Strong safe---where

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Biggbay90

I did look on Sturdy's website for prices and weights.

Looks like a 27W x 23"D x 60"H non-fire lined safe is going for $1408 including shipping with drop off at your garage. Weight of this solid steel safe without fire lining: 632LBS

The 36"W x 27"D x 60"H (I own this one and it holds quite a bit) is going for $1798; the weight of this one: 780LBS without fire lining.

Hope this helps.
 
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Biggbay90,

It sounds very solid if you hit the sides as you would expect; there is a big difference between a 12ga feel and 7ga.

7ga is 3/16" thick so it is 1/16" less than B rated 1/4" thick body. It has 5/16" on the door verses the 1/2" but ... what's important about the door on the Sturdy is the framing around the perimeter and the support across the door which will make it far more resistant to bending and flexing than even a 1/2" plate door that doesn't have adequate support. You can double plate the sides on the Sturdy to get to 3/8" thickness if you like but of course that adds weight and cost.

The way I see Sturdy's design (and I don't want to put words in their mouths so correct me if I'm wrong) is that it is optimized for brute force attack (I.e., pry bar and ax attacks). Obviously, if power tools are involved, their design isn't enough but then again how much would be enough and could you afford it? Also, if fire protection is needed, you won't find better than what they offer in anything even close to the price.
 
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""I get the feeling that may be more then the Poster wants to spend!""

I agree. And look how heavy those are. You'd play hell trying to get it into your house, especially if you have a full flight of stairs to haul it up. I'd be worried one of those might just fall through the wooden floors of my house.

Get something you can actually get into your house, and spend a few bucks on alarms, making your place less attractive to burglars, etc.
Yesterday 11:52 PM

Alot can be said for this post. Multiple "layers" is the key and the layers I am talking about is 1)Burglar alarm, 2)"good" quality Safe and 3)that safe in a hidden location.
 
when you knock on the sides do it sound solid

I'm currently retrofitting a former ATM safe into a gun safe. It is 1" solid plate all the way around, and still sounds like a drum when you knock on it.

aiabdj is that b rated safe thicker then 7ga)

Yes

what's important about the door on the Sturdy is the framing around the perimeter and the support across the door which will make it far more resistant to bending and flexing than even a 1/2" plate door that doesn't have adequate support.

How much pressure is required to bend 1/2" plate?

Also, if fire protection is needed, you won't find better than what they offer in anything even close to the price.

Unless you buy one of the few gun safes that uses similar materials found in every UL fire rated safe that has ever existed.

So far the only people that I hear touting the greatness of fiberglass insulation is you, fiberglass insulation manufacturers, and a couple of gun safe manufacturers (none of which are building commercial safes or UL rated fire resistant safes).
 
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Just tuned back into this thread just now and just before logging on I opened up the BF to put something in there and I can say I too would like to know how much pressure it would take to bend my 1/2 inch plate steel door.
That's some real substantial steel for a gun safe or any safe for that matter so inquirying minds would like to know.
 
I too would like to know how much pressure it would take to bend my 1/2 inch plate steel door.
That's some real substantial steel for a gun safe or any safe for that matter so inquirying minds would like to know.

I already know, as I often use 1/2" plate for vault door frames. Our steel supplier shears it as well as bends it if needed.

I was simply asking if he knew, since he's stating that a supported 5/16" plate is stronger than an unsupported 1/2" plate. I'm assuming he knows how much pressure is required to bend both, otherwise he wouldn't have made that claim.
 
otherwise he wouldn't have made that claim.

I think people just like to defend their purchase. I have no idea how much pressure it takes to bend 1/2" steel, but I know I can bend it easily with my shop press.......I've done it on an unrelated project.
 
