin. Setup in a vice to compress the ejector. The try driving the punch back out if you can.
The punch was the correct size, it was the same size as the one I had before (1/16) that worked fine for the last 2 years until my friend broke it. He bought me a replacement and one for himself. It is those replacements that are stuck in the bolt head.
The ejector pin moves freely.
"Try driving the punch back out"?
With what? How?
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Blue68f100
Member
Apply some Kroil penetrating oil set it set. Apply some heat to the part via a heat gun to expand the part. Cool the punch with ice if needed. On punches the face head needs to be flat, true, and very hard steel. The cheap punches are anything but.
See if you can grab the part (pin) sticking out with a drill chuck and pull it out. If not use a set of diagonal cutters to grip the pin. Protect the finish of the part and use the cutters as a lever to pull it out.
See if you can grab the part (pin) sticking out with a drill chuck and pull it out. If not use a set of diagonal cutters to grip the pin. Protect the finish of the part and use the cutters as a lever to pull it out.
Thank you for all the advice.
Unfortunately I have tried all that you describe with no luck.
And yes, I did not heed my own advice and used cheap Chinese punches.
I have ordered replacement parts but I'm an old school mechanic so I kinda hafta try and figure out something to remove the pieces.
I have lots of tools at my disposal and I've used just about everything I can think of to no avail.
Short of going to a machine shop, I don't know what else to do.
Blue68f100
Member
Get you a solid carbide drill and drill it out if you have some way of securing it solid. Or someone with a EDM machine, and let them burn it out.
Again, thank you for your advice and tips.
The blue punch finally broke off so now it has 2 short pins that won't come out.
Yeah, I've got a POS China made mini-lathe and a quality drill bit but I need some kind of a fixture to mount it.
I used a propane torch to heat it up and that spray stuff to blow out keyboards to cool down the pins. Not sure it gets hot enough and I don't want to ruin the bolt head by over heating it.
Probably have already ruined it anyways.
I ordered replacement parts from Midway so I will have solved the problem that way.
Any suggestions on other vendors that can supply me with Savage Parts? The more the merrier so they say.
I've already got EABCO and Jack somebody on my desktop.
Can't seem to be able to find anything for parts on Savage Arms website...(odd?)
![5.26.20_006[1].jpg](https://www.thehighroad.org/data/attachments/976/976864-3b5878b5dd0befc473c3a035183b12cd.jpg "5.26.20_006[1].jpg")
By the way this is my blue 1972 C10.I saw your avatar stated a blue 68 F100
FROGO207
Member
Drop a steel nut down over the pin and mig the pin to the nut then use that to pry on two sides and pull the pin out. Has worked well for me in the past. Cheap punches may be hard but they are also too brittle when they are that small.
How much does a mig welder cost?
My Craftsman punch worked very well for years until my coworker broke it.
He went to Lowes and bought cheap Chinese ones, BIG MISTAKE!!!
I just snapped off the big blue pin so it was like the other one, ground them down and also ground down the ejection pin. Went to the range today to test it out and everything worked fine other than now I have to manually remove the spent cartridge. That's fine by me. I got new parts coming anyway.
beag_nut
Member
200 and up. Sometimes 'way up.
Then one must learn how to use one.
So it would cost one over $200 to remove 2 stuck pins plus a crash course to learn how to use a mig welder!!!
Thanks but no thanks.
Here's my solution.
![20211030_022309[1].jpg](https://www.thehighroad.org/data/attachments/977/977226-e1ae53fd1477c26049a3501e37b54e77.jpg "20211030_022309[1].jpg")
Attachments
![20211030_022300[1].jpg](/data/attachments/977/977227-ff61772d31a8265528a661dc711fcd18.jpg)
rbernie
Contributing Member
Last that I looked, a new bolthead was something in the vicinity of $25. I would probably put a new bolt head on the bolt body before I trusted that I didn’t grind through the bolt face itself.
When buying a replacement bolt head, you will need to know what face you want (223 class / 308 class / magnum), right or left hand action, and short or long action. From your picture, it looks like you need a 308 class (.480” rim diameter) bolt head for a right hand action, but I can’t tell whether you need a short action or long action – you will need to determine that from the chambering.
The bolt head will come stripped, which means you will need to also buy the ejector spring and ejector, along with the extractor spring, extractor detent ball, and extractor (if you cannot / do not want to reuse any of these items from the bad head).
When buying a replacement bolt head, you will need to know what face you want (223 class / 308 class / magnum), right or left hand action, and short or long action. From your picture, it looks like you need a 308 class (.480” rim diameter) bolt head for a right hand action, but I can’t tell whether you need a short action or long action – you will need to determine that from the chambering.
