Shoulda got a blue one..

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Chuck59

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I'm like a kid at Christmas. I've had my old Lee since the late 70s or so, and it's getting pretty worn. I decided I "needed" a new press. So..
47432502852_0bd9ec9bb7_k.jpg 2019-03-28_07-49-29 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Yep, it clashes with the bench all right. :) Blue would have looked better.
47432504852_fbca0f9734_k.jpg 2019-03-28_07-49-42 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Drilled and tapped 1/2" on my mounting plate..
47485326001_b7a464154d_k.jpg 2019-03-28_07-50-07 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
And mounted it.
33608842098_3402661eb2_k.jpg 2019-03-28_07-50-33 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Now, I can take out two bolts, remove it, and put the Lee back on..or leave them both off if I need the workbench space.
I'm going to like this press, I think. :thumbup:
 
You can always paint it!

I've had my Lee Classic Turret for quite a while now, with powder and priming updates.

I always thought if I went progressive I'd get a LnL. I've looked at plenty of presses and I figure no matter whose you get they involve mechanical maintenance. Seems like you adjust the LnL when you need to and you buy after market parts for a Dillon. Once they are set up how you want them they both seem to work.

Congrats on the press! Keep us updated on how you like it.

Dave
 
Seems like you adjust the LnL when you need to and you buy after market parts for a Dillon. Once they are set up how you want them they both seem to work.

That was my thought after watching roughly 1000 hours :) of Youtube videos. The LNL seems to be made more for the tinkerer in me. It's sturdy and simple to adjust. What's not to like?
Well, blue would have gone with the workbench much better, but being a (ahem) frugal reloader, I couldn't pass up that cheap orange paint the hardware store had mixed for someone and they didn't like it. ;)
 
Well, blue would have gone with the workbench much better, but being a (ahem) frugal reloader, I couldn't pass up that cheap orange paint the hardware store had mixed for someone and they didn't like it. ;)

I can see why they didn't like it.

Now if that bench is in a garage. The only logical thing to do is to get an Orange Z/28 to match it! Gotta love a car that looks hot in that color.

As for the blue press. I have never heard anyone say bad things about them. All other brands get some bashing, but also have their loyalists. And the consensus seems to be that once you get them setup and working they all will work. It just becomes a matter of how long they keep working and what you need to do to address any issues when they act up. As all machines need a little TLC, I wonder if the "blue folks" just don't admit what they have to do since they spent so much, or if they're really really worth the extra money.

In any case, I'm sure that press will serve you well for a long long time if you treat it well.

I'd love to see posts and reports on it as it's nice to see what people do and real world accounts.
 
I think it is mostly attitude. For some you GET to tinker with it and others HAVE to tinker with it. Which category you find yourself in may advise as to which press is best for you.
 
Blue, red, green, who cares. As long as you enjoy what your doing, thats all that matters.

That being said, the LnL can and does test peoples patience. Mine has. But I think I have all the bugs worked out in about 50k round loaded, and countless more processed.
 
Make sure you coat the powder measure internals with some non-sticky corrosion preventative. Wax, like a carnauba wax or Hornady one-shot cleaner and lube or something like that. Don't ask how I know!
 
Make sure you coat the powder measure internals with some non-sticky corrosion preventative. Wax, like a carnauba wax or Hornady one-shot cleaner and lube or something like that. Don't ask how I know!

Thanks for that..
 
Do what they show in the video. Take the powder measure apart and use One Shot gun cleaner and dry lube (not One Shot case lube) and clean off the thin coating of anti-rust shipping grease. Make sure you shoot grease into the zerk fittings and don't adjust the pawls unless you have timing issues with the plate. Only a fraction of an eighth of a turn at a time.

Otherwise go blue. Buy once cry once unless a primer goes off and detonates all of them in a chain fire and shoots the tube through the ceiling. Then it's OK to cry another time. :(
 
Do what they show in the video. Take the powder measure apart and use One Shot gun cleaner and dry lube (not One Shot case lube) and clean off the thin coating of anti-rust shipping grease. Make sure you shoot grease into the zerk fittings and don't adjust the pawls unless you have timing issues with the plate. Only a fraction of an eighth of a turn at a time.