I can't get the image to post here, but it's just a brief chart showing the forces required to bend steel. You can see it here:

http://www.accurpress.com/toolingref_tonchart.html

Imagine a piece of steel one foot wide laying across two supports similar to a bridge. If those "bridge" supports were 2" apart, it would take the following tons of pressure to bend the foot wide piece of steel:

12 gauge: 2.2 tons
11 gauge (1/8"): 2.9 tons
10 gauge: 3.8 tons
7 gauge (3/16"): 7.5 tons
1/4": 15.5 tons
5/16": 27 tons
1/2": 85 tons
 
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Who is this einstein or is he a mathenmatician (you seem to know your stuff)----you said that b rated safe is thicker then sturdy 7 ga ($1408)--around how much do the b-rated go for--
 
Frank, near as I can tell you are the 'expert' of pretty much everything.

Although I really don't have time to spend arguing with you here because it is pointless as I have found from previous discussions, you have your opinion and the laws of Physics and Thermodynamics mean nothing to you.

I feel I am somewhat of an expert myself. I am a professional engineer with bachelors and masters degrees in engineering. I have worked for 20 years at the oldest continuously operating Aluminum production facility in the world located in Northern NY. This facility produced metal that was on the Wright brothers first flight, the lunar module, the Hubble telescope and virtual all of the high voltage power lines in the US (the technology ACSR was invented here.) We have around 100 furnaces at our combined facilities (none use concrete for insulation because that would be dumb) and for a good part of my career, about 30 of them were my responsibility. I have been on two different design teams for building two separate furnaces and one of which is in one of our facilities in Brazil; and, the Department of Defense wouldn't allow my company to send me or my counterpart to help with commissioning for fear of technology transfer. So when I say the Sturdy Safe's fire protection is superior to the BF and show the math to prove it, I'm not saying it as a safe salesmen or an owner of the company; I'm saying it because that's what the calculations show (based on Drylight concrete being optimized for insulation E.g., Perlite Concrete). And, the reason 5/16" door has stronger torsional strength with a heavy boxed frame around the perimeter verses 1/2" plate without adequate support is because now you have bend the frame as well as the plate, why do you think they put I-beams under the decks of bridges? Frank you have a lot of good information to share but if you don't know the answer just say so, you'll get a lot more respect that way.

Again, I don't sell safes and I don't plan to. The initial question was: solid steel safe with enough protection for pry bar and ax protection. With that criteria in mind, Sturdy Safe is the cheapest and best option available from everything I have seen. Additionally, Sturdy has real life people giving their testimony to their safes surviving actual: ax, pry bar, fires and in fact one of the customers had a professional lock smith open their safe and it proved to be more of a challenge than expected, here's the letter as shown from Sturdy's website:

MITCHELL 11/21/2009 10:12:05 PM: "So, my house was robbed. The (burglars) went at the safe with a crowbar that in retrospect, should have been in the safe. The (burglars) didn't think to use the impact drill or 3" grinder on the floor next to it, rather they tried to file down the hinge with a hand file. It seems they gave up after about 8.7 seconds...I couldn't get in and had to call a locksmith. One of the relockers had been activated by the (burglars) trying to pound on the combination shaft. This guy breaks safes every day and it took him 4.5 hours to get in. He said it was the best gun safe he's ever opened. He also opens jewelry safes and much harder things to open. It was entertaining to watch the opening and repair. To repair it, we replaced the hardplate and put bearing steel in the holes of the door."


So anyway, do research and make an informed decision for what choice works best for your situation.
 
Wow----great, thats what im looking for ---a safe that can slow/stop a thief with a crowbar/ax only ---im waiting for aia to respond with a figure----IM DOWN TO BF OR STURDY SO FAR
 
Frank, near as I can tell you are the 'expert' of pretty much everything.

I am an expert when it comes to protecting assets from fire and theft (as well as a few other things, but we're focusing on this area on these discussions).

My expertise is given away here on this forum for free, but often bought by everybody from regular Joes, to government agencies, to fortune 500 companies, to insurance companies, and anybody and everybody in between.

I am not an engineer. I don't know what a calculator or a computer says about how strong a safe is. What I do know is that I have worked with safes and vaults that have been attacked by hurricanes, fires, people, tractors, floods, and all other types of abusive circumstances. I know from these experiences how safes will hold up.

