Once you learn to use aniline dyes and such you'll never want to use a pigment dye again.
A big +1 on that.
Once you learn to use aniline dyes and such you'll never want to use a pigment dye again.
you could try their polyshades product. It was for sale everywhere a few years ago, but I believe the popularity dropped due to a steep learning curve.
That stuff will make you want to curse your mother for giving birth to you.
UPTheIrons you sure do want to get that wood as bare and to natural as possible. The more uniformed the wood the more uniformed it will look. The stain will be able to penetrate properly and with out having the dirt and grease there to discolor the final look.
Just my .02
-Chris
Mickey - just my $0.02, but you're wasting your time sanding wood past 320. If you go to 320 then 4/0 steel wool, you shouldn't see any scratches left and that's all you need under the finish.
Well it worked out beautifully for me. Once you get past 320 you wipe on alcohol and it opens the pores, then hit it with the 600 grit to close them back up and to fill with even smaller particles of wood. I did this all the way to 2000 grit and the finish on the rifle now has a depth that can only be appreciated in person, as no camera can convey the 3d effect that this process gave the wood!jdowney said:
+1. It's better to finish with the steel wool and check closely for any stray scuffs left by the courser paper than to sand everything down to 5000 grit. You'll keep a touch more wood this way, and you'll find more of your errors before the finish is applied.
Also, with Tung oil, when you do discover a scratch under the first coat/s of finish, just sand the scratches smooth and keep applying the TO, it will even out beautifully in another few coats.
KR
Well it worked out beautifully for me. Once you get past 320 you wipe on alcohol and it opens the pores, then hit it with the 600 grit to close them back up and to fill with even smaller particles of wood. I did this all the way to 2000 grit and the finish on the rifle now has a depth that can only be appreciated in person, as no camera can convey the 3d effect that this process gave the wood!
No offense, I just wasn't clear enough in my first post. My .300 Win Mag Stock Project This is a link to 185 pictures of my rifle during the various stages, from the condition of the wood when I received the rough cut stock, all the way to the end where it is finished. Like I said, the camera does not do it justice, but it still looks pretty good to me on camera. I am not a professional photographer either, so take that into account when you look at these pics. I did the best I could with the available equipment I have.Mickeydim468, I wasn't trying to pick apart your post at all. I have no doubt that your process gave you a beautiful stock (I'd love to see the photos when you have time). Now I understand what you were saying about the super-fine sanding still not closing the grain.
KR
Hey Mickey, if you're happy with your results that's all that really matters. Fantastic looking pics!
I used to work for a high end furniture builder, and still do a little on the side, so I still tend to get a time-is-money oriented outlook on things