Should I Shoot Them?

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ccw_steve

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Well guys, in my last post I asked about specific reloading equipment, and afterwards I purchased what I need and finally started reloading my own ammunition! It is a great feeling, but now I am stuck with a major dilemma.

I have been using the GS 1500 digital scale that came with my Hornady LNL Classic Kit for measuring powder loads. The problem is this...the scale drifts constantly! I could literally place a powder load on the scale, pick it up, place it back down and get two readings 0.5 grains apart :what:

What I ended up doing was turning off the scale between each individual cartridge. When I was ready to place a charge, I would turn on the scale with the primed case already on the scale so it would zero to the cases' weight. I would then quickly dispense a charge and if it read correctly, I would use it.

Many times, I got inconsistent charges and had to make multiple attempts on each case.

So now I am very worried about shooting my first batch (50 rounds)....any advice?

I am hoping that the scale was accurate for a few seconds before it started to drift. It seemed to be accurate for about 30 seconds with the 100g test weight.

Should I try shooting one round just to see? I wish my darn chronograph wasn't on backorder :mad:
 
I never turn off my digital.

In any case, if it is believably 0.5 grains off, how close is the charge to max load?
 
I am using Bullseye on a 115 Gr 9mm, so my manual recommends 4.6 Gr as the maximum load.

I made sure each and every case read exactly 4.1-4.2 Gr before seating the bullet. I am just worried that the 4.1-4.2 Gr reading was not accurate :uhoh:
 
Let the scale warm up. Pact and RCBS recommened a 1/2 hour warm up before use to "settle" the scale down.
Air currents, electric motors on the same line (freezers, A/C, etc) florescent lights, can all affect the scales too. Keep the area around them clear of anything that could give a static charge like foam cartridge trays.

BTW loading max charges for your 1st attempts at reloading is not the proper way to go, always work up from the starting loads and
 
Well, unfortunately my scale times out after about 3-4 minutes, so the most warmup time I can get is 4 minutes.

If I were to place an item on the scale and turn it on, the scale would read zero to start with. After the four minutes, it would read 50 Gr (it just keeps counting up and up, very slowly). The drifting doesn't start for about 30 seconds or so....that's why I'm hoping my loads are good to go.
 
It's hard to believe a $27 scale is going to be worth anything, but that may be a rather unfair position to take.

What I would expect at this price point is that there are some that work and others that don't. They still make money, even if they have to replace x many scales that are returned as defective.

No, I wouldn't assume that it was reliable for any period after calibration, given the drift it was showing.

The question about load is a valid one. For example, a 42 gr rifle load +/- 0.5 gr (with a 49 gr max load) would probably be considered safe. On the other hand, a 5.0 gr pistol load +/- 0.5 gr (with a 5.0 gr max) might be better pulled to salvage components.

Of all the equipment used for reloading, the scale is probably one of the most important items. It doesn't have to be fast, but it has to be accurate and precise. Similarly, a powder measure (set using the scale) has to be accurate.

I always get these terms mixed up, but I think accuracy is a term used to describe how close to a true value something is, and precision is essentially the smallest resolution of the reading. You want a scale that is accurate to +/- 0.1gr with 0.1gr precision. (That is, a 100.0gr test weight should show either 99.9gr or 100.1 gr.)

I'd return the scale and hope the replacement is more stable. At the same time, order a basic impact bullet puller and salvage the components.

When the replacement arrives, do it again. Most of us have muffed something at one time or another. The important thing is to do it right.
 
I would believe the latter charge, going with the premise that a scale would be more accurate once it was properly warmed up. If that charge is below or at max, I would shoot it. (That said if it is not calibrated properly maybe not). If you have a reliable charge thrower, however, I again would be inclined to just go with it.

For example, with my Dillon 650, I will load a couple of thousand or so and check on the scale just to make sure things are fine. It always has been. (I keep my scale always on, and it has never lost calibration. ( I will calibrate it from time to time however... just because).

In the future, I would follow Ol' Joe's recommendation and make sure future reading are done on a scale that is "warmed up".
 
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I would suggest getting a beam scale to cross check your apparently defective digital scale. You certainly do not need to guess that your powder charges are safe.

Your powder measure should throw fairly accurate charges of Bullseye, but you do need to be consistent in your movements of dropping the charges.


NCsmitty
 
All right, I was afraid of this, but definitely better safe then sorry.

I just purchased a beam balance scale online, along with a bullet puller.

But how am I supposed to wait another week before shooting my very own reloads? :p
 
Don't have that problem with a 5-0-5.

Sorry couldn't resist. No I wouldn't shoot them. If you don't want to pull them, just wait until you get your scale issues worked out and weigh the loaded cartridges and see how much difference there is.
 
If you don't want to pull them, just wait until you get your scale issues worked out and weigh the loaded cartridges and see how much difference there is.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, due to variations in bullet weight and case weight (which are greater typically than the +/- 0.3gr scale drift he's seeing), this just doesn't work as a final check.

You could be on the heavy side due to bullet / case variation and be on the low end for powder. Or, you could be light on bullet / case and heavy on powder. No way to tell without pulling the components and weighing them individually. Of course, that's what he's trying to avoid...
 
I'm just passing it down the line.

I think I asked the same question a few years ago. :)

And you're correct, it seems like a reasonable approach until you realize that there is variation in everything, and the thing you care about the most is the lightest component.
 
I still reload the way I started. Lee dippers and check every tenth one on a beam scale. I freely admit it is slow, but I have worked it this way since 1962. Oh and never have I loaded max. I have always used factory for concealed carry or actual hunting rounds, every thing from Supervel to Buffalo Bore. A neighbor in Highway Patrol told me long ago I could always look at a jury and just say "I didn't know it would do that, it was the only ammo on the shelf."

blindhari
 
I'd pull them and wait for the other scale to start over. Yes, I know it will be a pain in the neck, but ruining a gun or your hand would be far worse. I've been loading a long time and as the years went by I've become more cautious, not less.
 
Are you throwing your powder or dipping (sorry if I missed that). If you are throwing, check your throw weight with your beam scale when it arrives. If you are getting within spec on your throws, shoot 'em. If you are still worried in the least, pull 'em. IMHO.
 
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