Single action shooters, please show me your grip and grip technique.

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I shot my 4-5/8" barreled SBH again yesterday, with some 240gr LSWC over 20.0gr of 2400. I'm done with the plow handle. Ordered parts for a Bisley conversion.

It's fine with lighter loads, but with anything on the warmer side I have a difficult time getting and keeping a consistent hold. And the pinky underneath is just plain painful to me at much more than .44 Special loads. I've been struggling with this issue since I bought the gun. Time to try something different.
 
The grips make all the difference in the world.
The often overlooked truth of things. As you know I totally agree with you on this point, and I feel a custom or semicustom grip that fits the shooter to be vital in all revolvers for recoil mitigation, follow up shot speed, and proper trigger reach. They all impact how a gun handles and shoots for the individual shooter.

True custom grips haven't been realistic for me in the past, or rather I allocated my money elsewhere. Semicustom grips have worked well for me though because I was lucky enough to discover Nill grips. However, a recent financial change in my life has freed up more money, and I think custom ram horn or desert ironwood grips may be in my future. I'd rather have fewer guns that cost me more but function perfectly for me, than have more guns.

The modularity and replace-ability of revolver grips are IMO one of the greatest advantages revolvers have over many autoloaders. I wonder how many folks out there would see a vast improvement in their shooting if they just had a grip that suited them.

When it comes down to it, this simple notion is why I started this thread to begin with.

Edit: When I see folks in threads talking about how rubber Hogue grips make so much difference in shooting and is the best option out there, I cringe. It's a band aid, nothing more. We all have to live within our means though.
 
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The Hogue cowboy panels are an excellent choice and will tell you if what you need is a thicker grip. Their shape is excellent.
 
I shot my 4-5/8" barreled SBH again yesterday, with some 240gr LSWC over 20.0gr of 2400. I'm done with the plow handle. Ordered parts for a Bisley conversion.

It's fine with lighter loads, but with anything on the warmer side I have a difficult time getting and keeping a consistent hold. And the pinky underneath is just plain painful to me at much more than .44 Special loads. I've been struggling with this issue since I bought the gun. Time to try something different.

Mine is a 5 1/2” SBH with a round trigger guard. About the only thing I can shoot in it anymore are very light to mild mid range loads. It’s just no fun at all with anything more. If I put the butt ugly Hogue Rubber grips then a little more.
 
Mine is a 5 1/2” SBH with a round trigger guard. About the only thing I can shoot in it anymore are very light to mild mid range loads. It’s just no fun at all with anything more. If I put the butt ugly Hogue Rubber grips then a little more.
The Pachmayr Presentation grips solve the recoil and knuckle-knocking problem for me and aren't nearly as ugly.

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I use my SA's for hunting and wear gloves most of the time. I do have large hands, which caused me to search for a different set of stocks. Since changing out, it is now very comfortable to shoot even hot loads. The Herrett's on the 41 Mag are large, but they fit my hand, very nice. I found the stocks on eBay.

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Have you got a link for those cause I can’t seem to find them when on Pachmayr sight.

Go to this page and then use the drop down menus to select Ruger and Blackhawk or Super Blackhawk. Then a photo will show of the grip you are looking for. https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/pachmayr/handgun-grips/revolver-grips/presentation-grips.html

SKU: 03137 for New Model Blackhawk or
SKU: 03163 for New Model Super Blackhawk

I have a pair for the Blackhawk that I've used for my Ruger Single Six. If you don't mind the looks, they are a good grip. They are a good in-between size for an aftermarket grip, and they completely enclose the grip frame. They will keep the grip frame from getting dinged up that's for sure.
 
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I use my SA's for hunting and wear gloves most of the time. I do have large hands, which caused me to search for a different set of stocks. Since changing out, it is now very comfortable to shoot even hot loads. The Herrett's on the 41 Mag are large, but they fit my hand, very nice. I found the stocks on eBay.

It's too bad they don't make those Herretts anymore. They aren't classic SAA, but they are very good for what they are made for.
 
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Jack Huntington has done a bunch of Bisley grips for me and is absolutely first rate. Plus, they won't break the bank and they go a LONG way to improving your shooting experience. Here is a sample of his wok on various revolvers of mine.

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These custom grips were done by Rowen Custom Grips and aren't cheap, but they are also first rate.

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Those are all gorgeous MaxP, especially the first two.. The horn stocks in the last picture are dahl sheep, correct? Is Rowen the best source for horn stocks?
 
Those are all gorgeous MaxP, especially the first two.. The horn stocks in the last picture are dahl sheep, correct? Is Rowen the best source for horn stocks?

Thank you! Yes, Dahl sheep horn. Rowen seems to always have it in stock so it can't hurt to ask.
 
What critter species are those stocks CraigC, and are they Rowen? I know you are a fan of their work as well, so same question I just asked of Max above............