Although I really don't have time to spend arguing with you here because it is pointless as I have found from previous discussions, you have your opinion and the laws of Physics and Thermodynamics mean nothing to you.

Like I said, I'm not a scientist nor am I an engineer. I have no way of knowing if what you say represents the actual laws of Physics or Thermodynamics.

I do know that some of the things you say do not match my real life observations.

We have around 100 furnaces at our combined facilities (none use concrete for insulation because that would be dumb)

Houses don't use concrete for insulation because that would be dumb. Refrigerators don't use insulation because that would be dumb. Automobiles don't use concrete for insulation because that would be dumb.

We're not talking about these items. We're talking about safes. Safes are designed to do something that none of these other items are designed to do. Keep high temperatures out of a relatively small interior space.

Whereas "concrete" (which may or may not be the concrete most people think of when they hear the word) has been used for this task for well over 100 years by every major securitiy manufacturer that has been in the safe business.

They may not have built Wright's airplane, NASA's spacecraft, or the power company's power lines. They have however built the safes that every Airline, NASA, and the Electric Company use to protect their documents, and I can assure you they all use "concrete" to achieve that task.

So when I say the Sturdy Safe's fire protection is superior to the BF and show the math to prove it, I'm not saying it as a safe salesmen or an owner of the company; I'm saying it because that's what the calculations show (based on Drylight concrete being optimized for insulation E.g., Perlite Concrete).

"Based on Drylight concrete being optimized for insulation E.g., Perlite Concrete"

I take it you have analyzed an actual sample of the Drylight material in order to determine what it's made out of?

I'm also assuming that you have actually tested the two materials in question side by side to ensure that the real world performance of these materials matches your math?

I would assume that others have done this as well. This still makes me wonder why NOBODY other than a few gun safe manufacturers, use this material as the primary insulation on any of their UL rated products.

And, the reason 5/16" door has stronger torsional strength with a heavy boxed frame around the perimeter verses 1/2" plate without adequate support is because now you have bend the frame as well as the plate, why do you think they put I-beams under the decks of bridges? Frank you have a lot of good information to share but if you don't know the answer just say so, you'll get a lot more respect that way.

I know the answer, but I wanted to wait for your reply, and for a good reason.

There aren't many safes on the market that simply use a piece of plate steel with a lock thrown on it. The companies that use 1/4", 1/2" and 4" plate doors all "box" the perimeter of the door in some fashion. This is what holds the boltwork.

You're using your science smarts to make a point, but your point lies in some fantasy situation that doesn't exist in real life. You claim:

what's important about the door on the Sturdy is the framing around the perimeter and the support across the door which will make it far more resistant to bending and flexing than even a 1/2" plate door that doesn't have adequate support.

So name me a safe company that builds a similar sized safe as Sturdy, that has a 1/2" plate door without adequate support, where the Sturdy door will offer more strength.

I can only assume your list will be as long as the list of manufacturers using the "superior" ceramic insuations.

Again, I don't sell safes and I don't plan to. The initial question was: solid steel safe with enough protection for pry bar and ax protection. With that criteria in mind, Sturdy Safe is the cheapest and best option available from everything I have seen.

Underwriters Laboratories, insurance companies, the federal government, and most of us in the safe business disagree with you.

Sturdy safes are a great buy, and are built heavier than many of the other safes in their price range. They will also slow an axe and prybar attack, but they will not stop it. The AMSEC BF series will slow an axe and prybar attack, but will not stop it.

Insurance companies say that B rated safes are not suitable for the overnight storage of assets due to the risk of forced burglary, and these safes are solid 1/2" doors and 1/4" bodies.

Is a Sturdy suitable for storing most gun collections in a residential setting? Sure it is. But when somebody comes along and says they need a safe that will resist tools, they need something with some serious steel plate or serious "concrete" fill.

