Technique to using Streamlight TLR7 on a pistol

[Browning]

So I recently bought a TLR7 for a CZ P10C. Anyone else have one?

I have a bit of a criticism of it if you’re expected the use the momentary on to identity a potential threat, shoot/no shoot, fire, turn off and then move.

I’m used to using the TLR1 I guess. The TLR1 has that swinging bar for the momentary or constant on. It’s also further back.

On the TLR7 there’s actually a tab that you have to press forward.

The problem is that on most pistols that’s too far forward towards the muzzle. For reference I’m in between XL and L gloves, so I’m not exactly Mr. Tiny Paws. Even still I have to rotate my hand over to hit it with my right index finger.

On the left side of the light I shoot thumbs forward. If I try to actuate it on the left side with my support thumb I have to slide my hand forward and actuate it that way.

From this ...

... to this.

Anyone have a technique for actuating the light on the TLR7 while remaining locked in? Or is there an after market tab that has the switch a little further to the rear?

I mean I guess at least you aren’t going to accidentally hit the thing turning the light on inadvertently, but I’m not really a big fan so far.

 

[herrwalther]

I just recently got the TLR-8, same thing but with a green laser added. I can reach the ON switch just fine with my trigger finger. And it is even easier to reach with the thumb on my support hand.

 

[Browning]

I just recently got the TLR-8, same thing but with a green laser added. I can reach the ON switch just fine with my trigger finger. And it is even easier to reach with the thumb on my support hand.

Can’t reach it with my index finger unless I rotate my hand slightly and while I can activate the light with my support hand, I have to slide it forward.

Wish they made an aftermarket extended switch.

Maybe it’s just a personal problem for me with this light. :Shrug

 

[Jenrick]

For the TLR-1 I built an extension out of an old punch and some JB weld (I have small hands for a guy). You could probably do something similar, just solvent-weld/epoxy/gorilla glue it to the switch.

 

[Browning]

For the TLR-1 I built an extension out of an old punch and some JB weld (I have small hands for a guy). You could probably do something similar, just solvent-weld/epoxy/gorilla glue it to the switch.

The switch is rubberized. I’d have a hard time applying epoxy.

Now if it were plastic ...

 

[Browning]

I guess the problem with the switch isn’t all that uncommon. Odd, since I have fairly large mitts. Maybe I need orangutan fingers.

https://www.reddit.com/r/gundeals/comments/8lulqv/parts_streamlight_tlr7_8999_shipping_from_primary/

Bought one, returned it. The size and brightness combination cannot be beat, but the paddles on almost every other light on the market are vastly superior. I'm hoping they'll rerelease it as the TLR 9 next year with a stremalined paddle instead of button. Until then, the TLR will have to do.

• • • •

Have one on a steyr M9. Looks good on a compact pistol, bright, small but still takes standard batteries!!, strobe if you're into that. Pretty difficult for me to activate with my trigger finger, much more comfortable to do it with my support thumb. I like it. Edit- oh and I didn't check shipping, but $90 is good. I paid $107 a few weeks ago

• • • •

I have the TLR-8 (same light with laser) and it's great. The reach is a little long on my P80 build but still usable.

• • • •

I have it on my Glock 19. It is an awesome light but I agree with everyone else that if you don’t have large hands the switch is hard to reach. I can palm a basketball and I have to use my support hand thumb if I want to use my regular grip.

• • • •

I do, long story short, it's a good light but the activation method sucks worse than ——- ——-. Ignore it you have long fingers or have large hands. If you're a normie or have smaller hands and you want to be able to activate this light one handed without breaking your grip (which is a pretty low bar if you ask me) this light won't do. Outside of that it, meets the hype.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?203628-Streamlight-TLR-7-amp-8/page3

I just got mine in. First impressions are very good, though the controls are hard to reach with my trigger finger and even my support thumb (I have to hunt a little bit for the activation button). Size is really nice, adds little weight, and the different rail inserts moves the light around A LOT. I would be really surprised if it didn't fit every gun with at least one of the inserts. The Universal 1 and uni 4 both for the M&P compact like a glove and push the light against the trigger guard and hold the light securely on the rail. I don't have worries about mounting at all. It is impossible for me to hit the switch with my trigger finger without adjusting my grip forward, and my support hand has to shift as well to hit the left side.

Overall impression: 4.3 / 5

The light is only losing points for the switch. I will start to take it apart and see how easy a user serviceable change of the back is if they sell different switches in the future.

I do like it’s small size and light weight though.

[off to look for a different switch]

 

[herrwalther]

Looking at the pictures again. It looks like there is still a fair amount of space between your trigger guard and the TLR-7. Is there another slot in the rail on your CZ? Doesn't make a difference either way. If the dust cover is polymer you can make a new one closer to the guard with a cross cut file and sandpaper. I did the same on my P99 for a Viridian light. I *could* cut another for the TLR-8 to make it more natural and comfortable to activate, but don't feel the need to.

BEFORE you cut another slot, make sure the opening on the TLR-7 is big enough for the trigger guard. Push the Streamlight closer to the guard and see if it can fit without too much trouble.

 

[Browning]

Looking at the pictures again. It looks like there is still a fair amount of space between your trigger guard and the TLR-7. Is there another slot in the rail on your CZ?

That’s as far back as it goes on the P10C, but it’s because of that protrusion on the outer face of the trigger guard.

That makes contact with the rear of the light. That’s why you see that space between.

There’s only one cut in the rail. I’m honestly not sure if that would gain me the small amount of space I need or not.

I could pull the bolt out and mark it and see. Also might be able to grind off that protrusion.

 

[herrwalther]

There’s only one cut in the rail. I’m honestly not sure if that would gain me the small amount of space I need or not.

I could pull the bolt out and mark it and see. Also might be able to grind off that protrusion.

I dealt with the same kind of rail on my Walther. I am not very mechanically inclined and it was easy enough for me to do. I filed away most of it with the nail file on my Leatherman tool. As far as the protrusion, a Dremel with a small head grinding wheel that should work well on such a small space. When I made the rail cut on my Walther, I put a small dab of white out correction fluid on the end of the bolt and fed it through the Viridian. Where it made a mark on the dust cover was where I cut the new rail slot.

As far as I can tell on the TLR-7/8, the key plates they use won't make a difference once you make the changes to the CZ.