I believe those are Big Horn. They are gorgeous!
 
I believe those are Big Horn. They are gorgeous!
That's what I seem to remember also from a previous thread. I'm picturing big horn on a color case hardened Colt, and maybe dahl on a FA stainless gun.
 
Howdy Again

Did somebody say Bisleys?

I owned a Ruger Bisley a while ago, but I did not like it. However I have a couple of old Colts made in the original Bisley pattern.

Notice the original Bisley grip sweeps further forward than the Ruger version.

bisley03_zpsa2a15e70.jpg




The Colt Bisley grip is a little bit longer than the Colt plow handle grip. But I still don't try to cram my entire hand onto the grip. Most probably would, but I don't. This old 38-40 Bisley is not a monster, but the recoil is respectable. So I still curl my pinky under the grip to achieve that little bit of space between my knuckle and the trigger guard.

Gripping%20Bisley%2001_zpsbj7uel6k.jpg




Holding the Bisley this way, I can reach the hammer spur just fine and don't have to regrip to cock the hammer.

Gripping%20Bisley%2002_zpsgkzurfro.jpg




Ready to fire, with a nice gap between my knuckle and the trigger guard.

Gripping%20Bisley%2003_zps7wz5vfuw.jpg
 
Now let's talk about the big Smith and Wesson Number Three Top Breaks.

The Russian model had a very distinctive shape. In addition to the spur on the trigger guard, the Russians specified a big, pointy hump on the grip. In S&W talk, this is called a knuckle. The purpose of this big knuckle was to prevent the gun from rolling in the hand in recoil. It does this very well, the gun does not rotate in the hand at all, the recoil impulse is straight back.

Russian.jpg




Sorry these photos are a little bit out of focus, apparently I am not too good at selfies. Forget about resting a finger on the trigger spur. I wish I had a nickle for every time I've heard that one. It just does not work. In my opinion, the spur was purely decorative. Anyway, there is only one way I can hold the Russian model, I cram my entire hand onto the grip.

Gripping%20Russian%2001_zpsoehwfkga.jpg




The problem is, all of the big Number Three Smiths had further to reach to cock the hammer than a Colt. The only way I can cock the hammer on the Russian is to shift my grip up so I can reach the hammer spur. But notice my palm is in direct contact with the knuckle. If I were to fire the gun like this, recoil would kick that point right into the base of my thumb, and even with a relatively mild cartridge like the 44 Russian it would hurt. Trust me on this, I speak from experience.

Gripping%20Russian%2002_zpsiirfxkqw.jpg




So before pulling the trigger I have to regrip again to get my hand back below the knuckle. That way the knuckle will not dig into my hand when I fire the gun. I don't know how much the Czar's troops liked shooting the Russian model, but I find it to be the most awkward of the big Number Three Smiths, because of the darn knuckle.

Gripping%20Russian%2003_zpsjtk86kbd.jpg




The Schofield model was the next iteration of Top Break design with Smith and Wesson. In addition to the barrel latch being frame mounted, the Schofield had a gracefully curved grip shape. Gone was the awkward knuckle of the Russian Model.

schofield01_zpse1ff6025.jpg




I can curl my pinky under the grip of the Schofield and it is perfectly comfortable to shoot.

Gripping%20Schofield%2001_zpsqafls47t.jpg




But the Schofield model suffered from the same long reach to the hammer spur that the Russian model did. With my pinky under the grip, I cannot quite reach the hammer spur. If I allow the grip to rotate in my hand like a Colt, then I can reach the hammer. But I will have to regrip to get my pinky under the grip again.

Gripping%20Schofield%2002_zpsbj5nsuhv.jpg




If I choke up my grip on the Schofield, I still have a nice gap between the trigger guard and my knuckle.

Gripping%20Schofield%2003_zpsav3qagpe.jpg




And this grip allows me to reach the hammer without regripping.

Gripping%20Schofield%2004_zpsj7bwpucj.jpg




The New Model Number Three was the last of the big single action Number Three Top Break designs, and it was the best. Smith and Wesson returned to a small knuckle on the grip, but nothing as big as the one on the Russian model. This grip is actually very similar to the grip of modern S&W revolvers. There were internal changes too that helped make the New Model Number Three the best of the big single action Top Breaks.

New%20Model%20Number%20Three%20Blue%2031022%2001_zpsmbzqn4z8.jpg




Just like with the Schofield, if I curl my pinky under the grip of the New Model Number Three, I cannot reach the hammer spur.

Gripping%20New%20Model%20Number%20Three%2001_zpsujr2zoim.jpg


Gripping%20New%20Model%20Number%20Three%2002_zpssngradry.jpg




If I cram my entire hand onto the grip, I can reach it.