Additionally, Sturdy has real life people giving their testimony to their safes surviving actual: ax, pry bar, fires and in fact one of the customers had a professional lock smith open their safe and it proved to be more of a challenge than expected, here's the letter as shown from Sturdy's website:

Have you met these people? I see all sorts of testimony given by all sorts of manufacturers, and it really makes you wonder if a) these people exist, b) if what they say is true, and c) if they even know what they are describing.

Case in point:

I couldn't get in and had to call a locksmith. One of the relockers had been activated by the (burglars) trying to pound on the combination shaft. This guy breaks safes every day and it took him 4.5 hours to get in. He said it was the best gun safe he's ever opened. He also opens jewelry safes and much harder things to open. It was entertaining to watch the opening and repair. To repair it, we replaced the hardplate and put bearing steel in the holes of the door."

I would like this "safe tech's" name.

I also open some real safes. Safes designed to keep professional burglars out. I open many of those in far less than the 4.5 hours this guy needed to open a gun safe.

He either a) doesn't really open that many safes, b) was taking his time because he had nothing else better to do, c) was charging by the hour, or d) the customer's watch was broken.

It usually takes me longer to pull the tools out of the truck and put them back than it does to drill and open a gun safe.

im waiting for aia to respond with a figure----IM DOWN TO BF OR STURDY SO FAR

The BF will run in the low $2K range.

If you want an idea about a commercial B rate I can get you the numbers from the other quote we just had worked up. I won't be back in the office to get the exact numbers until Tuesday.

I do know that the pricing ranged from $2K to $3K depending on dimensions for a true B rate (1/4" solid plate body, 1/2" solid plate door) with a standard adjustable steel shelf interior.
 
Wow, quite a debate we got going here. And highly beneficial, educational AND entertaining to all of us.

One hugely important factor the OP may be overlooking is shipping costs. Sturdy Safe lives and works in the beautiful San Juaquin valley of California and would require substantial shipping costs to deliver to New York. And have you included the delivery and installation costs to get it off of the delivery truck and into your house?
 
Wow--it seems like a1abdj responded to all questions put to him and going by on the job experience which i think is more accurate---60h by 24d by 22-28w but i will also look more into the sturdy safe because i mention i do not care for fire protection ---but my perfect size would be 60h by 16d by 30w---somebody let me know---shipping to nyc
 
Wow--it seems like a1abdj responded to all questions put to him and going by on the job experience which i think is more accurate

I would take real world experience over paper calculations any day. I am a building contractor, and one day I was at the county pulling a permit. The plans reviewer wanted an ungodly about of nails in a 2x6 cleat that I had in several places on this structure. I told him that one 16 penny nail through a 1.5" thick wood cleat has over 230 pounds of shear.

Anyway, he wanted to see my calculations for such a claim. I told him I didn't have any calculations. I told him I actually nailed a wood cleat to a post with one 16 penny nail, and then stood on it. I weigh 230 pounds and it didn't shear the nail.

Adding all the nails he wanted in that cleat would do nothing but weaken it, because the more nails you put in, the weaker the block becomes. It will eventually end up splitting apart.

I'm a little off topic, but I have high regard for real world experience. I think in my trade, any building inspector should be required to work out in the trenches as an actually builder before he can inspect them.......but it's not required.
 
A building contractor---hi but i am looking for information on a great strong steel safe---do you work on them or repair them, IF SO THEN I CAN ALSO LISTEN TOO YOU---help
 
Amsec has a 11 gauge outer shell (or is it 12 gauge now) and a 16 gauge inner shell. Take a look online for video's of fire axe attacks on 11 gauge safes. Then decide.
 
Amsec has a 11 gauge outer shell (or is it 12 gauge now) and a 16 gauge inner shell. Take a look online for video's of fire axe attacks on 11 gauge safes. Then decide.

Chances are good that if your bank was built within the last few years, it has a vault door wrapped in 10/11/12 gauge stainless steel. Think a fire axe will go through it?

