So you want the best firearm lubricant?

[481]

AH...but self-loading firearms ARE motors.

They convert chemical energy (via internal combustion of fuel) into reciprocating motion.

I never thought of it that way, but you are right. Of course, the "piston" is kind of a "one shot proposition". (Sorry, could resist the pun)

 

[Fast Frank]

My dad had a little metal tube of lubriplate in his gun cleaning box way back when I was a kid. I remember seeing it when cleaning the .22.

I'm guessing that was somewhere around the mid '60s

I assume he used it on his Luger pistol that he had back then.

I used that little tube of grease on several different guns over the years, and it worked OK, I guess.

I have since tried lots of other grease type lubes on a wide assortment of guns.

My take on the subject?

What matters is the thickness of the lube. Some greases are almost liquid, and others are very thick and waxy.

I haven't been able to see any big difference between mineral, synthetic, and food type greases at all.

So it becomes a compromise between the grease staying where I put it, and the drag that the grease puts into the moving parts.

My Kimber pistol, for example, doesn't like the slide being slowed down by grease on the rails. It just plain works better with light oil lubing the slide.

The spring in my AR carbine likes a thin layer of thick grease on it. It quiets the "Twang" and makes it move butter smooth. A thin grease slings off and makes a mess everywhere.

In my mind, there is no one perfect lube for all applications. It requires an assortment of lubes and experimentation to discover what works for a given situation.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

I used CLP since it came out and I use Mobil 1 synthetic red grease as needed.

 

[wickedsprint]

Been using CLP for years. Keeps the rust off better than anything else I've tried.

 

[RetiredUSNChief]

I've always used the typical over-the-counter gun oils found at Walmart and such and never had a problem.

Based on recent reading, I've just topped off my little oil bottle with the dregs from the 5 quart oil jug of Mobil 1 5W30 after my last oil change on the car. Presuming I never have any problems with this (and I seriously doubt it), I'll probably stick with this tactic for the rest of my life. Beats paying big bucks for a tiny oil bottle.

 

[doc2rn]

Where is Mr. Berryhill when you need him. That man knows more about wonder lube than anyone I know.

 

[Water-Man]

Some think the lube they're using is the best.

Others keep an open mind about it.

Then there are those who call another's choice "snake oil".

 

[Deltaboy1984]

Yep when CLP runs out I pick up a quart of Royal purple . Before CLP I used Hops gun oil or 3 in one oil. I keep a open mind and I clean with Ed' s Red.

 

[rondog]

If it rotates, oil it. If it slides, grease it. So I've always been told. And Lubriplate grease was issued for M1 Garands and M1 Carbines in WWII.

 

[MikeJackmin]

My approach now is good 'ol hoppes gun oil for general lubrication and undemanding anti-corrosion use, and Mobil 1 Synthetic where I'd normally use grease,

Can you (or anyone) expound on this? Can you give an example of the two different uses on where you apply them on the firearm? In other words when or where would you usually use grease and when or where would you use general lube for undemanding anti-corrosion? Am i supposed to be putting grease somewhere? (I use lube)

Most guns have a user's manual that describes the recommended lubrication for that gun. With few exceptions, I'll use Mobil 1 where grease would normally be recommended.

For example, I use it on pistol slide rails, and on the odd little spots in a pistol that get worn to a shiny spot by motion of the action. Depending on the pistol, this includes places like the top of the barrel, the part of the barrel lug where it bears on the slide release, and so on. I'll also use it along the bolt raceway on a bolt-action rifle. The idea (perhaps unsupported) is Mobil 1 is less likely to drain away or dry off. It seems to stay put pretty well, not as well as grease of course, but plenty well enough for my uses.

All the other blue-steel bits get wiped down with Hoppes, including the entire outside of the gun. Motor oil remains unpleasantly noticeable on the outside of a firearm, again because it seems to persist in a thicker layer over time.

 

[JohnBT]

"The link I provided is directly to Lubriplate and you can get a lifetime supply for what the syringes cost you."

I can't fit a 14-ounce can in my range bag.

The 3-pc kit price I linked appears to be at least as good a deal as the 1.75-ounce tubes on the Lubriplate site. Did you read Larry Vickers' comments on lubes based on his military experience?