Gripping%20New%20Model%20Number%20Three%2003_zpshoesskuz.jpg

Gripping%20New%20Model%20Number%20Three%2004_zpshqozxmlq.jpg




I hope to be shooting this one at a CAS match this weekend, and I will try to pay attention to what grip style works the best for me.
 
Go to this page and then use the drop down menus to select Ruger and Blackhawk or Super Blackhawk. Then a photo will show of the grip you are looking for. https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/pachmayr/handgun-grips/revolver-grips/presentation-grips.html

SKU: 03137 for New Model Blackhawk or
SKU: 03163 for New Model Super Blackhawk

I have a pair for the Blackhawk that I've used for my Ruger Single Six. If you don't mind the looks, they are a good grip. They are a good in-between size for an aftermarket grip, and they completely enclose the grip frame. They will keep the grip frame from getting dinged up that's for sure.

The option is for new model Blackhawk. Will they fit a Super Blackhawk with a round trigger guard? Though I suppose it doesn’t matter right now as they are out of stock.
 
The option is for new model Blackhawk. Will they fit a Super Blackhawk with a round trigger guard? Though I suppose it doesn’t matter right now as they are out of stock.

My understanding is that the round trigger guard grip frame on the SBH is the same as on the BH. The square trigger guards are a larger grip frame.
 
I have big hands. I shoot my single actions best with shoulders dropped with strong hand on the grip and weak hand gently cupping from below. Depending upon which gun I have I shoot well. 10 yd quarter sized groups on an average day with the single six which is my best shooting single.

I’m pretty good shooting the goofy way that is shown in some of the old westerns though. Feet shoulder width apart angling strong side just to the side of the target. Strong arm out straight, weak arm actually tucked across the small of my back out of the way. This way I am a little less accurate but still pretty good. 10yd half dollar sized groups.

I need to work on form, but getting to shoot is rare these days.
 
Now let's talk about the big Smith and Wesson Number Three Top Breaks.

The Russian model had a very distinctive shape. In addition to the spur on the trigger guard, the Russians specified a big, pointy hump on the grip. In S&W talk, this is called a knuckle. The purpose of this big knuckle was to prevent the gun from rolling in the hand in recoil. It does this very well, the gun does not rotate in the hand at all, the recoil impulse is straight back.

View attachment 797730




Sorry these photos are a little bit out of focus, apparently I am not too good at selfies. Forget about resting a finger on the trigger spur. I wish I had a nickle for every time I've heard that one. It just does not work. In my opinion, the spur was purely decorative. Anyway, there is only one way I can hold the Russian model, I cram my entire hand onto the grip.

View attachment 797731




The problem is, all of the big Number Three Smiths had further to reach to cock the hammer than a Colt. The only way I can cock the hammer on the Russian is to shift my grip up so I can reach the hammer spur. But notice my palm is in direct contact with the knuckle. If I were to fire the gun like this, recoil would kick that point right into the base of my thumb, and even with a relatively mild cartridge like the 44 Russian it would hurt. Trust me on this, I speak from experience.

View attachment 797732




So before pulling the trigger I have to regrip again to get my hand back below the knuckle. That way the knuckle will not dig into my hand when I fire the gun. I don't know how much the Czar's troops liked shooting the Russian model, but I find it to be the most awkward of the big Number Three Smiths, because of the darn knuckle.

View attachment 797733




The Schofield model was the next iteration of Top Break design with Smith and Wesson. In addition to the barrel latch being frame mounted, the Schofield had a gracefully curved grip shape. Gone was the awkward knuckle of the Russian Model.

View attachment 797734




I can curl my pinky under the grip of the Schofield and it is perfectly comfortable to shoot.

View attachment 797735




But the Schofield model suffered from the same long reach to the hammer spur that the Russian model did. With my pinky under the grip, I cannot quite reach the hammer spur. If I allow the grip to rotate in my hand like a Colt, then I can reach the hammer. But I will have to regrip to get my pinky under the grip again.

View attachment 797736




If I choke up my grip on the Schofield, I still have a nice gap between the trigger guard and my knuckle.

View attachment 797737




And this grip allows me to reach the hammer without regripping.

View attachment 797738




The New Model Number Three was the last of the big single action Number Three Top Break designs, and it was the best. Smith and Wesson returned to a small knuckle on the grip, but nothing as big as the one on the Russian model. This grip is actually very similar to the grip of modern S&W revolvers. There were internal changes too that helped make the New Model Number Three the best of the big single action Top Breaks.

View attachment 797739




Just like with the Schofield, if I curl my pinky under the grip of the New Model Number Three, I cannot reach the hammer spur.

View attachment 797740


View attachment 797741




If I cram my entire hand onto the grip, I can reach it.

View attachment 797742

View attachment 797743




I hope to be shooting this one at a CAS match this weekend, and I will try to pay attention to what grip style works the best for me.
Very informative and interesting. Thanks for posting that. I've been contemplating a Schofield reproduction for a few years.
 
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