Otherwise go blue. Buy once cry once unless a primer goes off and detonates all of them in a chain fire and shoots the tube through the ceiling. Then it's OK to cry another time. :(

I've had it apart and cleaned it. Greasing the ram with it at the top fills that ring around it, and is probably a lifetime lube. I didn't realize I needed the PTX pieces, so have them ordered. Haven't tried reloading anything yet because of that. Timing looks good.
One of the things I liked better than the blue one is the way they get rid of spent primers. :thumbup: Other than that, it looks to me as if the primer system is similar on both.
 
Another trick I found somewhere on THR is to use a lock washer under the bolt that holds the shell plate. Keeps things snug longer, I still have to give 'er a snug down every few hundred rounds. I did have the bolt work lose enough to damage the spring that wraps around the shell plate, even with the lock washer in place.

I'm using a stainless steel lock washer...hmmm perhaps a carbon steel washer would have more tension? Anyway I check the play everytime I empty the bin of completed rounds.
 
Another trick I found somewhere on THR is to use a lock washer under the bolt that holds the shell plate. Keeps things snug longer, I still have to give 'er a snug down every few hundred rounds. I did have the bolt work lose enough to damage the spring that wraps around the shell plate, even with the lock washer in place.

I'm using a stainless steel lock washer...hmmm perhaps a carbon steel washer would have more tension? Anyway I check the play everytime I empty the bin of completed rounds.

Thanks, saw that on one of the 1000 :cool: Youtube videos when I was trying to decide Red...or Blue??
 
Thanks, saw that on one of the 1000 :cool: Youtube videos when I was trying to decide Red...or Blue??
Try your press out before doing most any mods. I've loaded 1000's upon 1000's of rounds on my LNL and never had the shell plate bolt come loose. Just sized 2000 pieces of 9mm over the last couple evenings and had to grunt the bolt loose to take the shell plate off. Maybe i'm just putting it on with a little move muscle then some.

You can clean the powder measure with about anything. Take the powder hopper off so you don't melt the plastic and hit it with some gun scrupper, brake cleaner or even bore cleaner, I prefer M-Pro 7 bore solvent. Watch the harsh stuff as it can effect the outside paint.

Keep an eye on the press timing as I have found that some shell plates time different then others and you might have to adjust the left pawl one way or the other just a touch, like more the Allen wrench 1/16 inch at a time then test. If your cases are snapping to hard and throwing powder out of the case tap the index balls in the shell plate out just a touch, sometimes one ball needs just a little more then the other.
 
Chuck, You may not need the PTX parts. You can set up everything and load without the PTX. I load several cartridges without a PTX. I use the die set expander for all.
I am looking at buying the M style expander for some calibers due to cast lead bullets.

Maybe I don't understand. Nothing new there, of course.. :) There is a universal die set expander? It looks like they are listed by caliber to me.
 
I've never bought the Hornady PTX parts. My Lee pistol dies have a PTX so I have no need for one and with 5 stations, there are enough spots for both the PTX and a separate crimp die if I wanted it. Another trick is to either buy an LED strip kit to be able to visually check the powder level in each case on station 4 just before you place the bullet on the case for seating or buy one of these:

jansjo-led-work-lamp-red__0098929_PE240314_S4.jpg

The light fits perfectly in the center hole to illuminate down the case for a visual powder check. Unfortunately, the price has gone up recently to $13 from $10. You can also buy a lockout die but it takes up a station. The lamp with the flexible neck also comes in handy because you can move it and use it to inspect hard to see things and it's not dedicated to sitting on the press.
 
Ooh.. I like that light. Nice color, too. :D I was thinking about an led strip, but it looks like a trip to IKEA is in the cards.
 
his is one of my favorite mods for the LNL AP. It's a big improvement over the crummy sheet metal round output bracket that comes with the press.
+1.
All the progressives have their nuances. You're the brains behind it and that's what counts the most! I did buy the LNL light strips when they were on sale and mounted them on the uprights and under the die holders. You have a much better chance of seeing what's going on. I'm still cranking out ammo that's better than I am.
Congrats!
 
I did have the bolt work lose enough to damage the spring that wraps around the shell plate, even with the lock washer in place.
Ah yes, been there done that.
I am about to try some purple Locktite (low strength)and see if that holds it.
 
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