 

[redneck2]

FWIW...I sell extreme duty industrial lubricants for a living. Food grade lubricants typically do not possess the extreme anti-wear properties (such as molybdenum) that non-food grade lubes have. FG lubes are made so that they can be consumed in a small quantity if some gets on a edible product. They have extremely limited EP additives.

I can't fit a 14-ounce can in my range bag.

This would typically not be a aerosol or liquid can. 14 ounce is the standard for a grease cartridge that fits in a standard grease gun.

Oil is typically the preferred lubricant IF it will stay in place. Grease is simply solidified oil with some anti-wear additives added. The amount and type vary greatly depending upon the manufacturer. Moly is an exceptional EP (extreme pressure) additive, but is quite expensive per pound. Many manufacturers add little or no moly. Just because several greases are listed as "moly" also does mean that they are equal. Moly can be as little as 1/10th of 1% and still be listed. Our greases typically have 11%. That makes a world of difference.

Also, the amount of RO (rust and oxidation) additive can vary significantly within different oils. Hydraulic oils are typically either AW (anti-wear) or RO (rust and oxidation) blended. You never see an ad for WD-40 that touts their anti oxidation properties. They say "for anything that sticks or squeaks". I guess if your gun sticks or squeaks, that's fine. In 50+ years of shooting I can't remember one of my guns that sticks or squeaks.

Lubriplate was bought out (for the naming rights) by one of major manufacturers. I consider them one of the poorest lubes on the market currently.

I would look for something that has strong anti-wear characteristics and also R/O properties. For the typical person, CLP (cleans/lubricates/protects) comes to mind. I would assume this is most shooter's objective. Lubricate and retard oxidation (rust).

For me, I sell a PTFE teflon based product that has incredible anti-oxidation properties. AFAIK, PTFE has the lowest coefficient of friction of any product available. That's what I use.

YMMV

 

[Potatohead]

Thanks

 

[Potatohead]

I didn't post this as a thread so everyone could chime in with what they use. I posted it so those who read it might learn something. Then again, if you've been doing something for 50 years there is probably no sense in changing now.

Frog lube is quickly being found to be snake-oil with some properties that don't mix well with firearms as it doesn't provide adequate rust protection.

One can only learn when another chimes-

Ancient Chinese Proverb


.

 

[HKGuns]

Redneck, did you even read the article?

 

[Tomcat47]

I have used about everything mentioned here including Royal Purple and Lubriplate... I think all of it is generally good stuff for firearms including some of the regular stuff like hoppes etc.

Kano Kroil is a great product and price reflects it... I use it to clean my firearms with and it does a fantastic job. The Kano Company actually makes two great dry lubes for firearms as well "Dryphite" and "Molyfilm"

As far as lubrication on my firearms I prefer something that dries and leaves a non wet, non sticky lubrication that dust, powder etc. does not stick to.

Dri Slide Improved weapons Lube is prob my favorite, and then there is KG-10, Ballistol, Rem Dri-Lube that do great job as well.

There is a lot of good products out there actually... pick your poison!

 

[Al Thompson]

HKguns, that article has been discussed several times here over the years. It was published in 20011.

 

[car15bill]

I'm with you on the kroil, nothing beats Kano stuff!!!

 

[jack44]

The BEST THING I FOUND IS ed red to clean to lube tranny fluid

 

[grendelbane]

I use what the designer and manufacturer recommended originally.

It is a very effective lubricant, and it is naturally sustainable.

It is sperm oil.

Of course, I haven't been able to get it the last few decades. In that case I substitute some thing else.

Usually CLP, but Dexron ATF mixed with canola works pretty well also, and is a lot cheaper. Dexron was formulated to be a synthetic mineral based sperm oil, and rapeseed oil, (of which canola is a variety), was originally used to lubricate steam engines.

 

[Bill4282]

If you can stand the flies, bacon grease.

 

[itsa pain]

being lubriplate is food grade I will use some for cooking French fries so hk guns wont get mad

 

[taliv]

i would not use kroil

 

[jakk280rem]

Gun-Slick graphite grease on revolver inards and clp on everything else.

 

[Sam Cade]

I use a mixture of Vagasil, beeswax and ground tiger baculum.