The bolt head will come stripped, which means you will need to also buy the ejector spring and ejector, along with the extractor spring, extractor detent ball, and extractor (if you cannot / do not want to reuse any of these items from the bad head).
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Thanks for the info.
I ordered 2 bolt heads from Midway a week or so ago. Both were wrong. One was due to me being an idiot and not reading the description correctly.
The other was, according to Savage, the right part but it seems it might have been packaged wrong. Sent both back and am waiting for the correct bolt to arrive (hopefully).
My solution to what I did to the old bolt head seems to be working pretty well so far other than I have to manually remove the spent case, which is okay with me as I did that when the old bolt head wasn't FUBAR'd.
It's a short action by the way.
Oh, and I already got the ejector spring/ejector/cross pin, extractor/spring/ball, so I'm good to go there.
Jackiesman
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Need some help with finding a source for a 303 Savage 99 barrel. My Dad's old barrel is shot out and keyholing the rounds. No riflings left, won't even turn the cleaning brush. I would like to find a replacement duplicate barrel. Took it to my local gun smith but his source isn't the partial hex design that the original I has, just standard round shape. Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.
BBBBill
Member
Duplicate as in factory original manufactured or just something with the same external profile? There are no new factory barrels available.Parts houses like Gun Parts Corp (aka Numrich), Jack First, or others might have used ones in various conditions. You will need to know the specific model series as certain specs changed over time. Some have V threads and some have square threads.
A matching profile can be turned from a blank by a good smith, but octagon to round is going to cost $$$$. Depending on your budget, you might call Turnbull and see if they can replicate you barrel from a new blank and add factory rollmarks.
Jackiesman
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Thanks so much for the tip. External profile, for astetics and weapon balance would be fine. First I will check the parts ho
Thanks for the tip. First I'll check the gun parts places. Actually want the external profile for astetics and weapon balance. Turnbull may be an option if I can't find an old one laying around. Good starting point, thanks again.
I don't come to this site very often, so sorry for the late response to the OP's questions. First, here's the best place I've found for replacement Savage bolt action parts: https://www.gunshack.com/savage-bolt-head
When removing the ejector from a Savage bolt head I use a small C-clamp to compress the ejector back flush with the bolt face. This makes sure that the flat portion of the ejector body is lined up with the holes for the roll pin. That way the punch won't strike against the edge of that flat and try to bend the punch tip while inside the bolt head.
The bolt head with the broke off pins inside it is sketchy at best so you should replace the bolt head on your rifle as it's the cheapest option available to you. You'll need to get both a replacement bolt head, and the "bolt head kit" which has all the springs and parts to assemble a new bolt head. When installing the ejector or the extractor plate it's beneficial to do this inside a large plastic bag. If one of the parts slips while being installed it can cause a small spring or tiny steel ball to zip off across the room, never to be seen again. The bag will save a lot of grief by catching the small parts so they won't go hiding.
After you change bolt heads make sure to check the headspace on your rifle. Adjusting the headspace on a Savage bolt action is simple (as opposed to doing it on other brands). This is an important safety consideration and shouldn't be over looked. For every aspect of replacing a Savage bolt head of adjusting the headspace Google is your friend.
When removing the ejector from a Savage bolt head I use a small C-clamp to compress the ejector back flush with the bolt face. This makes sure that the flat portion of the ejector body is lined up with the holes for the roll pin. That way the punch won't strike against the edge of that flat and try to bend the punch tip while inside the bolt head.
The bolt head with the broke off pins inside it is sketchy at best so you should replace the bolt head on your rifle as it's the cheapest option available to you. You'll need to get both a replacement bolt head, and the "bolt head kit" which has all the springs and parts to assemble a new bolt head. When installing the ejector or the extractor plate it's beneficial to do this inside a large plastic bag. If one of the parts slips while being installed it can cause a small spring or tiny steel ball to zip off across the room, never to be seen again. The bag will save a lot of grief by catching the small parts so they won't go hiding.
After you change bolt heads make sure to check the headspace on your rifle. Adjusting the headspace on a Savage bolt action is simple (as opposed to doing it on other brands). This is an important safety consideration and shouldn't be over looked. For every aspect of replacing a Savage bolt head of adjusting the headspace Google is your friend.
Jackiesman
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. This may be the wrong venue for this topic but I have tried seventeen (17) times to register on savageshooter forum to ask a simple question. Can't get on it so I thought I would ask on this thread. Does anyone know if oregunsmithllc is still in business, and if so how to reach them? I'm still working my 303 savage issues and their old description in the magazines seem to indicate that they may have the answer to my problem.
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