Most gun safes have no support aside from the steel shell. The AMSEC has a cast fill between two layers of steel. While it will not provide bank vault security, it is much more stout than other gun safes using a single wall of the same steel.

Even with that said, your safe is much more likely to have the door attacked than the body. Solid 1/2" plate there, so you're in pretty good shape.
 
""Sturdy Safe lives and works in the beautiful San Juaquin valley of California and would require substantial shipping costs to deliver to New York.""

ArmedLiberal: To clarify, Sturdy has shipping included in the price. I've also seen the BF safe on EBAY with shipping included, at what looks to me like a good price.
 
Albert Einstein once said "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

I have replied on previous discussion to everything you have said before so I really don't see the point wasting time doing it again. But I will respond to a few of your points.

Again, I'm not saying the Sturdy Safe is a TL rated safe and will perform like a higher end Graffunder, Brown or AMSEC HS series safe but I am confident that it will outperform most B rated or even C rated safes against a pry bar attack (due to the tight tolerances and door design) and especially the Chinese made safe you are pushing.

So lets stop all this nonsense of you running your mouth about ' how through your safe tech knowledge you can open a Sturdy safe with a pry bar only'. I'm sure the folks at Sturdy Safe would love to see it because I know they are laughing every time you say it. So here's my offer to you $500 or even $1000 if you are game to open a Sturdy Safe within an hour using only a crowbar by way of opening the door (I.e., like the video we see on the internet.) Of course Sturdy Safe has to be game as well but from my discussions with Terry, I'm sure he'd be thrilled to take up the challenge. For my part if you don't succeed in opening their safe, they can deduct what you owe me to clean up the safe after you are done making a fool out of yourself. So let's hear it ... are you game? Come on expert, let's start putting those words into action. This should be easy money for you according to you, your beloved UL and the insurance companies.
 
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So lets stop all this nonsense of you running your mouth about ' how through your safe tech knowledge you can open a Sturdy safe with a pry bar only'. I'm sure the folks at Sturdy Safe would love to see it because I know they are laughing every time you say it. So here's my offer to you $500 or even $1000 if you are game to open a Sturdy Safe within an hour using only a crowbar by way of opening the door (I.e., like the video we see on the internet.) Of course Sturdy Safe has to be game as well but from my discussions with Terry, I'm sure he'd be thrilled to take up the challenge. For my part if you don't succeed in opening their safe, they can deduct what you owe me to clean up the safe after you are done making a fool out of yourself. So let's hear it ... are you game? Come on expert, let's start putting those words into action. This should be easy money for you according to you, your beloved UL and the insurance companies.

Hmmm, I got to think about it, there really isn't much in it for Sturdy. So if you don't open their safe and owe me money Frank, Sturdy can use my money as a deposit for my next order with them which should be next summer. So $1000, let me know if that isn't enough to make it worth your while.
 
Sturdy has shipping included in the price. I've also seen the BF safe on EBAY with shipping included, at what looks to me like a good price

Shipping is expensive, but most manufacturers get a discount due to their volume that makes it a bit easier to deal with. Even buying locally, the safe still has to get their somehow. That shipping cost would be figured into the overhead and reflect in the sales price.

I would never buy a security product on E-bay unless you can verify that the company you are buying from is legitimate. Lots of people with unknown backgrounds operating out of mom's basement. We even had a guy right here on this very forum who was defending his E-bay store come in and call out another member who purchased from him by first and last name.

Albert Einstein once said "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

I think you're on to something here. I guess manufacturers keep building safes the same way because they're expecting the same results. Their way works.

Either that, or you're calling me, the majority of other safe professionals, and most safe manufacturers insane.

Again, I'm not saying the Sturdy Safe is a TL rated safe and will perform like a higher end Graffunder, Brown or AMSEC HS series safe but I am confident that it will outperform most B rated or even C rated safes against a pry bar attack (due to the tight tolerances and door design)

Now we're starting to see who's insane. You're saying a safe with a 3/16" body and 5/16" door will hold up better than a safe with a 1/2" body and 1" door.

This is the same thing I notice with various manufacturers. You too must own a safe fairy who sprinkles magic dust on thin steel to make it outperform thick steel.

and especially the Chinese made safe you are pushing.

I don't know exactly what that has to do with this particular discussion, but let's me address something I've noticed.

You seem to be intelligent, and claim to do some work that requires a higher education. Yet you're making claims about products that you've never even seen, have no idea what the materials involved are, and have no background whatsoever in this business.

I have to assume that you're psychic too.

So lets stop all this nonsense of you running your mouth about ' how through your safe tech knowledge you can open a Sturdy safe with a pry bar only'.

I could open 95% of gun safes on the market with a pry bar only. I'm not singling out Sturdy or any other manufacturer. I'm simply speaking the truth. Any gun safe will slow an attack, few will stop one. See the difference?

For some reason you're panties in a twist, and I have no reason why. I suppose the next thing you'll get pissed about is when I start talking about opening safes, that don't have a torch rating, with a cutting torch.

I'm sure the folks at Sturdy Safe would love to see it because I know they are laughing every time you say it

I don't think they are. I don't think they are under any impression that their safe will perform in a similar fashion to a tool rated safe.

No safe is fireproof (even though everybody uses the word), and no safe is burglaryproof. All safes are resistant, and only to a certain degree. Alyssa even says that her Sturdy safes could be open with a hand file, given enough time. That's true with all safes. Hell, convicts have sawn through prison bars using string and toothpaste and escaped.

So here's my offer to you $500 or even $1000 if you are game to open a Sturdy Safe within an hour using only a crowbar by way of opening the door (I.e., like the video we see on the internet.)

Whoa, whoa, whoa! What's with all the conditions all of a sudden? I never said I would do it the same way as the video on the internet. You may find it hard to believe, but there's more than one way to operate a pry bar, and certainly more than one type of bar.

I suppose you're going to get to choose the bar, the safe's orientation, and all of the other conditions too?

This is why UL exists, and rates safes. They test safes against the worst case scenario, so that you know your safe will hold up well in any type of attack. They don't cherry pick and stipulate like you're attempting to.

Of course Sturdy Safe has to be game as well but from my discussions with Terry, I'm sure he'd be thrilled to take up the challenge.

Why would they have to be game? I could come pry yours open.

If I felt I had something to gain from it, I could simply buy one myself. Do you think Liberty was game on the video you mentioned?

For my part if you don't succeed in opening their safe, they can deduct what you owe me to clean up the safe after you are done making a fool out of yourself. So let's hear it ... are you game? Come on expert, let's start putting those words into action. This should be easy money for you according to you, your beloved UL and the insurance companies.

I think I made a similar offer to another forum member once. He could put his $10,000 in the safe, and I would put my $10,000 in the safe. Winner got the contents.

He never took me up on it, and I suggest you stop making these offers yourself.

I don't need to open a safe in front of you, or on youtube, to prove my position. Any safe, up to and including B rated safes, can be opened by brute force. Others on youtube have videos. I have plenty of photos of burglarized safes. Any safe tech in your area should be able to recount stories. For some reason you can't grasp the fact that it happens all the time.

Truth be told, and I've mentioned it on this forum many times, is that most residential burglars don't mess with anything that's locked. You could have a $99 cabinet or a $10,000 safe. If they don't try to get into it in the first place, then it doesn't matter what you're using. I even suggest a reinforced closet over most $500 safes.

The question becomes this. Are you protecting yourself from the majority of burglars, or are you protecting yourself from a worst case scenario?
 
My offer is legit, I'll call Sturdy and have them charge my credit card and hold on to the money until you show up with a pry bar and open their safe. I trust the folks at Sturdy to see that you attack their safe in what would be considered a 'pry bar' attack with a device such as a crowbar. If you say okay, and they say okay, I'm on the phone placing the call but you also have to have them charge a credit card in advanced as well.
 
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